Threw in an Android deck in my V....I like it!
#21
Recently installed a amp to retain the factory subwoofer. These can be found very cheap online.I choose the alpine 190u which puts out quite abit of bass on the factory sub.Originally I tried using a rca to line level input on the alpine but the output was too low.I then wired it to the rear speakers and had full power.Its very small and the factory amp wiring is right there to do everything.
#23
Question I could use a little help. I am doing essentially the same thing with the dash unit right now. The issue is I have no sound. The amp has power, the outputs are wired correctly. I was thinking that this had to do with either the Serial 2 data lines (purple) or the theft deterrent system. I have looked around and cannot find the answer I need to get the amp to turn on. everything on the radio works but that. ANy help is appreciated.
#25
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
The OEM (BLOSE) amp uses class II for the volume control eq, balance and fader.
The audio inputs are differential, so if you are using a single ended output, you need a single end to differential output to drive the BLOSE, and the class II signal from the OEM volume control.
Thank GM and DELCO for the screw job.
The audio inputs are differential, so if you are using a single ended output, you need a single end to differential output to drive the BLOSE, and the class II signal from the OEM volume control.
Thank GM and DELCO for the screw job.
#26
I didnt want to spend alot on a harness to retain the onstar and use the factory amp.I knew i had spare connectors for many gm applications that i could repin.Unplug the amp and just ran new speaker lines upto the new radio.I bridged the center channel and it sounded pretty good.the alpine mono amp for the factory subwoofer was a easy install in the trunk at that point and pumped out much better bass than the factory amp..more than the sub could handle
#28
Don't buy a harness or an amp unless you are changing the speakers out. Run 4 new speaker lines from the new radio to the driver side rear corner of the trunk. Unplug the factory amp and tap into the factory speaker lines. Be sure to connect the front tweeters to their respected front door speaker. Bridge the center channel if you like or leave it disconnected. I barely noticed any output change from the bose amp VS running just off the new radio speaker output. But you definitely need an aftermarket amp to run the factory subwoofer....and it doesn't need much power to bump decent bass. That lil alpine mono amp used was tickling the subs max capabilities on some songs and overall the car was a surprisingly good clear sounding setup. I thoroughly enjoyed listening to music in the V for very little money invested. Just my 2 cents.
#29
TECH Addict
iTrader: (13)
Remember that if you are using the output from the Bose sub channel, it cuts bass as you increase volume. I think it may do this on all the channels but am not certain. I got an Audiocontrol processor to offset that with good results. Will be putting in a Pioneer DD unit soon to do away with that and clean up the system.
#30
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
I modified a PAC adapter for the BOSE system to use the OEM headunit to an external amplifier.
For better bandwidth I replaced the transformers with a BURR BROWN IC that converts differential to single ended.
I run this into a true 5.1 decoder.
My intention was not to make my V and audio shrine, but make it sound a lot better.
For better bandwidth I replaced the transformers with a BURR BROWN IC that converts differential to single ended.
I run this into a true 5.1 decoder.
My intention was not to make my V and audio shrine, but make it sound a lot better.