Dreamin

This mod turns off the DRLs and has no known side effects. Your parking brake light operates normally. Your turn signals work. The regular parking lights work. It is very easy to do, and takes less than an hour.

***Standard disclaimers apply: I assume no responsibilty for damage to you or your car. Do this at your own risk.***

Read the following background info before getting started: http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/disdrl.html
Some of my step are copied from this writeup, it's very good.


Step 1 (optional): Go to www.gmpartdirect.com and order a new DRL module. Part #25721769 --$28 delivered. This way your have the original module when you sell your car, and you dont have to cut your wiring harness.



Step 2: Modify the new module. Remove front cover, using flat blade screwdriver to pry tabs out. The board (PCB) slides out.





Step 3: Cut the top row, center pin - Pin "H" - see other writeup. Cut the pin completely off - i.e. cut it right next to black plastic support.



Step 4: Push PCB back in, reattach front cover.


Step 5: To access the module you need to remove the lower plastic kick panel that is located above where the drivers feet normally are. You will need to open the drivers door, kneel in to the car and put you head in the footwell area. The panel is black and is held on by four phillips screws. Remove the four screws and the panel drops down.



Step 6: Panel lowered, unclip the wire that goes to the courtesy light in this panel, and move the panel out of the way.



Step 7: With the panel out of the way you can access the DRL module. Look up from the footwell area (yep, gotta get your head in there). Look straight up, in line with the OBD port. The module is not bolted down. Snake your hand up there and simply pull it off to unclip it.



Step 8: Bring the module down into view. The wires are long enough so it will hang down into the footwell. Unclip wiring harness, you can use your finger, a screwdriver is not required.



Step 9: Swap with the modifed module.


Step 10: Snake the module back up there, clip it on, reattach courtesy light, and reinstall the kick panel.


That's it... enjoy your new !DRL option.

TTopJohn

that's awesome. Filing it away just in case I end up buying a CTS.

Vettin Man

On a Corvette all you have to do is remove a fuse, takes about three seconds. Guess the Caddy guys like their DRLs more.

Schmalgar

Waaaay old thread, I know... But does anyone know if this will help prolong the life of the running light/blinker bulbs? Had another go out yesterday. Soooooooooo damn irritating! I've had this TA 6 months and I'm already on bulb change number 4. I bet I went through 30 fricken bulbs during the 7 years I had my previous TA...

Stepside

Hmmm, I like my orange DRLs. Kinda "accents the car"
For the guy with blown bulbs . . .

You have to many 'queertrons' in the circuit.


What's a 'Queertron'??

Well,

it's an electron . . .

that goes around . .

and blows bulbs.

Seriously, do a search for a higher wattage bulb. It would be a similar part #.
Check the bulb Specs. for amount of watts, amps/volts

nikon

iTrader: (2)

I had a leak in my camaros turn signal, water would get on the bulb, bulb would get hot, bulb would blow....make sure everything is sealed up tight...or you could try switching to led.

Schmalgar

Roger that, yeah I know that's a common problem, I've seen a few threads about sealing up the light housing... But I rarely drive the TA in rain, and this time it blew out out a nice bright sunny day. I think it might be the socket. It's pretty nasty looking. I guess I need to try replacing that next.

I am just hoping that by preventing it from running all the time, there will be less heat related issues, and less/slower damage to the socket...