wht01ws6ta

iTrader: (45)

Going off of the factory gauge (which seems to be fairly accurate comparing it to voltage read by a scanner such as HPTuners) the voltage doesn't go up much even when the engine is revved up. A different regulator that is designed to put out a consistant 14 volts should increase the voltage all of the time and not just right after starting the vehicle.

Keep the stock regulator that will only allow the alternator to put out ~12.5 volts during most conditions if you are worried about it overheating. When I swapped to a 160 degree thermo several years ago I noticed that not only are the engine temps a lot lower but the underhood temps stay a lot lower too. Lower underhood temps should help to cool the alternator a lot better compared to the temps that occured with a stock thermo.

Sizzlenut

iTrader: (1)

I did put a voltmeter across the terminals and saw 12.5 all the time when the car was warmed up, reving or not, under high draw, or not. I know not all LS1s have this problem- maybe the PCM reads differently sometimes ,therefore, regulating it differently as well. Mine was maintained at 12.5V and a lot of other people's are as well.

And you're right, higher voltage does mean less amperage required- leaving more amps available.

I'll let you know when my alternator melts.

QuickdomesticRacer

iTrader: (4)

If you purchase an 04 GTO Alt, and put it on an LS1 Fbody, Do you need to plug the exciter wire in still for the voltmeter to work on the dashboard?

Dyno paul

Just finishing a LS2 installation in a 1967 Nova and my Alternater would put out only battery voltage at idle sometimes 11.2 if you reved it up above idle it would charge 14 volts. and set a F terminal code. I eventualy added a wire to the L terminal .from my Alt. light which turns on the alternater at idle , you still need the F termminal connected to the alternater . to let the ECM know the alternater is charging so it will not set the code.(PO622