A1000 fuel regulator questions
01-21-2013, 11:08 PM
#1
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A1000 fuel regulator questions So I'm getting ready to plumb fuel for my carb swap 02 z28. And I have a couple questions relating to nitrous plumbing with aeromotive 13204 regulator.
So first thing is, is that the a1000 regulator has two ports that are regulated. I was curious if I could use one port (-6 an) to run a fuel rail or log for the two bowls of the carburetor and then use the other port (-6 an also) for a fuel solenoid later on down the road for a plate kit. Now if I was was to run something like that my question is will one -6 an port be enough to support up to say 600 horse for when the motor is NA.
My other question is say that isn't the best way to plumb the fuel. Say I ran both ports to there own bowl (each fuel regulator port goes to a bowl) then I just put a T fitting in one of those carb feed lines to pull for nitrous later on down the road would that work.
Basically long story short is it possible to run a a1000 regulator with a nitrous kit and to not need additional regulators along with it.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
So first thing is, is that the a1000 regulator has two ports that are regulated. I was curious if I could use one port (-6 an) to run a fuel rail or log for the two bowls of the carburetor and then use the other port (-6 an also) for a fuel solenoid later on down the road for a plate kit. Now if I was was to run something like that my question is will one -6 an port be enough to support up to say 600 horse for when the motor is NA.
My other question is say that isn't the best way to plumb the fuel. Say I ran both ports to there own bowl (each fuel regulator port goes to a bowl) then I just put a T fitting in one of those carb feed lines to pull for nitrous later on down the road would that work.
Basically long story short is it possible to run a a1000 regulator with a nitrous kit and to not need additional regulators along with it.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
01-22-2013, 06:37 PM
#3
What you have described is almost exactly how I am plumbing my system, except I am using the additional dead head regulators after the 13204 to independently regulate my nitrous fuel pressure from my carb. This not only allows independent adjustability, but also allows you to run the pressure a little higher at the bypass reg (say 15lbs) to help deal with demand when the fuel solenoid opens.
My A1000 pump feeds a 13204 regulator via -8 line. From there, one -6 line feeds a Holley 12-803 dead head regulator regulates and feeds my carb. This has proven to be plenty of fuel for the motor NA so far. I'm probably in the 550fwhp range.
A second -6 line from my 13204 reg feeds a second Holley 12-803 that will feed the fuel solenoid for my NOS Big Shot kit. Here's some pics of the Aeromotive regulator that shows how it feeds the two Holley regulators and the carb.This pic is pre-nitrous install.
And here is a pic of my in-progress nitrous install. The fuel noid isn't fully plumbed yet but I think the picture is clear as to how it will be plumbed to the 803 regulator. Again, this intall is still in progress and hasn't been tested by me yet, but I've seen several others do it this way.
I'd also be curious what Aeromotive tells you if you speak with them, but my research has shown that it's not advisable to plumb your nitrous and carb from the same regulator without the additional regulators added in for separate adjustability/pressure stability (but people still do it). Also, what pump are you planning to run? Aeromotive rates the A1000 pump as being capable of supporting 1200hp in a carb'd forced induction application or 1500hp in a carb'd NA application but you didn't state what pump you will use?
My A1000 pump feeds a 13204 regulator via -8 line. From there, one -6 line feeds a Holley 12-803 dead head regulator regulates and feeds my carb. This has proven to be plenty of fuel for the motor NA so far. I'm probably in the 550fwhp range.
A second -6 line from my 13204 reg feeds a second Holley 12-803 that will feed the fuel solenoid for my NOS Big Shot kit. Here's some pics of the Aeromotive regulator that shows how it feeds the two Holley regulators and the carb.This pic is pre-nitrous install.
And here is a pic of my in-progress nitrous install. The fuel noid isn't fully plumbed yet but I think the picture is clear as to how it will be plumbed to the 803 regulator. Again, this intall is still in progress and hasn't been tested by me yet, but I've seen several others do it this way.
I'd also be curious what Aeromotive tells you if you speak with them, but my research has shown that it's not advisable to plumb your nitrous and carb from the same regulator without the additional regulators added in for separate adjustability/pressure stability (but people still do it). Also, what pump are you planning to run? Aeromotive rates the A1000 pump as being capable of supporting 1200hp in a carb'd forced induction application or 1500hp in a carb'd NA application but you didn't state what pump you will use?
01-22-2013, 07:30 PM
#4
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I have 2 walbro 255lph pumps in tank with stock line. Would you be able to go farther into as to why one shouldn't run the nitrous and carb off the same regulator. I guess I just don't see why one could but I love to be enlightened lol
01-22-2013, 08:12 PM
#5
Cool. That sounds like plenty of pump capacity. I don't know how much fuel volume the stock 3/8 line is capable of providing but I'm sure plenty of guys are making it work. I'm personally running a single 1/2 line. You may want to check around the nitrous forum on that.
Well......I can give you my reasons in my own language and then provide you with what Aeromotives FAQ page says about the issue.
The first reason is because I want to be able to fine tune my nitrous system with fuel pressure instead of buying a bunch of fuel jets in single increments. Most baseline tunes start in the 5.5 to 6 psi (flowing) range. I prefer to run my carb fuel pressure in the 6.5 to 7 psi range. Many will debate a carb doesn't need that much; but that's my personal preference. So, there is no way to achieve this without setting up with three regulators (OK....maybe 2, but read on).
Secondly, if you have a single bypass regulator for both nitrous and carb, your total fuel system pressure (pressure before and after the reg) will be affected (set) by that single regulator. When your nitrous solenoid initially opens, you could expect to see an initial drop in fuel pressure to both your carb and nitrous system until the pump can recover the pressure in the entire system with enough fuel to supply both demands (carb and nitrous). This is much like a temporary hole in the line. That temporary drop in pressure could lead to a bad lean spike and set you on a path to destruction.
However, if you run three regs (bypass and two dead heads) you can set the bypass pressure higher (say 15psi). That way the dead head regs are both receiving plenty of "extra" fuel at all times and you are much less likely to get a drop below your dead head settings when the nitrous solenoid opens. In fact, you may get a slight rich condition for a moment but chances are you'll get a simultaneous large and complementary hit of nitrous as well. Some go as far as to put a restricted (with a jet) bypass line out of their nitrous dead head regulators to keep the pressure more consistent, but the necessity for this is something even the experts can't even seem to agree upon. My unprofessional opinion is that it is overkill.
Now, straight from Aeromotives FAQ:
I’m using a bypass style regulator for my carbureted fuel system. I want to install a nitrous kit. How do I set up a second regulator, either static or bypass, to control nitrous fuel pressure?
To avoid engine damage, be VERY careful with this one! Adding a second bypass regulator and attempting to set it for a lower pressure than the primary regulator, would default the entire fuel system to the lower pressure, creating a potential lean-out condition. Connecting a static regulator to a typical bypass system, with no more than 7-8 psi available, creates insufficient inlet pressure to the static regulator (12-15 psi is normally recommended). The result is reduced fuel flow through the static regulator and/or poor pressure regulation to the nitrous fuel solenoid, another potential lean-out condition. Short of installing a separate fuel system for the nitrous (highly recommended), the only option is to raise the bypass regulator set-point to 15-25 PSI, creating enough line pressure to feed two static regulators, each set for the proper carb and nitrous fuel pressures desired.
Hope this helps. I don't claim to be an expert but this is what I've learned through my research.
The first reason is because I want to be able to fine tune my nitrous system with fuel pressure instead of buying a bunch of fuel jets in single increments. Most baseline tunes start in the 5.5 to 6 psi (flowing) range. I prefer to run my carb fuel pressure in the 6.5 to 7 psi range. Many will debate a carb doesn't need that much; but that's my personal preference. So, there is no way to achieve this without setting up with three regulators (OK....maybe 2, but read on).
Secondly, if you have a single bypass regulator for both nitrous and carb, your total fuel system pressure (pressure before and after the reg) will be affected (set) by that single regulator. When your nitrous solenoid initially opens, you could expect to see an initial drop in fuel pressure to both your carb and nitrous system until the pump can recover the pressure in the entire system with enough fuel to supply both demands (carb and nitrous). This is much like a temporary hole in the line. That temporary drop in pressure could lead to a bad lean spike and set you on a path to destruction.
However, if you run three regs (bypass and two dead heads) you can set the bypass pressure higher (say 15psi). That way the dead head regs are both receiving plenty of "extra" fuel at all times and you are much less likely to get a drop below your dead head settings when the nitrous solenoid opens. In fact, you may get a slight rich condition for a moment but chances are you'll get a simultaneous large and complementary hit of nitrous as well. Some go as far as to put a restricted (with a jet) bypass line out of their nitrous dead head regulators to keep the pressure more consistent, but the necessity for this is something even the experts can't even seem to agree upon. My unprofessional opinion is that it is overkill.
Now, straight from Aeromotives FAQ:
I’m using a bypass style regulator for my carbureted fuel system. I want to install a nitrous kit. How do I set up a second regulator, either static or bypass, to control nitrous fuel pressure?
To avoid engine damage, be VERY careful with this one! Adding a second bypass regulator and attempting to set it for a lower pressure than the primary regulator, would default the entire fuel system to the lower pressure, creating a potential lean-out condition. Connecting a static regulator to a typical bypass system, with no more than 7-8 psi available, creates insufficient inlet pressure to the static regulator (12-15 psi is normally recommended). The result is reduced fuel flow through the static regulator and/or poor pressure regulation to the nitrous fuel solenoid, another potential lean-out condition. Short of installing a separate fuel system for the nitrous (highly recommended), the only option is to raise the bypass regulator set-point to 15-25 PSI, creating enough line pressure to feed two static regulators, each set for the proper carb and nitrous fuel pressures desired.
Hope this helps. I don't claim to be an expert but this is what I've learned through my research.
01-22-2013, 08:24 PM
#6
Oh, and for what it's worth......if you're wondering how others have gotten away with improper nitrous fuel systems in the past, my opinion is this: I think it's a combonation of a lot of carbs being run too rich and outdated nitrous jetting recommendations being way too rich! In other words........if they were throwing way to much fuel at the motor to begin with, the initial "lean" spike from an inadequate fuel system probably wasn't all that lean. Ironically, the mixture they got with the lean spike was probably closer to optimal than when the fuel system recovered.....LOL. Again....just my guess.
01-31-2013, 06:09 PM
#7
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Ok so I figured that I'm going to just run a standalone for nitrous later on down the road...my next question is we're is my fellow carb 4th gen guys putting your regulator. Just wanna get some different ideas. If we could post pics that would be even better!
