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Engine run video/help!

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Old Sep 24, 2012 | 11:48 AM
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Default Engine run video/help!

here is a thread I started in the conversion section but also wanted some advice here from the fellow carb guys on this noise.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...gine-tick.html
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Old Sep 24, 2012 | 12:44 PM
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Sounds like my 2001 silverado 6.0 when I cold start in the morning. Goes away after I drive it. What weight oil did you use?
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Old Sep 24, 2012 | 01:12 PM
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I used some cheap "PEAK" oil from O'Reilly in the blue jug just for getting the motor started. Im going to change it out tomorrow for some better oil. I think it was 10w-30. I figured I run this oil for a couple of miles let cool and drain and go with my valvoline.
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Old Sep 24, 2012 | 04:13 PM
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14w40 at least, but sae 40 weight is what I would use.
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 06:41 AM
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Ok I'm going to try some 40 weight oil today after work and recheck the welds on headers also
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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 09:20 AM
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Its ironic you say you use PEAK oil... I'm running Peak synthetic oil in my 5.3 and it has an annoying lifter tick on cold start up that goes away as it warms up... I'm wondering if its just the oil
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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 12:59 PM
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I run schaffers syn 20-50 race oil and have no more tick
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Old Sep 30, 2012 | 01:21 PM
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I only picked up the peak oil cause it was cheap and needed oil for a first start up. But I took that out and threw in some cheap Havoline 40w and same sound. So I figured since I haven't put a load on the engine yet, let's go for a first little drive. Did that manual shifting my 700 for about 10 minutes and the noise isn't as bad as it was at first. So advanced had a sell on Valvoline full synthetic so for this next oil changed I'm going to put that in there. My buddy in Houston just built a ls3 and his is also making the same noise with about 3k miles on a new build. Talked to a few more ls1 guys out there and they also have the same noise with no problems. So guess these are just noisey. Idk
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 02:28 AM
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Some after a cam sound like a sewing machine. Sae 50 is good for a greasy junkyard motor as well. I shim the stock pumps and nail 50 psi idle and 80+ in the rpm. Maybe that is why my junkyard dogs have no prob.
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 08:47 PM
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Damn, some of you guys are running some thick *** oil! I am still running the factory recommended 5-30. You know those thicker oils cost some horsepower. I would not doubt it is costing you a tenth.
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 10:47 PM
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did you swap out lifters? i swear morels are all noisy.
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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 06:08 AM
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No man, stock swap engine....won't change lifters until I change can and heads whenever Geoff let me know bout my cam. But noise has actually got a lil more quiet with more running so idk..
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 07:17 AM
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Well good news...I cranked the car up yesterday after work, the noise was very minimal. So i took it on a nice lil 45 min drive and also pushing it up in the rpms. BTW, DAMN THIS FEELS MUCH BETTER THAN MY BUILT 350. Anyways, got home and the noise was damn near gone. Let the car cool, got back in it last night and the noise was COMPLETELY gone. Talk about a big smile on my face. Only problem I have now is that the car is running rich, hopefully I get that situated today or tomorrow. Also it has a fast idle to it also and thats with the idle screw turned all the way out.
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 01:21 PM
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Where is the timing? That can be a issue with the idle, too much at idle will keep RPM up.

Good to hear about the noise, but these engines run really hard in stock form, with a carb conversion and headers, no cam, you are around 400 HP. So, where a 350 needs a cam AND vortec or better heads just to be. Rich idle needs to have the idle mix screws turned in. How far are they out?
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 03:07 PM
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Im using the curve pill 4 with the MSD 6010. Havent had a chance to connect it to my laptop yet. I have to get an adapter for the other end of the cord to plug into my laptop. Are these pills not as good as doing it with the computer? The idle mixture screws are turned 1.5 turns out. Too far out? I will try turning them in today after work. And yes my previous engine had worked vortecs and cam and it still didnt feel this good, sounded good but damn sure didnt feel like this.
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 03:48 PM
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The pills suck. Custom curve on the lap top is the way to go. Will feel like a whole different engine.
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 04:12 PM
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Will give that a try soon as I make it home...thanks
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 12:57 PM
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Timing is at 15* @ 0, 28* @1000, and like 34* @3000 and up...Thats what the stock timing was IF I RECALL...I meant to post it last night but was kinda tired. Spent MOST of the time looking at this screen trying to figure out on how to work this thing. Does anyone have a baseline timing for a stock 6.0? I've read thru the MSD6010 timing but it seems most have modded engines.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 02:55 PM
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Stock timing for a 6.0 was EFI, they used less than we need, your issue should be the timing at idle. Set it to 20* from 0 to 1000, ten ramp it all in by 2000 RPM at 32* and leave it flat all the way across just for a base line.
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