Can't pass e-test!!!!
09-21-2009, 10:56 AM
#21
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However, the test is in parts-per-million so the cutout won't do much.
Another trick is to turn off the closed loop monitoring and run the car in open loop. That way you have ultimate control over the amount of fuel going in...just have to be careful with how lean to run it or you will burn up the cats. You can also trigger the air pump to dump extra air in the exhaust (make sure to trigger the solenoid too). It's a little more involved, but if the cam is big enough it may be needed.
Mark
10-07-2009, 03:29 PM
#22
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I have a set of Kooks LT and catted y-pipe. The cats are small on them too, and they are not stopping much. I looked inside mine, and it's basically a roll of paper inside. I got the cat efficiency low code after installing, and mechanic says they aren't worth much.
I got the codes deleted, but in a couple years when it's close to e-test time again, I'll change them out to magnaflows.
I got the codes deleted, but in a couple years when it's close to e-test time again, I'll change them out to magnaflows.
10-07-2009, 11:29 PM
#23
Technically they aren't supposed to test the car with an exhaust leak so they should say "no".
However, the test is in parts-per-million so the cutout won't do much.
Another trick is to turn off the closed loop monitoring and run the car in open loop. That way you have ultimate control over the amount of fuel going in...just have to be careful with how lean to run it or you will burn up the cats. You can also trigger the air pump to dump extra air in the exhaust (make sure to trigger the solenoid too). It's a little more involved, but if the cam is big enough it may be needed.
Mark
However, the test is in parts-per-million so the cutout won't do much.
Another trick is to turn off the closed loop monitoring and run the car in open loop. That way you have ultimate control over the amount of fuel going in...just have to be careful with how lean to run it or you will burn up the cats. You can also trigger the air pump to dump extra air in the exhaust (make sure to trigger the solenoid too). It's a little more involved, but if the cam is big enough it may be needed.
Mark
10-20-2009, 09:58 PM
#25
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I just failed NOx on pretty much stock Z28
everything else passed with flying numbers. Everywhere I look at, people have different limits for NOx numbers, is it predetermined for each car specifically? Funny part is all I did this summer was get CAI, replaced cat with Magnaflow and flushed/changed coolant...
Wow, even after 35% thats a high accepted number of NOx comparing to what I had, I would have passed...
Are my NOx really high? Or did the local shop just ripped me off
? And any suggestion to reduce the NOx?
Thanks in advance!
everything else passed with flying numbers. Everywhere I look at, people have different limits for NOx numbers, is it predetermined for each car specifically? Funny part is all I did this summer was get CAI, replaced cat with Magnaflow and flushed/changed coolant...Are my NOx really high? Or did the local shop just ripped me off
? And any suggestion to reduce the NOx? Thanks in advance!
10-21-2009, 02:48 PM
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10-21-2009, 02:51 PM
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I just failed NOx on pretty much stock Z28 everything else passed with flying numbers. Everywhere I look at, people have different limits for NOx numbers, is it predetermined for each car specifically? Funny part is all I did this summer was get CAI, replaced cat with Magnaflow and flushed/changed coolant...
Wow, even after 35% thats a high accepted number of NOx comparing to what I had, I would have passed...
Are my NOx really high? Or did the local shop just ripped me off? And any suggestion to reduce the NOx?
Thanks in advance!
everything else passed with flying numbers. Everywhere I look at, people have different limits for NOx numbers, is it predetermined for each car specifically? Funny part is all I did this summer was get CAI, replaced cat with Magnaflow and flushed/changed coolant...Wow, even after 35% thats a high accepted number of NOx comparing to what I had, I would have passed...
Are my NOx really high? Or did the local shop just ripped me off
? And any suggestion to reduce the NOx? Thanks in advance!
Steve
10-21-2009, 03:33 PM
#29
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I just failed NOx on pretty much stock Z28 everything else passed with flying numbers. Everywhere I look at, people have different limits for NOx numbers, is it predetermined for each car specifically? Funny part is all I did this summer was get CAI, replaced cat with Magnaflow and flushed/changed coolant...
Wow, even after 35% thats a high accepted number of NOx comparing to what I had, I would have passed...
Are my NOx really high? Or did the local shop just ripped me off? And any suggestion to reduce the NOx?
Thanks in advance!
everything else passed with flying numbers. Everywhere I look at, people have different limits for NOx numbers, is it predetermined for each car specifically? Funny part is all I did this summer was get CAI, replaced cat with Magnaflow and flushed/changed coolant...Wow, even after 35% thats a high accepted number of NOx comparing to what I had, I would have passed...
Are my NOx really high? Or did the local shop just ripped me off
? And any suggestion to reduce the NOx? Thanks in advance!
I'm kind of shocked that no code has shown up. Changing the cats would have an impact on the emissions too.
10-21-2009, 08:30 PM
#31
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Thanks to all who replied to my post.
I never put anything lower than 91 into my car, and usually try to put 94 as much as I can.
Few things I forgot to mention is that my car has been known to get hot while idling, and I had no time to figure out what it is. I did the whole coolant drain/flush/fill and 160 tstat this summer hoping it would fix it, but it didnt. So I thought being hot would be a good thing for combustion efficiency, but then after some research today I found out that high temps can cause high NOx output. I had the heater on the lowest setting, keeping the temp at 3/4 or maybe a little above of the temp range.
Another thing is that the car has been sitting for maybe 10 days-2 weeks prior to test, I went for a quick drive before though, got on WOT couple of times too.
And lastly when doing coolant flush/drain I took out the block plug and knock sensor. I sort of eyeballed the knock sensor when putting it back in, when I heard it has to be torqued to specifications otherwise it would affect the timing?
Any further advice, suggestions would be of great help.
Thanks again.
I never put anything lower than 91 into my car, and usually try to put 94 as much as I can.
Few things I forgot to mention is that my car has been known to get hot while idling, and I had no time to figure out what it is. I did the whole coolant drain/flush/fill and 160 tstat this summer hoping it would fix it, but it didnt. So I thought being hot would be a good thing for combustion efficiency, but then after some research today I found out that high temps can cause high NOx output. I had the heater on the lowest setting, keeping the temp at 3/4 or maybe a little above of the temp range.
Another thing is that the car has been sitting for maybe 10 days-2 weeks prior to test, I went for a quick drive before though, got on WOT couple of times too.
And lastly when doing coolant flush/drain I took out the block plug and knock sensor. I sort of eyeballed the knock sensor when putting it back in, when I heard it has to be torqued to specifications otherwise it would affect the timing?
Any further advice, suggestions would be of great help.
Thanks again.
10-21-2009, 09:36 PM
#32
NOX is a function of high combustion chamber temps. The EGR lowers this by injecting exhaust back into the intake stream. Exhaust gasses don't burn again. This can lower combustion chamber temps significantly and also curbs pre-detonation allowing higher timing during long cruise periods.
The only problem, combined with a shitty PCV system that spits oil into the intake, this pretty much cakes the intake tract.
Running the proper octane will help emissions. 91 or better, our compression needs it. Low octane forces the low octane table to be triggered due to detonation. The low octane table is a fail zone meaning its not optimized for efficiency rather for saving your engine. 94 does nothing for your emissions unless your car is tuned for it.
Your goal is either to lower combustion chamber temps. You can either make sure it doesn't overheat or get close to such a condition. 196F is basically the optimal temp for emissions with your coolant. You can fix the egr which would solve it all. If you lower your coolant temps, HC goes up. You have a good hc reading, so you have some leeway.
The only problem, combined with a shitty PCV system that spits oil into the intake, this pretty much cakes the intake tract.
Running the proper octane will help emissions. 91 or better, our compression needs it. Low octane forces the low octane table to be triggered due to detonation. The low octane table is a fail zone meaning its not optimized for efficiency rather for saving your engine. 94 does nothing for your emissions unless your car is tuned for it.
Your goal is either to lower combustion chamber temps. You can either make sure it doesn't overheat or get close to such a condition. 196F is basically the optimal temp for emissions with your coolant. You can fix the egr which would solve it all. If you lower your coolant temps, HC goes up. You have a good hc reading, so you have some leeway.
10-22-2009, 09:53 AM
#33
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NOX is a function of high combustion chamber temps. The EGR lowers this by injecting exhaust back into the intake stream. Exhaust gasses don't burn again. This can lower combustion chamber temps significantly and also curbs pre-detonation allowing higher timing during long cruise periods.
The only problem, combined with a shitty PCV system that spits oil into the intake, this pretty much cakes the intake tract.
Running the proper octane will help emissions. 91 or better, our compression needs it. Low octane forces the low octane table to be triggered due to detonation. The low octane table is a fail zone meaning its not optimized for efficiency rather for saving your engine. 94 does nothing for your emissions unless your car is tuned for it.
Your goal is either to lower combustion chamber temps. You can either make sure it doesn't overheat or get close to such a condition. 196F is basically the optimal temp for emissions with your coolant. You can fix the egr which would solve it all. If you lower your coolant temps, HC goes up. You have a good hc reading, so you have some leeway.
The only problem, combined with a shitty PCV system that spits oil into the intake, this pretty much cakes the intake tract.
Running the proper octane will help emissions. 91 or better, our compression needs it. Low octane forces the low octane table to be triggered due to detonation. The low octane table is a fail zone meaning its not optimized for efficiency rather for saving your engine. 94 does nothing for your emissions unless your car is tuned for it.
Your goal is either to lower combustion chamber temps. You can either make sure it doesn't overheat or get close to such a condition. 196F is basically the optimal temp for emissions with your coolant. You can fix the egr which would solve it all. If you lower your coolant temps, HC goes up. You have a good hc reading, so you have some leeway.
Also I was thinking about seafoaming and then using that "Guaranteed to pass" additive from crappy tire, would that improve anything...?
If everything fails, I guess I'll try replacing EGR, found one shipped from US for 115$. Wonder what the labor would be... it must be a pita in that tight space.
10-22-2009, 10:33 AM
#34
Thanks, I am gonna give it another shot soon an try to do it when car is cooler.
Also I was thinking about seafoaming and then using that "Guaranteed to pass" additive from crappy tire, would that improve anything...?
If everything fails, I guess I'll try replacing EGR, found one shipped from US for 115$. Wonder what the labor would be... it must be a pita in that tight space.
Also I was thinking about seafoaming and then using that "Guaranteed to pass" additive from crappy tire, would that improve anything...?
If everything fails, I guess I'll try replacing EGR, found one shipped from US for 115$. Wonder what the labor would be... it must be a pita in that tight space.
10-22-2009, 11:43 AM
#35
don't some of the LS1 cars not have an EGR...what are they doing to keep those temps down (or what was done from the factory) maybe you can try something along those lines, block off your egr so that it doesnt leak (if it is leaking) but leave it in place so it will pass the inspection part...
10-22-2009, 02:24 PM
#36
I understand he has an LT1...Im saying what makes those LS1's that dont have an egr pass emissions...maybe he can adapt whatever was done from the factory to his car, if it means he'll have to spend less then $115...I know I have to look further into this, because the holden lower intake manifold that I bought, does not have a spot for the EGR valve anywhere...so unless I make a custom way of getting it in there, I wont have one...and my NO ppm numbers were about 4-5 off from not passing...I'll have an EGR valve in the car, and it will "look" like it is hooked up...but that will just be for the MOE guys...
10-25-2009, 03:43 PM
#38
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Just a thought - but do you have a 3-way cat on the car? Some of the aftermarket ones are only 2-way so they don't reduce NOX. Maybe if you put a 3-way cat on it, it would pass?
http://www.car-sound.com/04basics/04emission.asp
Just something to think about
Mark
http://www.car-sound.com/04basics/04emission.asp
Just something to think about
Mark
10-26-2009, 09:33 AM
#39
TECH Apprentice
Just a thought - but do you have a 3-way cat on the car? Some of the aftermarket ones are only 2-way so they don't reduce NOX. Maybe if you put a 3-way cat on it, it would pass?
http://www.car-sound.com/04basics/04emission.asp
Just something to think about
Mark
http://www.car-sound.com/04basics/04emission.asp
Just something to think about
Mark
Took the words from my mouth Mark.
