MSD 6010 problems..again! READ and HELP lol
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Ok guys, I've had my car running over a year now with no issues. I backed the car off the trailer one day and left it running, it died and that was that, 6010 had burnt up.
I had a spare MSD (from previous experience) so I put it on and the car cranked up. Sent the box back to MSD and they replaced it no problem.
Well when I put the new 6010 on, the first time I fired it the car back fired thru the carb. Never did it again, BUT ever since the car is hard to start. I mean I have to spin it 30-45 seconds before it will fire. Sometimes patting the gas seems to help so I went thru everything to check carb and found no issue.
I took the car to the track and had put the same custom map in as the last box, made a hit and the car was off. Pulled the plugs and looked like too much timing. I pulled 3 degrees and the car picked back up to where it used to be and plugs look good. I've been running it this way for a while now, but it wouldn't start for me the other day so I need to get this fixed.
I've tried 3 different MSD 6010 boxes, 3 different crank sensors, and 2 different cam sensors. checked all grounds and postive cables. Even ran + and - directly to the battery. and replaced the MSD harness.
Problem still persists. When I have laptop hooked up, I never lose signal. I did the test of unhooking the coil packs and spinning the motor over and watch RPM output on laptop and I get nothing. Once in a blue moon I'll see it move.
It will crank and run sometimes and when it does it will fire several times, if I let the car sit more than 5 minutes it won't crank again. I've been back over the carb and can't find anything leaking down there.
Trouble shooting guide on MSD says if No RPM signal shows on laptop replace crank sensor which I've done or could be bad reluctor.
Well this motor has been rebuilt, but is a stock crank and I've been running it over a year with no issues.
Any ideas??????
I had a spare MSD (from previous experience) so I put it on and the car cranked up. Sent the box back to MSD and they replaced it no problem.
Well when I put the new 6010 on, the first time I fired it the car back fired thru the carb. Never did it again, BUT ever since the car is hard to start. I mean I have to spin it 30-45 seconds before it will fire. Sometimes patting the gas seems to help so I went thru everything to check carb and found no issue.
I took the car to the track and had put the same custom map in as the last box, made a hit and the car was off. Pulled the plugs and looked like too much timing. I pulled 3 degrees and the car picked back up to where it used to be and plugs look good. I've been running it this way for a while now, but it wouldn't start for me the other day so I need to get this fixed.
I've tried 3 different MSD 6010 boxes, 3 different crank sensors, and 2 different cam sensors. checked all grounds and postive cables. Even ran + and - directly to the battery. and replaced the MSD harness.
Problem still persists. When I have laptop hooked up, I never lose signal. I did the test of unhooking the coil packs and spinning the motor over and watch RPM output on laptop and I get nothing. Once in a blue moon I'll see it move.
It will crank and run sometimes and when it does it will fire several times, if I let the car sit more than 5 minutes it won't crank again. I've been back over the carb and can't find anything leaking down there.
Trouble shooting guide on MSD says if No RPM signal shows on laptop replace crank sensor which I've done or could be bad reluctor.
Well this motor has been rebuilt, but is a stock crank and I've been running it over a year with no issues.
Any ideas??????
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When it backfired you may have blown out the powervalve in the carb. You did say you checked the carb, and it doesn't quite sound like your problem but just a thought ...?
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Blown power valve is a very possible issue.
But, for your sanity, pull the crank sensor, you should be able to stick a pinky in there. Using the pink finger, if you can feel the reluctor ring and it doesn't move you should be fine. If it is not there or you can move it, or feel it sitting back, you will know it has worked itself off.
It has happened, but hopefully its just a power valve.
But, for your sanity, pull the crank sensor, you should be able to stick a pinky in there. Using the pink finger, if you can feel the reluctor ring and it doesn't move you should be fine. If it is not there or you can move it, or feel it sitting back, you will know it has worked itself off.
It has happened, but hopefully its just a power valve.
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Been fooling with EFI cars the last 10 years or so, can't believe I didn't think of it lol.
Last Friday night at the track, my GF even said, could it be the plugs, sounds flooded to me. Oh she laughed when I told her what fixed it.
Last Friday night at the track, my GF even said, could it be the plugs, sounds flooded to me. Oh she laughed when I told her what fixed it.
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I have a suggestion. I had a hard time firing my car up one time and I tried everything you just said and it still didn't work.
I was told it might be to slow of a cranking speed. I was told the box had to see 200 or 250 rpms to start firing.
Once we put a booster to the battery and whirled the engine faster it fired right up....
And still today I run a 15lb battery that has no reserve to it. If I get caught leaving the water pump and fans on to long it will not start from being to slow...
I say put a booster on yr battery or try another battery all together. Just try it.
I was told it might be to slow of a cranking speed. I was told the box had to see 200 or 250 rpms to start firing.
Once we put a booster to the battery and whirled the engine faster it fired right up....
And still today I run a 15lb battery that has no reserve to it. If I get caught leaving the water pump and fans on to long it will not start from being to slow...
I say put a booster on yr battery or try another battery all together. Just try it.
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Power valve in carb was problem, but I did trouble shoot what you said and found 0 RPM's on mine even hooked to a booster. It has 150rpm with all the plugs out. Gonna look into that at some point.