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My LM7 build into a 1994 Silverado

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Old 01-27-2013, 08:39 PM
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your build looks killer keep it up. iam goin carburated in my 98 transam soon, my build will be up shortly next week the tear down begins
Old 01-27-2013, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by RabidStreetRacer
Did you still leave all the other wires pluged in to the fuel pump relay? Or did you just cut the gray wire and run the 12v off of the fuse box to the gray wire? For some reason I see myself screwing this simple thing up and messing up my fuel pump, sorry for all the questions.
Answering questions is why I am here. But yes, I did nothing but run the wire to the gray fuel pump wire, left everything else in tact.
Old 01-28-2013, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by monte383sbc
your build looks killer keep it up. iam goin carburated in my 98 transam soon, my build will be up shortly next week the tear down begins
thanks man, its been a fun build. Make sure you get the MSD box and not the edelbrock box for your carb setup. It is so easy to run.

Thanks Zone, i'm going to try it around 2pm today and see if it works. I realized I have to get a smaller belt now because I used my old alternator. Hopefully I can find that today.
Old 01-28-2013, 01:15 PM
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Used a stock belt with my stock alternator. The tensioner took the slack fine.
Old 01-28-2013, 09:44 PM
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If your using the stock in tank pump just leave all the relays and stuff alone. Adapt the oil pressure gauge sender. Get a holley regulator use the lower port as the inlet from the stock pump. Route one of the side ports to the carb and route the other to the return line. The trick is to put a restriction in the return side and drill a 1/16" hole in it to limit the amount of fuel returning to cool the pump and bleed of pressure. Then just set with a pressure guage to 6.5 PSI.
Old 01-29-2013, 07:50 AM
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I got my stock belt to work, was looking at it the wrong way. I have a holley billet fuel pressure regulator with a return line that I am using. I drove the truck this morning, I got about a mile before the temp got up to around 220F. Either the thermostat is stuck or my radiator lines are crossed. I used my stock 1994 radiator. I am on a 24hr shift today so tomorrow I will give it another shot.
Old 01-29-2013, 02:14 PM
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Make sure the block has coolant in it. I had that happen to me before. I am sure you already know that. Just a thought. Nice swap and goodluck with it.
Old 01-29-2013, 02:52 PM
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I looked at some set ups today and realized i crossed the radiator lines, easy fix. I will try to fix that tomorrow. Man what a different feeling it is driving a vehicle with a mild stall converter. I can't wait to fix the bugs and get my SLP Loudmouth II's welded up.
Old 01-29-2013, 03:04 PM
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You fill the block through the water pump? That's how I do it.
Old 01-29-2013, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ZONES89RS
You fill the block through the water pump? That's how I do it.
I just filled the radiator up and continued to top it off over an hour while gravity moved it in a bit. Is that not sufficient enough?
Old 01-31-2013, 05:19 PM
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So I got the heating problem taken care of. I took it for a drive and anything above 3200 rpm it misses and pops. I checked and have power to every spark plug and am not losing fuel pressure, it stays at 7 1/2 psi. What else am I missing?
Old 02-01-2013, 07:19 PM
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Should be 6.5. How does the carb look? New? Used?
Old 02-01-2013, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ZONES89RS
Should be 6.5. How does the carb look? New? Used?
The carb is a used 4160 style 750cfm vacuum secondary that I sent out and had completly rebuilt and converted to a 4150 style carb. They tuned it according to all the specs I had on my truck. I pulled two plugs and noticed that it is very rich, so it must be flooding the engine over 3200 rpm. tomorrow I will lower the PSI on the carb to 6 and try it again.

Old 02-01-2013, 08:39 PM
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That looks like a fat idle mixture.
Old 02-01-2013, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ZONES89RS
That looks like a fat idle mixture.
I reduced the idle till it almost stalled and still had a studder at 3200 rpm's
Old 02-02-2013, 06:44 AM
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Idle mixture not set idle screw. Anyway, you have a wide band o2 setup? Will severly help tuning.
Old 02-02-2013, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ZONES89RS
Idle mixture not set idle screw. Anyway, you have a wide band o2 setup? Will severly help tuning.
I am going to mess with it probably tomorrow and try and lean out the idle mixture. I don't have a wide band yet but have been in the market for one. I plan on taking it to a dyno shop in the next month or so to get it dyno tuned.
Old 02-03-2013, 12:05 AM
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Wide band will help you figure out what is going on with the breaking up.
Old 02-03-2013, 05:55 PM
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I messed with the carb a bit today and noticed my accelerator pump is very stiff, I took the bottom off and everything is in its place and the spring is fine. I think the port might be clogged up. I am going to try and pull it all apart tomorrow or tuesday and figure it out.
Old 02-03-2013, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ZONES89RS
Wide band will help you figure out what is going on with the breaking up.
How do you get the O2 to work on a carbed setup with a MSD 6010? Where do I get the parts?


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