First CTS-V steel diff is taking shape
01-20-2008, 09:57 PM
#21
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UPDATE. New diff is being painted. I am happy to report it only weighs a MERE 42 lbs.!!!
Will be in touch soon. Here's a great pic to drool over.
Will be in touch soon. Here's a great pic to drool over.
01-20-2008, 10:23 PM
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01-21-2008, 07:57 AM
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01-21-2008, 09:03 AM
#27
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Neat. I love driveline parts. I don't have a CTSV so pardon my ignorance. What exactly is being solved by the steel differential housing? Do the stock housings break under high torque?
Andrew
Andrew
01-21-2008, 11:08 AM
#30
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Interesting.
Just thinking out loud here. If one were to go through the trouble of making a billet case, why not design it to accommodate Ford 9" components or some other strong differential? The 9" is a nice choice because there is an amazing array or gear ratios available, not to mention all kinds of differential setup. Everything from spools, to torsens, to lockers.
Just a thought.
Andrew
Just thinking out loud here. If one were to go through the trouble of making a billet case, why not design it to accommodate Ford 9" components or some other strong differential? The 9" is a nice choice because there is an amazing array or gear ratios available, not to mention all kinds of differential setup. Everything from spools, to torsens, to lockers.
Just a thought.
Andrew
01-22-2008, 06:47 PM
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Trying to engineer a carrier that would bolt into the car AND accommodate Ford parts would cost a lot of money and a lot of time considering the design of the carrier. Since the internal components dont normally fail, simply replacing the stock housing with one that is mechanically no different (except being stronger) is the most simple and cost effective solution to this ongoing problem.
Not saying that its not a good idea, but for the people on hear that dont have 7 or 8k to just through down on a new bullet proof rear end, this is hopefully going to be our ticket to the races!
Not saying that its not a good idea, but for the people on hear that dont have 7 or 8k to just through down on a new bullet proof rear end, this is hopefully going to be our ticket to the races!
01-22-2008, 07:03 PM
#33
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Trying to engineer a carrier that would bolt into the car AND accommodate Ford parts would cost a lot of money and a lot of time considering the design of the carrier. Since the internal components dont normally fail, simply replacing the stock housing with one that is mechanically no different (except being stronger) is the most simple and cost effective solution to this ongoing problem.
Not saying that its not a good idea, but for the people on hear that dont have 7 or 8k to just through down on a new bullet proof rear end, this is hopefully going to be our ticket to the races!
Not saying that its not a good idea, but for the people on hear that dont have 7 or 8k to just through down on a new bullet proof rear end, this is hopefully going to be our ticket to the races!
What may happen is that once you fix the case, you will start moving outward and find the next weak link.
Once again this is purely academic for me but I have some experience with beating on IRS cars. I had a 1988 RX 7 and was having all kinds of durability issues with the stock rear end, and finally ended up making brackets to mount a Cobra diff in the chassis, 300M axles. The outer CVs were also upgraded by boring the rebroaching the hubs.
Andrew
P.S. Your avatar is scrumptious.
01-23-2008, 08:42 PM
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All valid points. Just out of curiosity what are the specs on the diff and ring and pinion? What the ring gear diameter? What are the specifications on the inner stub axles? Diameter? Spline count?
What may happen is that once you fix the case, you will start moving outward and find the next weak link.
Once again this is purely academic for me but I have some experience with beating on IRS cars. I had a 1988 RX 7 and was having all kinds of durability issues with the stock rear end, and finally ended up making brackets to mount a Cobra diff in the chassis, 300M axles. The outer CVs were also upgraded by boring the rebroaching the hubs.
Andrew
P.S. Your avatar is scrumptious.
What may happen is that once you fix the case, you will start moving outward and find the next weak link.
Once again this is purely academic for me but I have some experience with beating on IRS cars. I had a 1988 RX 7 and was having all kinds of durability issues with the stock rear end, and finally ended up making brackets to mount a Cobra diff in the chassis, 300M axles. The outer CVs were also upgraded by boring the rebroaching the hubs.
Andrew
P.S. Your avatar is scrumptious.
About the measurements and spline count, others will have to help you with that one. I've never been into one yet.
01-24-2008, 10:10 AM
#36
No doubt this will only lead to the next weakest link. Personally, I think if the wheel hop was eliminated, 90% of the problem would go away. Loading and unloading the diff like that is what breaks them. If the case was strengthened and the wheel hop not addressed, I'm sure the next thing to go will be either the front pinion or the axles. My guess is axles.
About the measurements and spline count, others will have to help you with that one. I've never been into one yet.
About the measurements and spline count, others will have to help you with that one. I've never been into one yet.
- Wheel hop
- Pinion Deflection
- Brittle/Thin Diff Carrier
- Small Fluid Capacity
This project will address the most of the last 3:
- Wheel hop
- Pinion Deflection: New diff buushings will greatly help this. The pinion angle changes as much as +/- 15 degrees under driving conditions (yes that's a total of 30 degrees). Pinion supports (from KARS/BMR) also help some. UUC is supposed to be coming out with a replacement front diff carrier bushing 'any day now'.
- Brittle/Thin Diff Carrier. Steel > Aluminum
- Small Fluid Capacity. CG has added a tap for a diff cooler. This will add more volume, and keep what's in there cooler.
Wheel hop can be addressed in multimple ways.
- Cradle Stabilization Kit. BMR & KARS cradle kits, tie the subframe into the main frame, to prevent some of the osilation. This doesn;t 'fix' it, but helps the most.
- Craddle Bushings. Lingenfelter and Spectre Werks both offer craddle bushing insert kits which help to stabilize these rubbery bushings. GM also has some TSB bushings that can be added to the '04-05 V's (a slightly different version is stock with the '06/'07's), but they suck major @$$, and skeek to kningdom come, and don't really do anything (I had them, then had the dealer remove them.) Unfortunately no one makes any replacement bushings. The stock ones would need to be burned out to actually get them out of the craddle. Finally I guess you could always weld the craddle to the frame
- Higher Durometer bushings in the rest of the suspension. BMR offers better toe and trailing arms with upgraded bushings, to lessen the play in the suspension. Also GM racing has a lower rear control arm replacement, which has better bushings. To my knowledge there are no replacements available for the rest of the bushings in the rear (i.e. Upper Control Arms, etc.)
- updgraded shocks. Some double adjustable coilovers sure would help. CHA-CHING.
My $0.02. My 4th diff is making all kinds of horrible noises now. I'm also out of warranty, so I am really hoping CG pulls this off.
-Chris
01-24-2008, 10:30 AM
#39
The back cover comes off the viper diff and a custom one could be made to make it mount in our cars.. That or just use the strong mounting points it has in a custom steel bracket.
I beat the **** out of the rear end in my viper and the only thing i killed at the track was the u joints, 5000rpm dumps and lots of nitrous and it kept on kickin... lol Last year at oceola was pretty fun. But, while i was under there replacing the ujoints, i thought that it would be fairly simple and cheap to make a viper rear end for the v. I just dont have the time.
I beat the **** out of the rear end in my viper and the only thing i killed at the track was the u joints, 5000rpm dumps and lots of nitrous and it kept on kickin... lol Last year at oceola was pretty fun. But, while i was under there replacing the ujoints, i thought that it would be fairly simple and cheap to make a viper rear end for the v. I just dont have the time.
01-24-2008, 11:49 AM
#40
The back cover comes off the viper diff and a custom one could be made to make it mount in our cars.. That or just use the strong mounting points it has in a custom steel bracket.
I beat the **** out of the rear end in my viper and the only thing i killed at the track was the u joints, 5000rpm dumps and lots of nitrous and it kept on kickin... lol Last year at oceola was pretty fun. But, while i was under there replacing the ujoints, i thought that it would be fairly simple and cheap to make a viper rear end for the v. I just dont have the time.
I beat the **** out of the rear end in my viper and the only thing i killed at the track was the u joints, 5000rpm dumps and lots of nitrous and it kept on kickin... lol Last year at oceola was pretty fun. But, while i was under there replacing the ujoints, i thought that it would be fairly simple and cheap to make a viper rear end for the v. I just dont have the time.