Beater build s10
11-18-2013, 02:49 PM
#1
Beater build s10 Well boys, scored my beater truck that will get the LS carbed 6 speed treatment.
4.8, 5.3, either way, performer RPM with a 650 mechanical Holley. Looks like headman makes some 1 3/4 headers for just over 250$. Have the edelbrock 2215 cam sitting on the shelf awaiting duty.
Not sure what to do as far as mounts, but I'll see if a muscle car pan will fit. I'll cut the K member and use a piece of tubular steel after I plate the inside. Custom drive shaft as usual. Doubt I will have one that can be cut down.
Will use a 12 inch bullet dumped, 3 inch Y pipe. Should sound as good as the rest.
Rear, not sure yet, but a explorer 8.8 is supposed to fit and I should be able to use some deep 4th gen offset wheels. Will just need some wheels that fit the bolt pattern or have the axles drilled for 5 on 4 3/4.
Going to get a 92-95 master cylinder for the clutch and a longer braided line. That's what I have seen so far that others do.
800$ truck and runs like a 2.8. Drive home with no issues.
4.8, 5.3, either way, performer RPM with a 650 mechanical Holley. Looks like headman makes some 1 3/4 headers for just over 250$. Have the edelbrock 2215 cam sitting on the shelf awaiting duty.
Not sure what to do as far as mounts, but I'll see if a muscle car pan will fit. I'll cut the K member and use a piece of tubular steel after I plate the inside. Custom drive shaft as usual. Doubt I will have one that can be cut down.
Will use a 12 inch bullet dumped, 3 inch Y pipe. Should sound as good as the rest.
Rear, not sure yet, but a explorer 8.8 is supposed to fit and I should be able to use some deep 4th gen offset wheels. Will just need some wheels that fit the bolt pattern or have the axles drilled for 5 on 4 3/4.
Going to get a 92-95 master cylinder for the clutch and a longer braided line. That's what I have seen so far that others do.
800$ truck and runs like a 2.8. Drive home with no issues.
11-18-2013, 03:01 PM
#2
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My muscle car pan didnt require a cut k member. I also made my own mounts and laid a 1/4" plate between the pan and k member to keep proper clearance. Keep us posted!
11-18-2013, 03:11 PM
#4
Thanks guys, sorry I never got the 91 RS project off the ground. I lost interest in it. Don't know why. Guess I didn't want another street car. Something about a street truck sounds so fun. Cannot wait to put my GT steering wheel in the truck, this factory piece with non adjustable steering column is not too easy for my big *** to climb in and out.
Wonder if the truck power steering pump will clear the steering box? I don't think it does on the second gen.
Wonder if the truck power steering pump will clear the steering box? I don't think it does on the second gen.
11-18-2013, 03:38 PM
#5
Thanks guys, sorry I never got the 91 RS project off the ground. I lost interest in it. Don't know why. Guess I didn't want another street car. Something about a street truck sounds so fun. Cannot wait to put my GT steering wheel in the truck, this factory piece with non adjustable steering column is not too easy for my big *** to climb in and out.
Wonder if the truck power steering pump will clear the steering box? I don't think it does on the second gen.
Wonder if the truck power steering pump will clear the steering box? I don't think it does on the second gen.
11-18-2013, 05:56 PM
#7
Looks like its hit or miss on the pump. Depends on how high up your mounts raise it, Blazers fit fine with the extra motor mount plate that raises the about 1.5 inches. Always like to see more first gen builds 
Just be careful about the smaller plastic dorman pullies, they don't like anything past 6500, lol. Seen too many shattered
Brp has the longtubes for 700, stainless works has an 1 7/8 set for 840. They are about 8 inches shorter than the brps
Just be careful about the smaller plastic dorman pullies, they don't like anything past 6500, lol. Seen too many shattered
Brp has the longtubes for 700, stainless works has an 1 7/8 set for 840. They are about 8 inches shorter than the brps
Last edited by snook; 11-18-2013 at 06:01 PM.
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11-18-2013, 06:11 PM
#8
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My power steering pump didnt fit. Im running the brp 1-7/8 headers that run outside of the frame and you gotta set your engine to the headers if you go that route. My suspension made contact with my header and dented the tubes so thats sucky
11-18-2013, 06:12 PM
#9
I like my BRPs. They are for a second gen Camaro, but they have nice ,long connectors and the fit is good. The ceramic coating is holding up great too. FYI...They are made by Hedman. Mine are in the Hustler line.( High performance version, like Hookers Super Comp line)
11-18-2013, 06:37 PM
#10
Well, hopefully I can make the pulley work, if not I will try to find a option that does.
Headers will be the mid length headmans that are 1 3/4. The BRPs I wanted are twice that in mid length. I cannot justify the cost of full lengths on a truck that is getting a small cam and is not made for maximum performance.
Headers will be the mid length headmans that are 1 3/4. The BRPs I wanted are twice that in mid length. I cannot justify the cost of full lengths on a truck that is getting a small cam and is not made for maximum performance.
getter rolling money bag lol
11-18-2013, 07:44 PM
#12
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I'll be watching looks like there's 3 of us all starting s10 ls swaps, I'm collecting all the parts now need headers, mounts and a trans along with some other misc. bs. Being on a budget I'll probably be using the mounts and headers from CPW. Also will the h3 oil pan clear on that model? I know it does on the newer ones with no cutting just hangs a little lower.
11-18-2013, 08:22 PM
#13
Good question, been on other forums looking for answers. Would like as solid of a mount as possible. Thinking 4.10 gears for those fun launches at the track when I decide to go out there and beat up on other street rides. Banging gears to the track and back.
11-18-2013, 09:45 PM
#15
You seem to like modifying stuff so here's a tip for you. You can get a explorer rear with disc brakes and pick whatever ratio you want. Look in the door axle code D4 is 3.73 posi D2 is 4.10 posi. Open units will have 2 numbers like 17 or whatever. If you want to do a mini spool the open unit is the way to go. While at the pick a part grab a extra short side axle shaft (PS). The explorer rear has one axle 2 7/8 inches shorter than the other. Hell if your crafty pull the long side axle while your there and just shove the extra short side axle in the rear. The great thing about the 8.8 Trac lok posi unit is it can be easily rebuilt and modded tear it apart and restack the clutches clutch steel clutch instead of the double steel stacking method. rebuild kit is $59 and you could just reuse one of your best old clutches for each side. It also has a large pin in it.
The STOCK explorer rear is 59.5" with disc brakes. Shortened you would be about 56.5". You can use 15 x 8" 5 1/2" back space wheels if you want to go that route.
The next best method on a 8.8 would be to get a box style ranger 8.8 (Pre-93 I think). They came in the 4.0 equipped rears and grab a extra short side axle out of another box style ranger. Cutting this rear down and installing the short axle will come up just about a inch NARROWER than the stock S10 rear. Again rebuildable posi but smaller 28 spline axles and smaller than the 31 spline pin.
The rounded style ranger could be used and be stock width I believe. The biggest con is the ford bolt pattern. The biggest pro is these rears sell around $60.00 at any pick a part.
You could complete any of these in a day with some effort and fabrication.
The STOCK explorer rear is 59.5" with disc brakes. Shortened you would be about 56.5". You can use 15 x 8" 5 1/2" back space wheels if you want to go that route.
The next best method on a 8.8 would be to get a box style ranger 8.8 (Pre-93 I think). They came in the 4.0 equipped rears and grab a extra short side axle out of another box style ranger. Cutting this rear down and installing the short axle will come up just about a inch NARROWER than the stock S10 rear. Again rebuildable posi but smaller 28 spline axles and smaller than the 31 spline pin.
The rounded style ranger could be used and be stock width I believe. The biggest con is the ford bolt pattern. The biggest pro is these rears sell around $60.00 at any pick a part.
You could complete any of these in a day with some effort and fabrication.
Last edited by The stunningman; 11-18-2013 at 09:52 PM.
11-18-2013, 10:33 PM
#16
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The h3 pan is the one I have. Same as the muscle car swap pan fyi. And I have the ford 8.8 explorer rear and I gotta use the 2 short axles for the swap. Winter project as well as the kb 2.8lc and forged engine build...
11-18-2013, 10:51 PM
#17
Cpw poly mounts are nice and solid, decent price. Lots of adjustablity in them.
I used the muscle car pan from jegs, just make sure you don't have damaged parts, gm just throws the bolts and all loose in their package, and jegs just ships it out that way. It is flush with the crossmember on my blazer, had to move the brake line off crossmember
Good info here v8s10.org. not much lsx action, but good write ups on rear ends and whatnot
I used the muscle car pan from jegs, just make sure you don't have damaged parts, gm just throws the bolts and all loose in their package, and jegs just ships it out that way. It is flush with the crossmember on my blazer, had to move the brake line off crossmember
Good info here v8s10.org. not much lsx action, but good write ups on rear ends and whatnot
11-19-2013, 03:37 AM
#18
You seem to like modifying stuff so here's a tip for you. You can get a explorer rear with disc brakes and pick whatever ratio you want. Look in the door axle code D4 is 3.73 posi D2 is 4.10 posi. Open units will have 2 numbers like 17 or whatever. If you want to do a mini spool the open unit is the way to go. While at the pick a part grab a extra short side axle shaft (PS). The explorer rear has one axle 2 7/8 inches shorter than the other. Hell if your crafty pull the long side axle while your there and just shove the extra short side axle in the rear. The great thing about the 8.8 Trac lok posi unit is it can be easily rebuilt and modded tear it apart and restack the clutches clutch steel clutch instead of the double steel stacking method. rebuild kit is $59 and you could just reuse one of your best old clutches for each side. It also has a large pin in it.
The STOCK explorer rear is 59.5" with disc brakes. Shortened you would be about 56.5". You can use 15 x 8" 5 1/2" back space wheels if you want to go that route.
The next best method on a 8.8 would be to get a box style ranger 8.8 (Pre-93 I think). They came in the 4.0 equipped rears and grab a extra short side axle out of another box style ranger. Cutting this rear down and installing the short axle will come up just about a inch NARROWER than the stock S10 rear. Again rebuildable posi but smaller 28 spline axles and smaller than the 31 spline pin.
The rounded style ranger could be used and be stock width I believe. The biggest con is the ford bolt pattern. The biggest pro is these rears sell around $60.00 at any pick a part.
You could complete any of these in a day with some effort and fabrication.
The STOCK explorer rear is 59.5" with disc brakes. Shortened you would be about 56.5". You can use 15 x 8" 5 1/2" back space wheels if you want to go that route.
The next best method on a 8.8 would be to get a box style ranger 8.8 (Pre-93 I think). They came in the 4.0 equipped rears and grab a extra short side axle out of another box style ranger. Cutting this rear down and installing the short axle will come up just about a inch NARROWER than the stock S10 rear. Again rebuildable posi but smaller 28 spline axles and smaller than the 31 spline pin.
The rounded style ranger could be used and be stock width I believe. The biggest con is the ford bolt pattern. The biggest pro is these rears sell around $60.00 at any pick a part.
You could complete any of these in a day with some effort and fabrication.
11-19-2013, 04:26 AM
#19
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This looks like it's gonna be a cool build. I just got my engine mounted in my Ranger. No way in hell the stock truck acc are gonna clear my steering box. I'm looking at using the Holley LS bracket, raises the pump up higher.
11-19-2013, 06:22 AM
#20
Zane, I dont know if BRP sells their mounts separately , but they are very solid and the only movement they have is the narrow Poly bushing in the side that bolts to the engine. Big bonus, the headers are designed to work perfectly with their mounts. I know you like to fab stuff, and so do I, but a straight drop in with the headers and mounts is trouble free. BRP can give you all the info on the power steering, etc, to use with their mounts and save a little headache there too.
