Motormounts...PITA!
#1
Motormounts...PITA!
Well, about 4 hours into it and I've got about 1-2 hours left to button it up (UMI mounts). If you plan on tackling the install this weekend here's a piece of advice. The passenger side, when installing the new mount, the guide says bolt up the upper then install the lower and put the bolt in, however due to clearance issues with the starter and a drive accessory you cannot put the bolt in with the upper bolted on. Put one bolt on the upper, I had luck with the top front bolt, then put the lower half of the mount on and put your bolt in and finish the install.
The other thing is take your tires off, I tried to do it with them on and after an hour into I ripped them off and it made things much easier.
Last thing, the guide says to remove the lower mount bolts then remove the nut holding the existing mount in place. I found since my mounts were so torn up that there was too much play and not enough room to move my wrench with the steering rack in the way. Leave the front bolt (13mm) in place loose, then loosen the nut that holds the mount to the bottom bracket.
Still not finished so no driveabilty impressions yet, but everything seems to be top notch. My drivers side mount was mangled to hell on top (looked fine from the bottom) and the passenger side is still intact.
And I'm not sure if the guide mentions it, but it is very easy to cross-thread the bolt going into the block next to the starter (guess how I know) so be careful.
The other thing is take your tires off, I tried to do it with them on and after an hour into I ripped them off and it made things much easier.
Last thing, the guide says to remove the lower mount bolts then remove the nut holding the existing mount in place. I found since my mounts were so torn up that there was too much play and not enough room to move my wrench with the steering rack in the way. Leave the front bolt (13mm) in place loose, then loosen the nut that holds the mount to the bottom bracket.
Still not finished so no driveabilty impressions yet, but everything seems to be top notch. My drivers side mount was mangled to hell on top (looked fine from the bottom) and the passenger side is still intact.
And I'm not sure if the guide mentions it, but it is very easy to cross-thread the bolt going into the block next to the starter (guess how I know) so be careful.
#2
If you're trying to install them with the exhaust in the way, I can see how it would be a PITA. I always remove the exhaust when doing mounts on a V. It takes more time, but makes life a LOT easier.
You'll love how the car feels afterwards. GM made a great car in the V but apparently designed all the mounts on a Friday afternoon.
You'll love how the car feels afterwards. GM made a great car in the V but apparently designed all the mounts on a Friday afternoon.
#4
i did creative steel mounts a few months ago- i did it with long tubes, catback, and a monster clutch all in one shot so it made the mounts insanely easy. ive done a few sets where we just removed the catback- its a pita- with a lift it makes it a little less annoying, if i remember correctly the passenger side my snap on impact swivel made it a million times easier as well. i didnt even realize mine were torn- i was just doing them since it was easy while it was out- both of mine were ripped apart
#5
New mounts are installed. $200 well spent. No more shake at shut down heavy vibrations usually present in a parking lot >1k rpms are now high frequency and aren't as pronounced. Also has less vibrations accelerating while already driving. All in all great mod.
#7
I put the pass side bolt in from the front with the nut on the back. I was able to with the upper base bolted to the block but ymmv. My mounts were bad enough that I could remove the whole thing assembled but that greatly depends on the condition of the mount.
Guess you haven't done the diff mount yet lol. I hate doing fixes on cars. Mods are neat but fixing something that breaks or that was poorly designed sucks.
Guess you haven't done the diff mount yet lol. I hate doing fixes on cars. Mods are neat but fixing something that breaks or that was poorly designed sucks.
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#9
I have been immersed in getting my V to pass CA smog.
What a PITA!
Right now I am on a 60 day extension that cost me $50, after burning the three months from the date I got the notice trying to pass.
So far, I have had to have the PCM reprogrammed (rear O2's were turned off, and by the way you ain't gonna pass if those are off!), replaced a blown header gasket, ignition wires (intermittent!), evac solenoid (cracked fitting /leak), and an O2 sensor.
What is the real pisser is that if I can just get one of the tests to run that haven't (cat eff or evap) I can pass.
Ca allows for one "no go".
The tailpipe sniffer has already been done.
All this is leading up to getting the car to pass smog so I can replace the clutch (Monster) as I hate it, and I blame the chatter for the intermittent ignition wires (it shook them apart), and the blown header gasket as it shook the header loose (I lost two 12 point ARP nuts and washers).
As for CF, you can PM me.
What a PITA!
Right now I am on a 60 day extension that cost me $50, after burning the three months from the date I got the notice trying to pass.
So far, I have had to have the PCM reprogrammed (rear O2's were turned off, and by the way you ain't gonna pass if those are off!), replaced a blown header gasket, ignition wires (intermittent!), evac solenoid (cracked fitting /leak), and an O2 sensor.
What is the real pisser is that if I can just get one of the tests to run that haven't (cat eff or evap) I can pass.
Ca allows for one "no go".
The tailpipe sniffer has already been done.
All this is leading up to getting the car to pass smog so I can replace the clutch (Monster) as I hate it, and I blame the chatter for the intermittent ignition wires (it shook them apart), and the blown header gasket as it shook the header loose (I lost two 12 point ARP nuts and washers).
As for CF, you can PM me.
Last edited by heavymetals; 11-25-2011 at 12:26 PM.