Not too impressed with my times.. Need a little advice (VIDEO)
#42
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I ran my 1983 Olds Cutlass at the strip last weekend and I have some tuning to do..
The best time I ran was a 14.1 @ 97mph... my best 60ft was a lousy 2.1... the rest was a string of mid 14s... I've seen guys stab stock 5.3s in heavy cars and run better times!! What am i doing wrong?!?
I'm running a 2001 5.3 with an early LS1 cam, RPM intake 750 Q-jet. F-body manifolds to 2.25 x-pipe and glass packs.. The engine is healthy, it has over 100k on it but it has good compression and oil pressure.
The rest of the drive train is all Buick Grand National.. with a BQ code Th2004r with the D5 converter 2500 stall and an 8.5 rear with 3.73s
The car weighs 3500lbs ish
I shift at 5800... watch the video... I had 0 traction issues but I coulda walked out of the hole faster... I'm wondering if its my timing curve.. I was running the #4 pill until we chucked it... Im running total timing of 34 degrees but its not all in until 3000rpm...
The best time I ran was a 14.1 @ 97mph... my best 60ft was a lousy 2.1... the rest was a string of mid 14s... I've seen guys stab stock 5.3s in heavy cars and run better times!! What am i doing wrong?!?
I'm running a 2001 5.3 with an early LS1 cam, RPM intake 750 Q-jet. F-body manifolds to 2.25 x-pipe and glass packs.. The engine is healthy, it has over 100k on it but it has good compression and oil pressure.
The rest of the drive train is all Buick Grand National.. with a BQ code Th2004r with the D5 converter 2500 stall and an 8.5 rear with 3.73s
The car weighs 3500lbs ish
I shift at 5800... watch the video... I had 0 traction issues but I coulda walked out of the hole faster... I'm wondering if its my timing curve.. I was running the #4 pill until we chucked it... Im running total timing of 34 degrees but its not all in until 3000rpm...
Get your timing in sooner. I would ramp it up from 1000 to all in at 2000 RPM. To find the ideal timing you are going to have to do it with track testing. My preferred method is start at 26 degrees total and increase it 2 degrees at a time until the car runs the most MPH.
Also, ask some of the guys in the regular other Tech forums like internal engine what they are shifting their "bolt on" cars at the track. I think I remember them saying around 6200 RPM.
The converter is the stock D5 Grand National Converter... which stalls at 2500RPM... yes yes im sure they are 3.73s I had the cover off and I counted the teeth ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Truthfully my goal was to run mid 13s... I felt it was a reasonable goal.. I am running the stock springs at the moment.. With LS6 springs on the bench to go in very soon...
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Truthfully my goal was to run mid 13s... I felt it was a reasonable goal.. I am running the stock springs at the moment.. With LS6 springs on the bench to go in very soon...
#43
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BeeterOlds I am right there with you, just a little disappointed with my first round of 1/4 mile times. Maybe sharing data will help us both out
EDIT: Forgot car details
1973 Nova
3500LB including 260LB driver
Mild performance rebuild TH350
2200 stall convertor
Open 2.90:1 rear end
245 BF Goodrich Radial T/As
Engine:
-Junkyard '03 5.3 with 80K-COMPLETELY STOCK
-Good consistent compression in all holes
-Rebuilt Demon 750, still in tuning stages
-Edelbrock dual plane
-MSD 6010 18° initial, 34° all in at 4000
-Ebay SS 4th gen F-body headers, 2 ¾ primary, 3” collectors
-Dual 3” to Thrush mufflers dumped at axle
-Stock truck coils/wires
-New NGK TR55 plugs
Performance:
Elapsed Times: 15.1sec, 14.6sec, 14.3sec
60” times: 2.4 sec, 2.7sec, 2.25sec
Trap Speeds: 96.4 MPH, 94.6MPH, 94.06MPH (and 99.7MPH on an old fashion flag drop race)
EDIT: Forgot car details
1973 Nova
3500LB including 260LB driver
Mild performance rebuild TH350
2200 stall convertor
Open 2.90:1 rear end
245 BF Goodrich Radial T/As
Engine:
-Junkyard '03 5.3 with 80K-COMPLETELY STOCK
-Good consistent compression in all holes
-Rebuilt Demon 750, still in tuning stages
-Edelbrock dual plane
-MSD 6010 18° initial, 34° all in at 4000
-Ebay SS 4th gen F-body headers, 2 ¾ primary, 3” collectors
-Dual 3” to Thrush mufflers dumped at axle
-Stock truck coils/wires
-New NGK TR55 plugs
Performance:
Elapsed Times: 15.1sec, 14.6sec, 14.3sec
60” times: 2.4 sec, 2.7sec, 2.25sec
Trap Speeds: 96.4 MPH, 94.6MPH, 94.06MPH (and 99.7MPH on an old fashion flag drop race)
You have elements of your combo fighting each other. The 5.3 is a smaller engine. It needs to get up in the RPMs to do its work. Your tight converter and highway gear does not allow it. However, I bet that car drives around nice and it great out on the open road. If you start going to a performance gears and higher stall, you are going to lose that.
If that were my combo, and I cared about drivability, I would leave it the way it is until I could get my hands on an overdrive transmission with a lock up torque converter. My choice would be a junkyard 4l80e with a controller like Zane has. Then you can put some 4.10 gears and a 3500 stall in there and really have some fun without losing your cruising ability.
#44
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The throttle is opening all they way, I've checked several times....
My headers just arrived... I got them at a very reasonable price so i'm not out much in the way of costs....
Summit Racing has LS6 springs for 65 bucks.... I can't go wrong with that and Im going to swap in some new valve seals while I have the turd apart...
I'm not gunning for miracles but I would be pleased with a 13.5 when its all said and done... I know if I wanna go any faster I'll need a cam, higher stall and steeper gears...
But I don't want to take away any driveability from my setup... It runs great on the street.
When I raced.. I had removed the air filter... the carb did NOT bog hesitate or anything as I've said before..
My headers just arrived... I got them at a very reasonable price so i'm not out much in the way of costs....
Summit Racing has LS6 springs for 65 bucks.... I can't go wrong with that and Im going to swap in some new valve seals while I have the turd apart...
I'm not gunning for miracles but I would be pleased with a 13.5 when its all said and done... I know if I wanna go any faster I'll need a cam, higher stall and steeper gears...
But I don't want to take away any driveability from my setup... It runs great on the street.
When I raced.. I had removed the air filter... the carb did NOT bog hesitate or anything as I've said before..
#45
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The throttle is opening all they way, I've checked several times....
My headers just arrived... I got them at a very reasonable price so i'm not out much in the way of costs....
Summit Racing has LS6 springs for 65 bucks.... I can't go wrong with that and Im going to swap in some new valve seals while I have the turd apart...
I'm not gunning for miracles but I would be pleased with a 13.5 when its all said and done... I know if I wanna go any faster I'll need a cam, higher stall and steeper gears...
But I don't want to take away any driveability from my setup... It runs great on the street.
When I raced.. I had removed the air filter... the carb did NOT bog hesitate or anything as I've said before..
My headers just arrived... I got them at a very reasonable price so i'm not out much in the way of costs....
Summit Racing has LS6 springs for 65 bucks.... I can't go wrong with that and Im going to swap in some new valve seals while I have the turd apart...
I'm not gunning for miracles but I would be pleased with a 13.5 when its all said and done... I know if I wanna go any faster I'll need a cam, higher stall and steeper gears...
But I don't want to take away any driveability from my setup... It runs great on the street.
When I raced.. I had removed the air filter... the carb did NOT bog hesitate or anything as I've said before..
Honestly my car runs faster with the air filter on. Even with the ram air set-up. However I have a K&N open top. It seems that the filter "supposedly" straightens out the charge instead of allowing the unmetered or disruptive unfiltered air to draw air and fuel out of the carb. Just what I've experienced.
#46
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Ive seen .05 to .10 difference on a few cars in the 1/4 by taking the breather off, SLOWER ! Stunning man speaks the truth. I hate to let the cat out of the bag, but for all the rookies out there, breathers and pump gas are a good thing . I cant count all the cars Ive seen drive their street cars to the track and pull the breather, pump a few gallons of race gas in their 10 to 1 engine, and pull all the crap out of their trunk to "save weight". They just disrupted the air into the carb, cooled the combustion process ( not a good thing) and took 100lbs of ballast out of the trunk. They kill their traction and about 20hp before they even have a chance to screw it all up with a bad launch, LOL! This is of course ,a general statement and in no way is pointed at the OP or anyone else on the thread. Just something Ive noticed over the years.
#47
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Ive seen .05 to .10 difference on a few cars in the 1/4 by taking the breather off, SLOWER ! Stunning man speaks the truth. I hate to let the cat out of the bag, but for all the rookies out there, breathers and pump gas are a good thing . I cant count all the cars Ive seen drive their street cars to the track and pull the breather, pump a few gallons of race gas in their 10 to 1 engine, and pull all the crap out of their trunk to "save weight". They just disrupted the air into the carb, cooled the combustion process ( not a good thing) and took 100lbs of ballast out of the trunk. They kill their traction and about 20hp before they even have a chance to screw it all up with a bad launch, LOL! This is of course ,a general statement and in no way is pointed at the OP or anyone else on the thread. Just something Ive noticed over the years.
The only reason why i pulled the filter is because its one of the Edelbrock foam triangles lol not exactly the best flowing