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Carb Guys: Anyone grind the injector bosses out of your Victor Jr?

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Old 09-19-2010, 10:50 AM
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Default Carb Guys: Anyone grind the injector bosses out of your Victor Jr?

My L92 Vic Jr. carb intake just showed up the other day and overall it looks like a nice piece. But I noticed that the injector bosses that are cast into the outside of the runner also protrude into the inside of the runner. I'm sure for cost reasons Edelbrock just casts the exact same intake for injected and carb applications and then machines out bosses to accept the injector on the injected models, and leaves it fully intact on the carb ones. But for a carb application, it seems like it would be an unnecessary flow restriction and needs to be ground out for optimal flow. Has anyone else done this?
Old 09-19-2010, 04:46 PM
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I saw the same thing, I thought about it, but didnt do it, incase I go efi in future
Old 09-19-2010, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 3pedals
I saw the same thing, I thought about it, but didnt do it, incase I go efi in future
Yeah, I also may go efi in the future if I go turbo, but I think I'd just sell the carb intake and buy an EFI one. Not sure it'd be cost effective to try and have the injector holes machined into this intake. I think I'm gonna grind mine out.
Old 09-19-2010, 06:21 PM
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I took them out when I was doing port matching and clean up.
Old 09-19-2010, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by burgers
I took them out when I was doing port matching and clean up.
Cool. What did you use to grind them out? I was thinking about using sanding rolls. Any tips to keep them from plugging up?
Old 09-19-2010, 06:40 PM
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use a carbide cutter in a die grinder. dip it in ATF periodically, this will keep the aluminum from plugging up the cutter. Its messy, but it works.
Old 09-19-2010, 07:31 PM
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I would just use the carbide bits that are made for aluminum if you have any, then if you are picky enough, use the cartridge rolls to make them smoother.
Old 09-19-2010, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 3pedals
use a carbide cutter in a die grinder. dip it in ATF periodically, this will keep the aluminum from plugging up the cutter. Its messy, but it works.
Cool tip...thanks! My buddy told me they had some special grease at his work for the same purpose, but I figured there was probably a more commonly available item (like ATF) that may work for the same purpose. I'll give that a try.

Originally Posted by ZONES89RS
I would just use the carbide bits that are made for aluminum if you have any, then if you are picky enough, use the cartridge rolls to make them smoother.
LOL....yeah...I'm definately picky enough....to a fault sometimes. Is there a good place to pick up aluminum specific carbide bits? Is this something Home Depot or Sears would commonly stock? I know I've seen carbide bits at both places but never noticed if they were specifically for aluminum. I have some that I picked up from Harbor freight and I'm not sure they'd grind butter.
Old 09-19-2010, 09:18 PM
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The fine bits are for iron, they get clogged by aluminum usually. The Aluminum carbides are larger teeth, actually take out material quicker as it can be good or bad, but i get them from the swap meets when i see the tool guy, he always has them(both).
Old 09-19-2010, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ZONES89RS
The fine bits are for iron, they get clogged by aluminum usually. The Aluminum carbides are larger teeth, actually take out material quicker as it can be good or bad, but i get them from the swap meets when i see the tool guy, he always has them(both).

Cool. Thanks.
Old 09-20-2010, 06:49 AM
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I ground mine out also. when i was smoothing matching and cleaning up the runners, not sure if it helped increase hp numbers but made me feel better lol
Old 09-20-2010, 01:16 PM
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if i was gonna do it id knock them down on the outside too, and then try to match the grain or just paint it
Old 09-20-2010, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by GC99TA
Cool tip...thanks! My buddy told me they had some special grease at his work for the same purpose, but I figured there was probably a more commonly available item (like ATF) that may work for the same purpose. I'll give that a try.



LOL....yeah...I'm definately picky enough....to a fault sometimes. Is there a good place to pick up aluminum specific carbide bits? Is this something Home Depot or Sears would commonly stock? I know I've seen carbide bits at both places but never noticed if they were specifically for aluminum. I have some that I picked up from Harbor freight and I'm not sure they'd grind butter.
ive always just used plain ole wd40 instead of atf.
Old 09-20-2010, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by NemeSS
ive always just used plain ole wd40 instead of atf.
I think just about any lubricant will do the job. I even use the fine carbides, becasue thats what I had when I was porting aluminum, as long as you get the cutter lubed up frequently it wont clog up.
Old 09-21-2010, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Irish350
if i was gonna do it id knock them down on the outside too, and then try to match the grain or just paint it
Nah....those outside ones look like a good place to plum a DP N2O nozzle to me.

Originally Posted by NemeSS
ive always just used plain ole wd40 instead of atf.
Originally Posted by 3pedals
I think just about any lubricant will do the job. I even use the fine carbides, becasue thats what I had when I was porting aluminum, as long as you get the cutter lubed up frequently it wont clog up.
Cool. That gives me some options then. I'll try and update this once I've found the time to grind them out......way too many irons in the project fire right now!
Old 02-19-2011, 08:02 PM
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OK.....I know this thread is very last year....but I said I'd update it once I got mine done, so here we go.

Here is what I started with:



Well, that just won’t do, so I spent some quality time with the Dremel tool this weekend. I started with a carbide bit and stopped frequently to dip it in ATF as recommended earlier in this thread. It worked great! Not only did it keep the bit from plugging up, but it also lubricated it well enough to make it cut smoother. I also finished the ports off a little with a sanding roll, and then some paper by hand. I might not have done the best job on them, but I certainly didn’t make them flow any worse.






I’m not sure, but I think something is missing here……..Oh yeah…..a carb. Well, I ordered up a new 4150 from Patrick Prosystems on Monday. It should be here later this week!

Old 02-19-2011, 10:16 PM
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What is the part no. And usual cost of the l92 jr??
Old 02-19-2011, 10:21 PM
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Part number is 28457. Summit lists them for $349.95, but I found mine for $288.xx plus free shipping elsewhere online and had Summit price match it.
Old 02-20-2011, 06:54 AM
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Sweet, looks like you did a great job. Let us know how it does with the brand new carb.
Old 02-20-2011, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ZONES89RS
Sweet, looks like you did a great job. Let us know how it does with the brand new carb.
Thanks man. Will do.




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