krochus

iTrader: (1)

I had the car running earlier in the week for appx half an hour, started and restarted it a few times. On the last startup the engine never smoothed out and ran right and ever since then NOTHING

I've got a strong 12v (even straight from the batt) to the box. Good grounds at the harness, coil connector, body to motor and batt.

I'm awaiting a map sensor. But I didn't have one on initial startup. As well as a cable from this millennium to get the box to talk to my laptop.

I've changed pills, and verified I have no spark at the plugs.

Help will be greatly appreciated.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

May not be rolling over fast enough. You read the stickie above? Has a ton of info in there.

krochus

iTrader: (1)

It seems to crank over strongly and busted off quickly enough when it did start previously.


Will the tachometer output tell me if the box is reading a CPS signal?

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

You need a lap top hooked up. It will throw a code if it can and you can watch it register any cranking signal, as well as voltage to the box.

krochus

iTrader: (1)

Cable arrived today and for the few minutes before it stopped working (serial port...really? What is this 1997?) I was registering a cranking speed of 140 rpm + or - 5 and a high 12 to low 13 volt range depending on my battery charger state.

For whatever reason the car started tonight and ran briefly before it almost seemed like the ignition strength just sorta tapered off. Along the lines of...start and run strong...died....start and halfway run momentarily....crank and hit a few times....crank nothing.

My gauge shows a respectable alternator output when running. But my battery charger is an automatic suchmacer that's been kinda wonky for the past couple years. I'm beginning to suspect my battery isn't as hot as IT thinks it is. But then again the car cranks and indicates a strong charge.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

Don't forget possible fuel and vac leak issues.

You might try pulling the plugs and see if they fouled out.

krochus

iTrader: (1)

I'm not hurting for fuel. Vacuum is under control.

No it's the ignition as I've verified no spark coming out of the coils.

The strange thing is why am I showing a crank signal but no spark?

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

I was told by MSD that it had to spin 200 rpm's to fire, But mine has fired as low as 150-170 rpm's.
If you wanna see if this is it, take all plugs out and put one in the wire and crank it to see if that one plug starts to fire. The motor will spin faster with out the plugs in it and this is how I got the first spark to show up on mine.

You may need a hotter battery. This was my problem at first.
Also, make sure the pc is hooked to the box and they are communicating.

krochus

iTrader: (1)

I've been pondering the slow crank issue and am thinking I should change a couple things.

I'm running two starter solenoids. The stock fender well mustang unit and the starter mounted one on my 03 surburban starter. I'm wondering if I can get a few more amps to my starter if I bypass the mustang solenoid.

I also need to get a package of star washers for all my ground connections to the block as a JIC measure.

I load tested my battery and it tests OK @91% charge on 800cca dura last gold.

krochus

iTrader: (1)

I'm just about at my wits end with this flaming POS " non" ignition system.

I've load tested my 850cca battery and it's fine.

I've gone over all my grounds and buffed em with emery cloth

I've tried powering the box directly from the battery

I've taken the stock mustang solenoid out of the loop

I'm about to go pickup a big battery charger with a 40A start function

If this don't work I guess my next step is to send my junk back to msd hoping they can help me. It's been the better part of a month now I've been fighting with this thing and so far the box has decided to actually spark a grand total of TWO times with absolutely no indication of why it decided to do so.

snook

iTrader: (1)

Seems like I have read this several times before. I believe the last guy hooked it up to 24volts and spun it over, then switched back to the 12v and it was fine, fired right up. Ill try to find the link


Edit-if its not spinning 230 rpm or so its not gonna spark. I had a similiar issue with a weak older battery that just didnt have enough ***. It would show 12volts and would fire up my old pick up. It turned it over just fine sounded like to me, but would randomly fire. Tried a new battery and it worked. I never would have thought it would do that. The old battery is still on my old pickup and starts it just fine. Just didnt work on the new motor

Here is the above posters issue too
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...ition-box.html

krochus

iTrader: (1)

It's like the stupid thing is toying with me now.

Shortly after posting the infernal thing started again!!!!

I had to shut it down due to a fuel leak but to my ear it sounds like it's cranking really strong now since bypassing the OE mustang solenoid

pov427

did you end up finding the problem at all mate ????

I've just done a 6ltr conversion into Monaro and its done same thing fired up half dozen times or so ( didn't have rad hoses done so couldn't run it for long) take too get exhaust hooked up and decides too run for 1 min or so while I got it off the truck then wouldn't refire for the boys too put on the hoist then refired once I got back there to pick it up shut it off then hasn't fired since, gets 150rpm while no plugs in and doesn't register any rpm when all back in place also shows spark while no plugs in too any suggestions ????

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

My engine builder has a 6012 box and is pissed off at it. He cant get it working properly so it is coming out of his car soon.

Sadly enough I'm considering putting the 6010 I had in my race car into a rat rod truck I picked up. I had good luck after chasing a small problem for two years.