Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

The fix for the CTS-V rear

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Old 07-17-2012 | 02:50 PM
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I am very happy with my 8.8 conversion. Picked up my own 03 Cobra diff and got the partial kit from Creative Steel. It's nice and solid now.
Old 08-26-2012 | 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by ls6ctsv
This is great news. I can't wait to see your package.
(sent you a PM)
That....didn't sound good! Lol...
Old 09-16-2013 | 07:23 PM
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For those that have bought the partial kit from creative steel? do you have to buy axles and cv's with mounting brackets or can I buy just brackets?
Old 09-16-2013 | 07:33 PM
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Wait nvm ignore post I just had to look on the site
Old 02-19-2015 | 10:12 PM
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For the guys that did the 8.8 out of the cobra. How hard was it to do??
Old 02-20-2015 | 09:40 PM
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I have a full DIY thread on here about it. Search for DIY 8.8
Old 02-23-2015 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Kswish74
For the guys that did the 8.8 out of the cobra. How hard was it to do??
And how much about?
Old 02-23-2015 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 54inches
i have a full diy thread on here about it. Search for diy 8.8
...............
Old 02-24-2015 | 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 54inches
I have a full DIY thread on here about it. Search for DIY 8.8
Here's the thread of interest - https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...ighlight=cobra. Lots of good info in there, whether you're trying to go the DIY route or buying the kit from Creative Steel.
Old 07-03-2017 | 01:46 PM
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okay guys, read tons.. holding off on the 8.8 for a little but trying to make due with what i have until then.

i plan on replacing the replacing the rear diff bushing with the red version. with that is it worth the extra money to add the bmr pinion brace or is that redundant?

also is it worth it to add the bmr anti wheel hop kit with the bar and bushings. Will it provide any usefulness when i carry it over to the 8.8 setup? Also i have a 07 but that kit says good for 04 and 05.. is there variations to my cradle vs the 04 05's?
thanks for any input... i have read many threads and cant really figure out what combination of patchwork might be best. overall id like to think im going to put more power into the car, id just like my current rear to stay around for a little..
Old 04-17-2018 | 01:25 PM
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The driveshaft, the terrible rear diff, the rear diff forward bushing, and ALL terribly weak and soft sub-frame, all of it combines to a perfect display to the lack of understanding GM has when they built the V1.

I believe everything above combines into the massive wheel hop.

I will do cradle bushings first. Are there any recommendations that while I have the cradle dropped, are there any other parts that are simply easier to swap while off the car vs on the car? I am getting a litany of new arms, to swap on so I can play with OEM arms and load with polyu and various other materials that are not as soft as a No. 2 pencil eraser. Very good thread with lots of feedback from users. I want more input at to what breaks and why. The videos on YouTube show enough movement for me to base this simple analysis on. Comments welcomed.
Old 04-18-2018 | 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by kra86
The driveshaft, the terrible rear diff, the rear diff forward bushing, and ALL terribly weak and soft sub-frame, all of it combines to a perfect display to the lack of understanding GM has when they built the V1.

I believe everything above combines into the massive wheel hop.

I will do cradle bushings first. Are there any recommendations that while I have the cradle dropped, are there any other parts that are simply easier to swap while off the car vs on the car? I am getting a litany of new arms, to swap on so I can play with OEM arms and load with polyu and various other materials that are not as soft as a No. 2 pencil eraser. Very good thread with lots of feedback from users. I want more input at to what breaks and why. The videos on YouTube show enough movement for me to base this simple analysis on. Comments welcomed.
In addition to cradle bushings, the rear upper control arms require the cradle to be lowered, if not completely removed to swap. Other than that, the rest of the rear suspension can be addressed with the cradle in place. When reinstalling the cradle, it is best practice to perform the final torquing with the rear suspension loaded to make sure everything is fully seated.

You're smart to start with the cradle bushings as those allow a tremendous amount of movement. I would also do the forward diff bushing at the same time.
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Old 04-19-2018 | 08:06 AM
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FYI, RevShift has the hardest compound and they work great. You have to ask for them.

Last edited by 54inches; 04-24-2018 at 12:14 PM.
Old 04-20-2018 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 54inches
FYI, RevShift has the hardest compound and they word great. You have to ask for them.
and if you ask creative steel you can get solid aluminum ones soooo....


that doesn't mean that either of those options are the best option.
Old 04-24-2018 | 12:14 PM
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Very true.

The poly ones are a tad softer than Al and if anyone had the Al when I ordered years ago, that is what I would be running.

They worked great with the SFCs before we went 8.8.

I have a lathe now, soooooooo
Old 04-25-2018 | 12:46 PM
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http://gen1v.com/shop/

get both and your wheel hop is dam near gone

your welcome
Old 04-27-2018 | 11:38 PM
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I like that 2nd Gen rear diff brace. the weld-in option is much cleaner and looks like a good way to stop the OEM diff from rotating in the silly ways it does.

Cradle bushings + Weld in 2nd gen diff brace I think are the top two things. The next are the odds and ends, farting around with axle frequency, etc...I will fix those two things (diff-brace and cradle bushings) and see what I can break next.
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Old 04-28-2018 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Iknow2
http://gen1v.com/shop/

get both and your wheel hop is dam near gone

your welcome
Nice throwaway account. None of that is necessary if you upgrade your bushings. Bushings weigh less and contribute less to structureborne noise. Not to mention costing less than those rape-y prices.
Old 04-30-2018 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c
Nice throwaway account. None of that is necessary if you upgrade your bushings. Bushings weigh less and contribute less to structureborne noise. Not to mention costing less than those rape-y prices.
For once we agree on something.
Old 05-01-2018 | 03:46 AM
  #420  
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Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c
None of that is necessary if you upgrade your bushings. Bushings weigh less and contribute less to structureborne noise.
Jealous cuz this intelligent and also working solution doesn't grow up in ur small brain or what caused such a answer based on what... internet acknowledge, Google doesn't throw the right answer on search bar, so better next time try solutions BY URSELF, before spreading **** into www. and for the google search bar:

Several ppls on fb tried this solution with perfect results, I have them also lying to my feet and will report after install!

Note: Every stiffer bushing will transmit more noise wherever u install them, that's in the natural of rubber and since when does it counts the weight of a bushing, we are building race cars or dd here???


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