Stainless collector bolts?
#1
Stainless collector bolts?
Anyone try using stainless hardware for the header collector bolts? Thought I would upgrade to some more durable hardware when I replaced the head gaskets, but when I went to re-torque the bolts the two I checked were seized. I bought them at Fastenal so assume they were good quality.
Wondering if I should replace them with the same but apply antiseize, or switch back to standard hardware.
Sanderson sells a set cheap enough
http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sand...e-8-set-6.html
Wondering if I should replace them with the same but apply antiseize, or switch back to standard hardware.
Sanderson sells a set cheap enough
http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sand...e-8-set-6.html
#2
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Typical "hardware store" quality stainless bolts are low-grade 304/316 alloy. Weaker than mild steel, and prone to seizing/galling if no lube used in a stainless/stainless combo (nut and bolt). Weaker than grade 5 steel bolts in fact. Even grade 5 bolt steel is heat treated; 316 SS cannot be hardened.
That said, they should be good enough for collector flanges, just use some anti-seize on the threads. And maybe a split lock washer to keep some tension on it.
ARP makes some stronger SS stuff but cost goes up.
That said, they should be good enough for collector flanges, just use some anti-seize on the threads. And maybe a split lock washer to keep some tension on it.
ARP makes some stronger SS stuff but cost goes up.
#3
Man, that was weird. The driver's side bolts were all seized and not clamping tight enough. They all broke as I tried to unbolt them. The passenger side were all just loose and unbolted with no drama.
Here's a tip. Used M8 head bolts are perfect for collector flanges. They have a flange head and a 10 mm vs. 13 mm nut for extra wrench room. I did cut them down a bit. It only took me 40 years of wrenching to finally learn to thread a nut on a bolt before cutting it shorter. Unscrewing the nut is the final touch to clean up the threads following the cut.
Learned another trick. Used sticky wax to hold the lock washer onto the nut when threading it on with a socket. The stainless washers were non-magnetic.
Here's a tip. Used M8 head bolts are perfect for collector flanges. They have a flange head and a 10 mm vs. 13 mm nut for extra wrench room. I did cut them down a bit. It only took me 40 years of wrenching to finally learn to thread a nut on a bolt before cutting it shorter. Unscrewing the nut is the final touch to clean up the threads following the cut.
Learned another trick. Used sticky wax to hold the lock washer onto the nut when threading it on with a socket. The stainless washers were non-magnetic.