Bad Coolant Temp Sensor? Engine Hot - AC Off
#1
Bad Coolant Temp Sensor? Engine Hot - AC Off
On cold start the car starts rough. The error message pops up that "Engine Hot - AC Off." Also, the Coolant temperature reads blank and needle reads cold or fail.
Could this be a bad coolant temperature sensor or can it be that and/or something else as well?
In the 'am' I will go to GM parts department to get part "ACDELCO 2134514 #19236568 and I believe 20-n.m. torque should do the trick. Shouldn't be more than $20 but with the dealer ya never know. Doesn't seem available in stores and I need the car working yesterday so Amazon Prime won't work. :bonkers:
I will post up results after the install to see if the coolant sensor is the cause. Hopefully not a bandage for whatever problem but the cure!
Video of start:
Blank Temp indications:
Engine Hot - AC Off
Could this be a bad coolant temperature sensor or can it be that and/or something else as well?
In the 'am' I will go to GM parts department to get part "ACDELCO 2134514 #19236568 and I believe 20-n.m. torque should do the trick. Shouldn't be more than $20 but with the dealer ya never know. Doesn't seem available in stores and I need the car working yesterday so Amazon Prime won't work. :bonkers:
I will post up results after the install to see if the coolant sensor is the cause. Hopefully not a bandage for whatever problem but the cure!
Video of start:
Blank Temp indications:
Engine Hot - AC Off
#2
My Cadillac dealer gave me 12608814 for $34.84 which looks like the same part. Prime members luck out and get it for $7.99 and free one day shipping too bad I couldn't wait.
amazon link:
'not sure what brand this is.
Advance had an aftermarket company, BWD with part WT5132 $22.99
I threw it in and I'm afraid I might have to take the car somewhere to clear the code first for it to come back online. OBD reader needed I think too.
Edit: Just got the Innova 3100j, should work pretty good.
amazon link:
'not sure what brand this is.
Advance had an aftermarket company, BWD with part WT5132 $22.99
I threw it in and I'm afraid I might have to take the car somewhere to clear the code first for it to come back online. OBD reader needed I think too.
Edit: Just got the Innova 3100j, should work pretty good.
#3
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
If you need to clear a code in a pinch just disconnect the battery for at least 10 mins. If you're working on electrical stuff that's generally advised anyway. You're lucky that sensor is easy to get to. Should be a quick fix. If the sensor itself wasn't the problem, I would check the ground wire on it.
#6
Battery actually pretty new. I'd say maybe a year old, if that.
I've replaced the sensor and cleared the codes. We'll see if it comes back. Only thing that will NOT go away is the B0092
List of codes:
- OBD2 -
P0116-00, FSC and Pending? (ECT Sensor Circuit Range/Performance)
- SRS - (bunch in history)
B0092, Current (Passenger Presence System Performance)
U1016, History (Lost Communication with Powertrain Control Module)
B0101, History (Replace Front Impact Sensor 1)
U1096, History (Lost Communication with Instrument Cluster)
- ABS -
U1016, History (Loss of Communication with PCM)
I've replaced the sensor and cleared the codes. We'll see if it comes back. Only thing that will NOT go away is the B0092
List of codes:
- OBD2 -
P0116-00, FSC and Pending? (ECT Sensor Circuit Range/Performance)
- SRS - (bunch in history)
B0092, Current (Passenger Presence System Performance)
U1016, History (Lost Communication with Powertrain Control Module)
B0101, History (Replace Front Impact Sensor 1)
U1096, History (Lost Communication with Instrument Cluster)
- ABS -
U1016, History (Loss of Communication with PCM)
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#9
TECH Addict
iTrader: (13)
I missed that the engine was off, makes total sense.
Main grounds I am thinking of are the battery ground, PCM ground, and the ground straps to the heads/engine (chassis grounds). Positive battery cable and fuse block are worth a look too, make sure they are clean and tight. Even slight corrosion can cause difficult to track down gremlins. Lots of intermittent issues get caused by current drops from weak batteries, bad connections, etc...which can look the same.
Main grounds I am thinking of are the battery ground, PCM ground, and the ground straps to the heads/engine (chassis grounds). Positive battery cable and fuse block are worth a look too, make sure they are clean and tight. Even slight corrosion can cause difficult to track down gremlins. Lots of intermittent issues get caused by current drops from weak batteries, bad connections, etc...which can look the same.
#10
Yes, all the main grounds have been thoroughly cleaned and Electro greased; recently. Just trying to remember the exact location of that parts ground. I think it's the one underneath the intake air box.