Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

Trans mounts

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Feb 14, 2019 | 12:08 PM
  #1  
84FSP's Avatar
Thread Starter
Launching!
5 Year Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 216
Likes: 25
Default Trans mounts

Is there anything terribly special about the CTS V trans mount that means I have to run the exact match OE? I'm thinking of specifics around it having different dimensional requirements than other LS cars as an example. From looking I see a couple slightly different looking styles and it's hard to compare dimensions/scale without holding them.

I see a variety of options, OEM are pricey ~200. I see aftermarket OE styles for ~50 but they seem to be more generic fitment. The seem to be a variety of affordable poly performance mounts in generic LS fitments available ~50. I see aftermarket poly specific to V fit from folks forum sponsors for ~160.

I had tracked down good deals on OE motor mounts and have those ready to go in. For what I have in them I won't be upset if they have to be upgraded later to something stiffer. I'm trying to balance manners and performance as a general statement in a daily driver that should be 45-480ish WHP (will tell you what it dynos shortly). LS2 and T56 are the drive train in question on a 2006 V.


What are the rest of you guys doing on your cars? Any brand or style I should specifically avoid?
Reply
Old Feb 14, 2019 | 01:48 PM
  #2  
BudRacing's Avatar
TECH Junkie
15 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Shutterbug
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,542
Likes: 5
From: Dunwoody, GA
Default

The general rule is to keep your motor mounts stiffer than or equal to your trans mount.

A poly trans mount and OEM rubber motor mounts is a recipe for some potential driveline vibes (so say the platform experts). The new Creative Steel motor mount design allows some side to side movement, which could potentially play nice with OEM motor mounts, but I don't know that they could say that for sure as experience with that combo is limited. Another option would be to try the Revshift poly insert, that corrects some of the sag that occurs in older stock trans mounts which does inhibit some movement, but again, may also introduce vibrations.

Ponying up for a stock trans mount may be the most sure-fire way to ensure that your mounts are compatible.
Reply
Old Feb 15, 2019 | 09:44 AM
  #3  
Byron's Avatar
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 669
Likes: 103
From: Dubai
Default

I've run stock and it was good until the rubber sagged.

I did the old style CS mount and it was a hair tall and caused vibes until I realigned my shaft.

I did the revshift insert and it was awesome sauce until the rubber of the used stock mount dry rotted.

I'm currently using UMI engine mounts and the new style cs mount and other than having to again align the drive shaft for the slightly taller mount, I have no complaints. It's rebuildable also.

My results were the same for both transmissions I've had in the car, the tranzilla and the original T56.

-Byron
Reply
Old Feb 15, 2019 | 09:57 AM
  #4  
ls1247's Avatar
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 2,413
Likes: 7
From: Greenville SC
Default

Originally Posted by Byron
I've run stock and it was good until the rubber sagged.

I did the old style CS mount and it was a hair tall and caused vibes until I realigned my shaft.

I did the revshift insert and it was awesome sauce until the rubber of the used stock mount dry rotted.

I'm currently using UMI engine mounts and the new style cs mount and other than having to again align the drive shaft for the slightly taller mount, I have no complaints. It's rebuildable also.

My results were the same for both transmissions I've had in the car, the tranzilla and the original T56.

-Byron
I've tried most of these combos as well but the best street combination I've found so far on a stock, daily driver are the factory motor mounts, a window welded factory transmission mount and factory rear sub-frame bushings. I'm using the cheapo factory replacement motor mounts and after 40k miles, they're still holding up.
Reply
Old Feb 15, 2019 | 10:11 AM
  #5  
BudRacing's Avatar
TECH Junkie
15 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Shutterbug
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,542
Likes: 5
From: Dunwoody, GA
Default

Originally Posted by ls1247
I've tried most of these combos as well but the best street combination I've found so far on a stock, daily driver are the factory motor mounts, a window welded factory transmission mount and factory rear sub-frame bushings. I'm using the cheapo factory replacement motor mounts and after 40k miles, they're still holding up.
How much did you find the poly subframe bushings to lower the rear diff? It's a factor I hadn't taken into too much consideration until now.
Reply
Old Feb 15, 2019 | 04:52 PM
  #6  
ls1247's Avatar
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 2,413
Likes: 7
From: Greenville SC
Default

Originally Posted by BudRacing
How much did you find the poly subframe bushings to lower the rear diff? It's a factor I hadn't taken into too much consideration until now.
I don't understand the question BudRacing....
Reply
Old Feb 19, 2019 | 02:29 PM
  #7  
BudRacing's Avatar
TECH Junkie
15 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Shutterbug
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,542
Likes: 5
From: Dunwoody, GA
Default

Originally Posted by ls1247
I don't understand the question BudRacing....
It's been a while since I've seen the stock bushings in a cradle, so I looked up some photos and now I'm redacting that thought. Nevermind!
Reply




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:18 AM.