Katech rod bolts VS ARP rod bolts
10-23-2013, 07:49 PM
#2
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That is what everyone claims but after doing research I found a post where katech bolts were used and it caused the rod to stretch and it needed to be re-sized. There are many people out there who have used these bolts with out re-sizing the rods and claim they are fine and then there are those who have replaced them and had issues. Personally I would have the rods resized or just leave the stock bolts in the car and shift at 6700-6800 rpm.
10-23-2013, 08:36 PM
#3
I just put ARP bolts in mine. I don't know the specs of the Katech and ARP side by side. But the install stretch is the same for both. This leads me to believe that if you followed the Katech instructions (which claim no resize) you could use the ARP bolts in the same manner. Maybe the Katechs have different elasticity than ARP, but I doubt it. Which means either both needs a resize or both can get by without it. And it may come down to install sequence.
So, that's what I decided to do and installed the ARPs, but I followed the Katech instructions (don't break the cap by installing one at a time and do a multi-pass torque sequence). I hope I don't spin a bearing, because I'm going to run mine without a resize.
So, that's what I decided to do and installed the ARPs, but I followed the Katech instructions (don't break the cap by installing one at a time and do a multi-pass torque sequence). I hope I don't spin a bearing, because I'm going to run mine without a resize.
10-24-2013, 09:23 AM
#4
guess i'm lucky. never lost a stock rod bolt shifting 7k+. banged the 7,500 limiter quite a few times on my 99 LS1 that supposedly has the weakest rod bolts. the only time i would consider changing rod bolts is on a fresh engine build. if it has a stock bottom that has never been apart, leave it alone IMO.
stock rod bolts arent strong enough. if it is on the internet it must be true
stock rod bolts arent strong enough. if it is on the internet it must be true
10-24-2013, 06:12 PM
#7
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Technically, you can't re-size the LSx cracked cap rods. You can only give them a light hone and hope you don't end up being oversized, sacrificing bearing crush. Just don't put them in and then expect to immediately take your engine to 7500+. That's the majority of the problem people see and post about. When you over use the rods, the big end gets pulled into an oval. No rod bolts or reconditioning will prevent this. The sides of the rod bearings get pinched into the journal, the oil film is broken and voila, spun bearing.
I'd put in a set of Clevite H-Series bearings with a higher crush and a medium to high eccentricity while you're doing the bolts to protect against this if you're bent on high rpm's.
So to actually answer your question, Either bolt should work as a drop in rod bolt.
Shaun
Edit*
After reading the rest of this thread I noticed there is a lot of misinformation in this thread! Do not confuse what you remember from that 350 SBC you built 20 years ago with these LSX motors. It's far and few between to find an LS1 rod that you can actually resize.
These rods ( what the OP is talking about, LS1 cracked cap) are what is called a powder forged connecting rod. When these rods are manufactured they are all one piece and then scored at the parting line of the big end of the rod and cracked to separate the two. Some cracks go straight across, some go at a steep angle and some have a step in the crack. When you separate the rod and put it back together it fits perfectly. I'm sure you guys have noticed the way a rod cap on an LS1 is all jagged and rough, its not broken straight across. So you can't grind either surface flat because the material you would need to remove to get both surfaces flat would be way to much.
I'd put in a set of Clevite H-Series bearings with a higher crush and a medium to high eccentricity while you're doing the bolts to protect against this if you're bent on high rpm's.
So to actually answer your question, Either bolt should work as a drop in rod bolt.
Shaun
Edit*
After reading the rest of this thread I noticed there is a lot of misinformation in this thread! Do not confuse what you remember from that 350 SBC you built 20 years ago with these LSX motors. It's far and few between to find an LS1 rod that you can actually resize.
These rods ( what the OP is talking about, LS1 cracked cap) are what is called a powder forged connecting rod. When these rods are manufactured they are all one piece and then scored at the parting line of the big end of the rod and cracked to separate the two. Some cracks go straight across, some go at a steep angle and some have a step in the crack. When you separate the rod and put it back together it fits perfectly. I'm sure you guys have noticed the way a rod cap on an LS1 is all jagged and rough, its not broken straight across. So you can't grind either surface flat because the material you would need to remove to get both surfaces flat would be way to much.
Last edited by Na306StAnG; 10-24-2013 at 06:38 PM.
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10-24-2013, 10:16 PM
#9
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