Alternator on carb application
03-31-2014, 10:23 AM
#1
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Alternator on carb application So I'm down to figuring out how to get this thing to charge
What alternator are you carb guys using with ur setup the one I have is a truck one(4wire) PCM controlled so this won't work correct? I think I read somewhere about a resister?
Does any if this make sence?
Can some one give me some insight?
What alternator are you carb guys using with ur setup the one I have is a truck one(4wire) PCM controlled so this won't work correct? I think I read somewhere about a resister?
Does any if this make sence?
Can some one give me some insight?
03-31-2014, 10:53 AM
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People put a resistor or dummy light on one of the wires on the plug and it works.
I on the other hand bypassed the internal regulator and wired a external voltage regulator to the field post inside the alternator. No issues here. If you have a bad internal regulator I suggest you do this for 15$ vs throwing away the alternator.
I on the other hand bypassed the internal regulator and wired a external voltage regulator to the field post inside the alternator. No issues here. If you have a bad internal regulator I suggest you do this for 15$ vs throwing away the alternator.
03-31-2014, 02:15 PM
#3
You don't need the computer to run any of the GM alternators. You do need some type of resistance on the voltage sensing wire on some (but not all) GM alternators. To be safe most guys just go ahead and wire up the resistance.
There must be 1000 "how to" threads on wiring an alternator. Just don't make it more complicated than it needs to be. Some guys like going to a true 1 wire alternator. I don't see the point in that, hooking up the extra wire doesn't seem like much work to me.
If you are really industrious or hurting for space it doesn't even have to be a GM alternator. Being carb'd we don't need all the amps the EFI guys do. I run an 85 amp denso alternator cause it is a good bit smaller than GM stuff.
There must be 1000 "how to" threads on wiring an alternator. Just don't make it more complicated than it needs to be. Some guys like going to a true 1 wire alternator. I don't see the point in that, hooking up the extra wire doesn't seem like much work to me.
If you are really industrious or hurting for space it doesn't even have to be a GM alternator. Being carb'd we don't need all the amps the EFI guys do. I run an 85 amp denso alternator cause it is a good bit smaller than GM stuff.
03-31-2014, 04:32 PM
#5
The computer controlled alt will work but will lock out at 13.8 volts. They need all the other sensors to work right. Get a 94 s-10 alt. Its smaller ...has 105 amps. And only need one keyd wire to work
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04-01-2014, 03:24 AM
#8
I do one of two things, use a 87-92 third gen v8 alternator, 88-94 half ton v8 alternator, one side fits like stock and the other side you remove the dowel and use a couple washers and it works fine, no resistor, no anything.
Option two, a vortec 96-98 v8 truck alternator, looks like the stock LS alternator but requires no resistor and is good to go.
Option two, a vortec 96-98 v8 truck alternator, looks like the stock LS alternator but requires no resistor and is good to go.
04-11-2020, 05:14 PM
#10
I do one of two things, use a 87-92 third gen v8 alternator, 88-94 half ton v8 alternator, one side fits like stock and the other side you remove the dowel and use a couple washers and it works fine, no resistor, no anything.
Option two, a vortec 96-98 v8 truck alternator, looks like the stock LS alternator but requires no resistor and is good to go.
Option two, a vortec 96-98 v8 truck alternator, looks like the stock LS alternator but requires no resistor and is good to go.
