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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 07:37 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by A-Dub
The radiator doesnt know how close it is to the engine nor is the engine preventing air from moving through the radiator. .
Oh yes it does. Block the front or the rear of the radiator and the result is the same.

Ask anyone who's done a s10 v8 swap or owned a 4.0 powered jeep xj and they'll tell you the same thing. Airflow AFTER the radiator matters and you have very little of it.
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 05:58 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Pop N Wood
Now that I can see the pictures I see what you mean. Was thinking the vette water pump.

I'm just guessing at this point. Are you losing any coolant? Possible head gasket leak?

Just how hot is it getting? Fan set points?
Did compression test last night. All cylinders were 210-215 psi
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Old Oct 13, 2014 | 07:51 AM
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Its been 8 months, any updates?
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Old Oct 13, 2014 | 08:48 AM
  #44  
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The QF did not care for the orifice style PCV (the previous holley didn't care?). Once we put a vacuum style PCV in line, we then needed a different power valve. Those changes allowed for the carb to be tuned and driveability was great.

Still had the issue of running hotter than I would like and once it was warm, diesel on shutdown. Ended up installing a solenoid on the throttle so the blades would close completely at shutdown.

The truck still runs warmer than I think it should , but it has zero driveability issues. I have too many other projects right now to care that its not 100% perfect.
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Old Oct 13, 2014 | 09:10 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by A-Dub
The QF did not care for the orifice style PCV (the previous holley didn't care?). Once we put a vacuum style PCV in line, we then needed a different power valve. Those changes allowed for the carb to be tuned and driveability was great.

Still had the issue of running hotter than I would like and once it was warm, diesel on shutdown. Ended up installing a solenoid on the throttle so the blades would close completely at shutdown.

The truck still runs warmer than I think it should , but it has zero driveability issues. I have too many other projects right now to care that its not 100% perfect.
I have been searching for the issue I have been working on, off and on, for a while now.
I can't get my idle down without closing the throttle blades completely, which causes a horrible part throttle drive.
I have lowered the timing to almost 0 which causes engine to heat up at idle, I have also switched from the orifice type pcv to the standard type, I have even blocked off the vacuum line completely, and disconnected all vacuum accessories, and checked for vacuum leaks, all to no avail.

I am running a iron block ls1, 5.3 bored to 3.89, stock 2000 ls1 cam 735 quick fuel carb, vacuum secondaries.
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Old Oct 13, 2014 | 09:25 AM
  #46  
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Definitely sounds like you are getting too much air. Are you running a Performer intake? Did you verify the timing box mounting holes are sealed off?
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Old Oct 13, 2014 | 10:55 AM
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Edelbrock 71187 performer, and I know about the screw hole in the intake runner, I even went back and sealed the threads with sealer.

Would a single plane intake make a difference?
What about an open spacer? If the engine was pulling in air and fuel from all 4 barrels would that reduce some velocity? And or vacuum? Currently about 20 inches of vacuum.
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Old Oct 13, 2014 | 11:02 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by jays78
Edelbrock 71187 performer, and I know about the screw hole in the intake runner, I even went back and sealed the threads with sealer.

Would a single plane intake make a difference?
What about an open spacer? If the engine was pulling in air and fuel from all 4 barrels would that reduce some velocity? And or vacuum? Currently about 20 inches of vacuum.
I would try and get my hands on a known good carb before I swapped intakes.

What is the current power valve size?
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Old Oct 13, 2014 | 11:28 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by A-Dub
I would try and get my hands on a known good carb before I swapped intakes.

What is the current power valve size?
Power valve is 8.5

Carb is brand new quick fuel 735 cfm

I had a used 650 road demon on it first, and I just knew that it was causing all my problems, $535.00 later, still the same!

Maybe a cam change? I don't know I am not giving up yet, engine runs great, just idles like crap.
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Old Oct 13, 2014 | 01:13 PM
  #50  
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Wish I was more of a guru on this, but Im not. With that much vacuum, I wouldn't be worried about the cam.

I ended up using professional assistance to get mine sorted. It was cheap and quick! If you are near Houston, let me know and I will point you towards the man.
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Old Oct 13, 2014 | 02:57 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by A-Dub
Wish I was more of a guru on this, but Im not. With that much vacuum, I wouldn't be worried about the cam.

I ended up using professional assistance to get mine sorted. It was cheap and quick! If you are near Houston, let me know and I will point you towards the man.
With that much vacuum, a new cam can get rid of some of it.

I am in Atlanta area, to be more specific, I am 5 miles from summit racing in McDonough GA.
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Old Oct 13, 2014 | 09:42 PM
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A dub thanks for your input, every bit helps.
I have a 3 inch tall open spacer , I will have to take my hood off to road test it.
I will keep you posted
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