Rev Shift Motor Mount Install Tutorial Writeup
06-29-2012, 08:05 AM
#1
Rev Shift Motor Mount Install Tutorial Writeup So your stock motor mounts look like this?
If they don't yet, they will
Time to change them out for some nice new Rev Shift Motor Mounts!
(the Nylon Nuts on the RevTechs is 3/4"):
Tools you'll need:
15mm socket
18mm socket
3/4" socket
Jack with piece of wood to distribute weight
External Torx E-10 (or a 8mm socket)
Extensions
Now you have a decision to make.....
Some people take the stock manifolds/or headers off to do this which makes life a lot easier but takes more time
(lots of extensions and an impact, when removing the motor mount brackets from the block)
Or leave the manifold/headers on and get up close and personal with a wrench.
Remove the wheel and dive on in.
This is showing Passenger Side (3 bolts):
Old Motor Mount bolts on block: 15mm
This is showing Driver's Side (4 bolts):
Make sure the bolts with studded head go on bottom so the wire loom can be reattached
Here are the new Revshift Mounts inside both brackets. It's upside down in the pic (sorry I was in a hurry and was trying to take pics on the side)
RevTech also told me the factory heat shields are not necessary and were not installed
The Nut on the hex stud is 18mm
This is the same stud removed (you can use a 8mm socket on it if you don't have an E-10 inverted torx socket):
Here's how I lifted the engine block (and how I've done it every MM change)
My buddy Lance's head is now famous
Gratuitous Dipstick shot (some people say they've done it without removing, but I've taken mine out every time since it's like playing Jenga getting the MM bracket out...that bolt is 15mm)
Wrapped headers FTW
This is trying to maneuver the passenger side motor mount block from the engine bay (That nut on top is 18mm):
RevShift mount installed,,,very nice!:
Initial thoughts after I've put 400+ miles on these so far.......
The idle vibration is raised slightly compared to the UUC's. Now I realize this is all subjective....so a little insight:
The UUC's only vibrated slightly more than the stockers, so being the Rev Tech's being a harder urethane than the UUC's you feel the idle just a tad more like as if you had a tiny cam maybe?
The engine feels like it's more planted though like the power is getting transplanted to the ground a lot better. Placebo effect? I don't know.....but I like it.
I got the 80A blue ones (softer street ones) which are only $149.99....can't beat that price!
RevShift makes red ones (track ones) and even harder. So pick your poison.
All in all I'm happy with them because I like my power getting to the pavement. My UUC's weren't bad (I thought they were) but these are much firmer which hopefully translates to HP being used intsead of lost. (Like my butt dyno suggests) I'm digging em!
Here's a link to buy em:
https://www.revshift.com/shop/bushin...s/cadillac.php
If you have any questions, PM me.
If they don't yet, they will
Time to change them out for some nice new Rev Shift Motor Mounts!
(the Nylon Nuts on the RevTechs is 3/4"):
Tools you'll need:
15mm socket
18mm socket
3/4" socket
Jack with piece of wood to distribute weight
External Torx E-10 (or a 8mm socket)
Extensions
Now you have a decision to make.....
Some people take the stock manifolds/or headers off to do this which makes life a lot easier but takes more time
(lots of extensions and an impact, when removing the motor mount brackets from the block)
Or leave the manifold/headers on and get up close and personal with a wrench.
Remove the wheel and dive on in.
This is showing Passenger Side (3 bolts):
Old Motor Mount bolts on block: 15mm
This is showing Driver's Side (4 bolts):
Make sure the bolts with studded head go on bottom so the wire loom can be reattached
Here are the new Revshift Mounts inside both brackets. It's upside down in the pic (sorry I was in a hurry and was trying to take pics on the side)
RevTech also told me the factory heat shields are not necessary and were not installed
The Nut on the hex stud is 18mm
This is the same stud removed (you can use a 8mm socket on it if you don't have an E-10 inverted torx socket):
Here's how I lifted the engine block (and how I've done it every MM change)
My buddy Lance's head is now famous
Gratuitous Dipstick shot (some people say they've done it without removing, but I've taken mine out every time since it's like playing Jenga getting the MM bracket out...that bolt is 15mm)
Wrapped headers FTW
This is trying to maneuver the passenger side motor mount block from the engine bay (That nut on top is 18mm):
RevShift mount installed,,,very nice!:
Initial thoughts after I've put 400+ miles on these so far.......
The idle vibration is raised slightly compared to the UUC's. Now I realize this is all subjective....so a little insight:
The UUC's only vibrated slightly more than the stockers, so being the Rev Tech's being a harder urethane than the UUC's you feel the idle just a tad more like as if you had a tiny cam maybe?
The engine feels like it's more planted though like the power is getting transplanted to the ground a lot better. Placebo effect? I don't know.....but I like it.
I got the 80A blue ones (softer street ones) which are only $149.99....can't beat that price!
RevShift makes red ones (track ones) and even harder. So pick your poison.
All in all I'm happy with them because I like my power getting to the pavement. My UUC's weren't bad (I thought they were) but these are much firmer which hopefully translates to HP being used intsead of lost. (Like my butt dyno suggests) I'm digging em!
Here's a link to buy em:
https://www.revshift.com/shop/bushin...s/cadillac.php
If you have any questions, PM me.
Last edited by lollygagger8; 06-29-2012 at 08:39 AM.
06-29-2012, 12:51 PM
#7
I used some Lava wrap left over from my headers, the CS heat shields provided, AND for laughs just threw the stock heat shields on top.
I would HIGHLY recommend removing the stock manifolds (headers MUST come off).
The nuts on the underside of the front bolts of the lower bracket are welded to the sub frame, so the bolts have to come out from the topside.
The rest is fairly straight forward.
A vice is an easy way to secure the brackets while you break the nuts loose from the motor mount studs once you get them out. They're torqued a little too firmly to hold and turn at the same time.
I would HIGHLY recommend removing the stock manifolds (headers MUST come off).
The nuts on the underside of the front bolts of the lower bracket are welded to the sub frame, so the bolts have to come out from the topside.
The rest is fairly straight forward.
A vice is an easy way to secure the brackets while you break the nuts loose from the motor mount studs once you get them out. They're torqued a little too firmly to hold and turn at the same time.
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09-14-2012, 11:39 PM
#9
So I am fairly certain my stock ones are totally shot. I have a noticeable vibe at any RPM. I don't, however, want to have a crazy vibration all the time.
If I am looking more for comfort and durability, would I be better served by something like these RevShift mounts, or should I budget replacing my bad ones with stock variants at regular intervals?
If I am looking more for comfort and durability, would I be better served by something like these RevShift mounts, or should I budget replacing my bad ones with stock variants at regular intervals?
09-15-2012, 10:11 AM
#11
Cs and (i assume based on the design) rs are significantly stiffer than stock mounts. If one drives a completely stock V and specifically enjoys that traditional caddy feel, they will notice the difference. Of course, nvh is very subjective...Some might not care at all...some might not like it at first but eventually get used to it, some may never accept it. There are tradeoffs to stiffer mounts and statistically, these mounts are stiffer... It will be most noticeable at idle..acceleration isn't that bad... But if you have any pre-existing vibration issues, they are amplified.
If you want the smoothest ride and are ok with the 'reduced' feedback they provide, AND have the ability to change them yourself, the stock mounts are your best bet. Perhaps add a torque cable to further preserve the driver side mount, which always seems to die first.
I've had stock and cs, and stock filled with poly. I think I actually snapped the poly filling in my driver mount, so I may try a pair of these rs mounts. For what you get they seem to be priced right.
Last edited by Cadzilla; 09-15-2012 at 10:36 AM.
09-15-2012, 11:53 AM
#12
I'm still waiting for somebody to find a rubber bushing that fits inside the UMI Mounts. THe UMI design is superior to the other mounts, it is just currently the harshest (ignoring the solid metal mounts)
I know i put a set of motor mounts on my Jeep that look just like the UMI ones but were offered with rubber bushings, they added no vibration, but are very strong.
I know i put a set of motor mounts on my Jeep that look just like the UMI ones but were offered with rubber bushings, they added no vibration, but are very strong.
09-16-2012, 12:04 PM
#13
Solid mounts?...really?
Cs and (i assume based on the design) rs are significantly stiffer than stock mounts. If one drives a completely stock V and specifically enjoys that traditional caddy feel, they will notice the difference. Of course, nvh is very subjective...Some might not care at all...some might not like it at first but eventually get used to it, some may never accept it. There are tradeoffs to stiffer mounts and statistically, these mounts are stiffer... It will be most noticeable at idle..acceleration isn't that bad... But if you have any pre-existing vibration issues, they are amplified.
If you want the smoothest ride and are ok with the 'reduced' feedback they provide, AND have the ability to change them yourself, the stock mounts are your best bet. Perhaps add a torque cable to further preserve the driver side mount, which always seems to die first.
I've had stock and cs, and stock filled with poly. I think I actually snapped the poly filling in my driver mount, so I may try a pair of these rs mounts. For what you get they seem to be priced right.
Cs and (i assume based on the design) rs are significantly stiffer than stock mounts. If one drives a completely stock V and specifically enjoys that traditional caddy feel, they will notice the difference. Of course, nvh is very subjective...Some might not care at all...some might not like it at first but eventually get used to it, some may never accept it. There are tradeoffs to stiffer mounts and statistically, these mounts are stiffer... It will be most noticeable at idle..acceleration isn't that bad... But if you have any pre-existing vibration issues, they are amplified.
If you want the smoothest ride and are ok with the 'reduced' feedback they provide, AND have the ability to change them yourself, the stock mounts are your best bet. Perhaps add a torque cable to further preserve the driver side mount, which always seems to die first.
I've had stock and cs, and stock filled with poly. I think I actually snapped the poly filling in my driver mount, so I may try a pair of these rs mounts. For what you get they seem to be priced right.
Sorry to threadjack, but what is a torque cable in relation to these cars?
09-16-2012, 12:35 PM
#14
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Poly mounts will not make the V idle like a duramax at all. I know what your thinking about with a rough idle on the dmax, and my V with CS mounts is quiet as a mouse compared to my dmax, even before all the mods I have on it.
09-16-2012, 01:05 PM
#15
So you'd think that the current rattling/vibes is probably just due to the bad mounts? If that's the case, maybe I'll give these poly mounts a try.
09-16-2012, 02:21 PM
#16
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Don't get me wrong poly mounts will transfer a little more vibration, but it really isnt bad. Not quite as smooth as stock mounts, but no where near what you get out of a dmax and they hold up a lot better.
09-17-2012, 10:14 AM
#17
Thanks for the feedback... Right now the car feels a bit like my Duramax did at idle, maybe a little rougher. I would assume the stock mounts are dead, since the previous owner didn't recall ever having the dealer replace them. If adding poly mounts would make it feel that way permanently I think I'll forego those and get some stock ones instead.
09-17-2012, 01:49 PM
#18
FYI:
Revshift is now saying to wrap the mounts before install.
Header wrap and a few metal zipties (used for header wrap) would do it. The stock heat shield's hole is too large for the new mounts, so you would have to cut/fold them over then ziptie them.
Revshift is now saying to wrap the mounts before install.
Header wrap and a few metal zipties (used for header wrap) would do it. The stock heat shield's hole is too large for the new mounts, so you would have to cut/fold them over then ziptie them.
