Figured i would share what i am doing, it is near finished, need a dip stick and a coil but it runs, need to finish the cooling system and get a belt. I used all the truck components you see on the front of the engine.

I shimmed the stock replacement oil pump .025 under the spring, milled the stock 317s, ported them myself to pick up a bit more flow, the headers are Hawks LS1 swap headers, they fit great. The crossmember is a Spohn T56 swap crossmember for a LT1 T56 swap so i had to mod it as you can see. Everything else is pretty straight forward, i removed the PS steering box in favor of a S10 manual unit to further save weight and free up a touch of power. Used the F body oil pan, stock K member, Moroso solid motor pads and the stock GM calm shells with the cheap 30$ ebay adapter plates.

Rearend is a Moser 12 bot with 4.30s, the trans is from a LS1tech member, he got it from a salvages TA i believe.





















This is of course using the MSD 6LS 6010 ignition box and a Edelbtrock Vic Jr intake, the carb is a Pro Form i built myself. Fires right up, i am used to messing with a distributor so it is nice to have a engine fore flawlessly the first time you crank it.

 

Looks awesome man. Is that ford blue on your block?

Also, where did you get the tensioner and alt mount bracket and how much was it? It looks like a semi slick setup thats more the likely less then the kwik performance unit.

what setback on the adapter plates did you use and how close w the pan to the k member?

Keep the progress coming, also let us know if you end up needing the 50cc accelerator pump for the front or not.

 

Looks good.

 

LOL, It is GM blue, you are not the first to ask that.

The tensioner piece is from the local hardware store, they did not have the heim joint i wanted, this piece has larger threads, i wanted the finer ones, but it was 2$ i think, i welded some washers on the I hooks on both sides to make a better contact area for mounting though.

The adapter plates are 0 off set, wish i went with some 1 inch set back pieces though, might have made things a touch easier, the pan is so close to the K member i cna barely fit a sheet of paper between the two, but it doesnt hit unless i remove the trans crossmember.

Doube i need the larger front acc pump, this carb fed more cubes than this with a larger cam, should be fine. BUT, wont know till i get it right for drive time/tuning.

 

I'll have to check it out when I can see the pics..sounds like you got it running good..

 

looks great! it will be a beast when you're done!

 

Zones89RS,
Looks good. Why not keep EFI? I don't mean to diminish your progress, but on your welding you can try slowing down your travel speed. Your welds would look (be stronger) alot better. It looks like stick to me. Try getting a MIG welder. This is by far the simplest welding method to master.

Keep the pics coming.

 

Thanks guys, all the work has been worth it so far, and the cash.

I hate EFI, that is the simple reason, there are too many advantages for me to keep the car carbed, i do not have to pay anyone to tune it or get software to try and tune it myself, i know my 270$ intake outflows damn near any EFI intake out there as well as it doesnt lop off air flow at 280 CFM like the plastic intakes do. My MSD 6LS box was 300$ with the harness and has the 2 step rev limiter for launch/burn out and top speed limiter, nitrous/boost retard built in as well, the timing maps are all set with my lap top or the plug in modules provided if i didnt have a lap top, i did not have to convert my car back to EFI and spend MORE money, the intake and MSD with harness was a touch over 600$, i could not have done that with EFI and been set, so between a budget and the fact that carbs usually make more power, i had no clear reason to go EFI. Better MPG is the only up side i can see. The car untuned fired up immediately and idled, cold as hell and idled like it was EFI. It is all in the tune and i know carbs, so i guess i stuck with what i know.

As for the welding, it was done with a 110 mig welder, flux core, it is all i have for now, gets the job done and i am happy to have the thing, makes my life way easier. Those welds were done at a meduim pace, i thought they were OK.

 

are you going to keep that box out there on the intake or is that just a pic with it setting there ? heat has done in a few so we mounted mine under my dash on my 3rd gen. my buddy"s kept tearing up when he had it out under the hood so we mounted his inside as well. ofcourse alot of people has them out there and never had an issue so....

 

Still in the air on that, my buddies is mounted where mine is right now and he has no issues, but i would like to mount it inside but the damn harness is not free for the extension.

 

what about that idler? is that something you made or did you buy that from somewhere?

pretty slick sticking your 3rd gen alt on there, eliminates the issue with the 4th gen comp controlled charging cycles.

You may also want to consider a jamb nut on your tensioner to keep it from wanting to back off, ive seen it before with the converted hardware store one.

Think you can snap a pic of how the tensioner and alt are mounted from the left side of the motor?

 

Well, got the hard parts in today for the other side from Nemess, going to try to sell these here if possible for guys like me doing these swaps and want it as easy as possible, these are prototype run pieces but they spec right, so they are pretty much locked in and the fit so great!

Love retaining the stock alternator too, we also will have the bracket for the driver side for those that want to keep the power steering, i am going to tryi and get one on for mock up and photos for those interested

 

Oh yea White84, the idler pulley is the stock tensioner pulley, made it mount right on the bracket!

 

Simply awesome job on the drive setup from what i can tell, any idea of pricing on that thing? Im hoping its less for either one the the kwik performance setup, not that theirs isnt a nice piece but some of us swappers are majorly budget oriented. Now all we need is someone to make headers for under 800$.

 

same motor mount position? Have to change the motor mount position for 6.0L? PIX?
I think about change the motor>305TBI to 5.3L on my 1992 Camaro this summer

 

In the first few pics you can see he reused the SBC engine and K-member mounts

For those, get the adapter and leave the mounts in the V8 position

For the spohn LS1 mounts, attach them to the K-member in the V6 position and use the stock LS1 engine mounts

 

We are building these pieces for guys like me and my buddy and it seems yourself, We are goig to add up all the parts and hardware and see what we can price that is still going to pay us for some labor but we are not going to get rich off of this, just want to see it used to cars around the world really.

We have a member on TGO that is going to be making 1 7/8 headers for the swap and he sais they will be priced around 550$, lets see if he comes thru, i am kinda sick i spent 800$ on my headers but i did ge what i paid for.

Yea, this is straight up, using the stock clam shell and stock V8 position, this is a 0 offset. Would have been a bit easier with 1 inch setbacks, but i think this works best for the tight exhaust location.

 

The Stainless works headers are second to none when it comes to quality but with rent, my truck payment etc it would take me 3-4 months to save up enough for them. Looks like ill be running manifolds for a little while.

Will that alternator bracket work with the 5.3 truck alternators as well or just the old head mounted alternators? Im curious if the computer will freak out if i run a 1 wire alternator with fuel injection since the computer controls the charging cycles.

Hows the steering with the s10 manual box conversion? I looked into one of those but cant seem to find any of them around our local junkyard. Its either one of those or AGR makes a nice converted manual steering box for our cars but at a heafty 400$.

Also, what cam did you end up going with in that thing? I had Pat G spec me up a eps lobed one for my speed density 5.3.

 

Yea, the headers were worth it, but the damn price took me a while to digest.

Let me speak with my buddy to see if we have a design for the stocker, this is more along the carb guys setup for the easier setups.

The steering is OK, it is not like power steering of course but it definitely better than a PS box with no lines going to it.

I used a Trex cam, sounds great and pulls well for the BS tune i have in the MSD box, i eed my serial port adapter so i can put my own tune on it. But it drives pretty damn well so far, throttle is touchy as hell and the 4.30 gears spin pretty easily, made me happy to drive it though

Here is the end result, the used *** water pump is if course leaking its *** off, just my luck!

 

If Nemess does not have anything for the stock late model alternators its not the end of the world, im sure it can be adapted or maybe a good alt shop can put the newer guts into an older housing. Even then i bet a good tuner can turn off the alt setup so it doesnt freak when it cant turn it on or off.

I would have had one custom specd on maybe a tighter lsa to take full advantage of the single plane, but the trex is pretty decent on them even though it was origionally intended for the plastic intakes.

I bet that thing has no trouble at all obliterating the tires. I think 3.73 gears may have been a bit better being were slightly lighter then the 4th gens.