Post your MSD timing curves!
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#9
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That's what he recommended for you. Its more of a drag race curve than anything. That curve is set up with a 4000 stall in mind as you can see it gets the timing back down by the time the converter stall "locks". I would be reluctant to run that much timing on pump gas and day to day driving. I would just set the map and a regular timing curve.
#10
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That's what he recommended for you. Its more of a drag race curve than anything. That curve is set up with a 4000 stall in mind as you can see it gets the timing back down by the time the converter stall "locks". I would be reluctant to run that much timing on pump gas and day to day driving. I would just set the map and a regular timing curve.
Doug you may be right to cut a couple degrees out of the low rpm like you did, and use a map sensor to add part throttle timing to it. My stick shift loads my engine way harder at low revs than any stalled auto , so I don't think the above curve will be a problem, but every combo wants something different. Basically give it what it wants, you can try more or less *, you won't hurt it at part throttle , but be carefull at WFO.
#12
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That's what he recommended for you. Its more of a drag race curve than anything. That curve is set up with a 4000 stall in mind as you can see it gets the timing back down by the time the converter stall "locks". I would be reluctant to run that much timing on pump gas and day to day driving. I would just set the map and a regular timing curve.
Ya your right, it is an aggressive curve for sure, with out much give toward street use.
Doug you may be right to cut a couple degrees out of the low rpm like you did, and use a map sensor to add part throttle timing to it. My stick shift loads my engine way harder at low revs than any stalled auto , so I don't think the above curve will be a problem, but every combo wants something different. Basically give it what it wants, you can try more or less *, you won't hurt it at part throttle , but be carefull at WFO.
Doug you may be right to cut a couple degrees out of the low rpm like you did, and use a map sensor to add part throttle timing to it. My stick shift loads my engine way harder at low revs than any stalled auto , so I don't think the above curve will be a problem, but every combo wants something different. Basically give it what it wants, you can try more or less *, you won't hurt it at part throttle , but be carefull at WFO.
The car does see "some" street time, but I like to play too
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#13
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I have the LS376/515 with a Holley Ultra 750. I took the timing from Pill #6 and bumped the initial timing up to 12 and then went with the rest of the curve provided. Also dropped the MAP curve down by 4 everywhere. Here in CA, we have 91 octane w/ 10% ethanol so taking no chances.
My main reason for posting is that I tried (and failed) to find out how GMPP dyno'd the engine performance reported in their literature. Best I could come up with is this from another site.
My main reason for posting is that I tried (and failed) to find out how GMPP dyno'd the engine performance reported in their literature. Best I could come up with is this from another site.
"I used to work at SPO headquarters and the GMPP engineer on the LS3 crate engine program ran ALL of them at 27*, that was the sweet spot."
Also found a lot of people reporting that it is useless to dial in too much advance as these motors don't respond the way the small blocks did.
#14
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something to think about.
#16
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You have to take into consideration that we are talking about 3 or 4 different combustion chambers in the heads.
LS2/LS6 (243/799)
LQ4/LQ9 (317)
L92/LS3
5.3
Combustion chambers effect burn rate and timing.
Also, compression ration will effect timing for any given fuel. So, ideal timing will vary for sure.
#17
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Dyno tuned my 6.0 L. Started at 30 total , went to 32, 34 , gained each time. Tried 36 total , no gain. Settled on 34 total. Torque went from 390 lbs/ft at 30 deg, to 435 at 34.
HP only came up about 15 though.
HP only came up about 15 though.