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Post your MSD timing curves!

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Old 09-21-2010, 09:43 AM
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Default Post your MSD timing curves!

Okay guys lets see what you all are running for timing! Mine is 28 degrees up until 3000 rpm's and then 32 degrees up to 7500 rpm. Its a 6.0 with L92's and comp cam.
Old 09-21-2010, 08:01 PM
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6.0l, l92 heads, 9.6:1, 18* initial at 0-500rpm ramping to 36* from 2000 though to 7500
Old 09-21-2010, 09:22 PM
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Mine, for now...

Old 09-27-2010, 03:57 PM
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Mine is 18* from 0-1100rpm, then 32 from there on up.
Old 08-31-2013, 07:29 PM
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Bump for more post
Old 09-01-2013, 07:02 AM
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This is where 3Pedals has me, but I did lower the initial some to 33-34ish

Old 09-01-2013, 09:23 AM
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Mine isn't right i know that much...wish i knew how to do it RIGHT
Old 09-01-2013, 09:24 PM
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5.7L, 11:1, MS4 camshaft, big flow heads, distributor setup, locked out at 32
Old 09-02-2013, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Doug G
This is where 3Pedals has me, but I did lower the initial some to 33-34ish

That's what he recommended for you. Its more of a drag race curve than anything. That curve is set up with a 4000 stall in mind as you can see it gets the timing back down by the time the converter stall "locks". I would be reluctant to run that much timing on pump gas and day to day driving. I would just set the map and a regular timing curve.
Old 09-02-2013, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by The stunningman
That's what he recommended for you. Its more of a drag race curve than anything. That curve is set up with a 4000 stall in mind as you can see it gets the timing back down by the time the converter stall "locks". I would be reluctant to run that much timing on pump gas and day to day driving. I would just set the map and a regular timing curve.
Ya your right, it is an aggressive curve for sure, with out much give toward street use.
Doug you may be right to cut a couple degrees out of the low rpm like you did, and use a map sensor to add part throttle timing to it. My stick shift loads my engine way harder at low revs than any stalled auto , so I don't think the above curve will be a problem, but every combo wants something different. Basically give it what it wants, you can try more or less *, you won't hurt it at part throttle , but be carefull at WFO.
Old 09-03-2013, 07:45 AM
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32* from 3000 rpms out
Old 09-03-2013, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by The stunningman
That's what he recommended for you. Its more of a drag race curve than anything. That curve is set up with a 4000 stall in mind as you can see it gets the timing back down by the time the converter stall "locks". I would be reluctant to run that much timing on pump gas and day to day driving. I would just set the map and a regular timing curve.
Originally Posted by 3pedals
Ya your right, it is an aggressive curve for sure, with out much give toward street use.
Doug you may be right to cut a couple degrees out of the low rpm like you did, and use a map sensor to add part throttle timing to it. My stick shift loads my engine way harder at low revs than any stalled auto , so I don't think the above curve will be a problem, but every combo wants something different. Basically give it what it wants, you can try more or less *, you won't hurt it at part throttle , but be carefull at WFO.
4.10's, 28" tire, 8" 4500 stall.....I cut the lower RPM timing just because of a little run on after idling for 20+ minutes...seemed to help ?
The car does see "some" street time, but I like to play too
Old 09-03-2013, 03:32 PM
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I have the LS376/515 with a Holley Ultra 750. I took the timing from Pill #6 and bumped the initial timing up to 12 and then went with the rest of the curve provided. Also dropped the MAP curve down by 4 everywhere. Here in CA, we have 91 octane w/ 10% ethanol so taking no chances.

My main reason for posting is that I tried (and failed) to find out how GMPP dyno'd the engine performance reported in their literature. Best I could come up with is this from another site.
"I used to work at SPO headquarters and the GMPP engineer on the LS3 crate engine program ran ALL of them at 27*, that was the sweet spot."
Also found a lot of people reporting that it is useless to dial in too much advance as these motors don't respond the way the small blocks did.
Old 09-04-2013, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by ignatz
Also found a lot of people reporting that it is useless to dial in too much advance as these motors don't respond the way the small blocks did.
Interesting. I've seen a lot of EFI guys say there is no point in going above 27-29°, but carb guys tend to go faster with more.

something to think about.
Old 09-04-2013, 10:28 AM
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I have been messing with carbed LSx's and track testing them for years. I have never saw a N/A Carb'd LSX egine run better at 27 degrees than 30+ degrees.
Old 09-04-2013, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by The stunningman
I have been messing with carbed LSx's and track testing them for years. I have never saw a N/A Carb'd LSX egine run better at 27 degrees than 30+ degrees.
Mine likes exactly 27 degrees, however I have seen many guys with square port heads who like over 30.

You have to take into consideration that we are talking about 3 or 4 different combustion chambers in the heads.

LS2/LS6 (243/799)
LQ4/LQ9 (317)
L92/LS3
5.3

Combustion chambers effect burn rate and timing.

Also, compression ration will effect timing for any given fuel. So, ideal timing will vary for sure.
Old 09-05-2013, 01:24 AM
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Dyno tuned my 6.0 L. Started at 30 total , went to 32, 34 , gained each time. Tried 36 total , no gain. Settled on 34 total. Torque went from 390 lbs/ft at 30 deg, to 435 at 34.
HP only came up about 15 though.



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