msd 6010 problem???
09-30-2014, 08:00 PM
#61
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Just out of curiosity, what spark plugs are you running? And when was the last time you checked them.
The reason I asked is because I had a problem similar to this while I was dialing in my carbed, and ended up I lean fouled a set of plugs. Changed out the plugs and the car quit falling all over its self. Hope this helps, Eric L
The reason I asked is because I had a problem similar to this while I was dialing in my carbed, and ended up I lean fouled a set of plugs. Changed out the plugs and the car quit falling all over its self. Hope this helps, Eric L
10-04-2014, 09:48 AM
#62
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Just out of curiosity, what spark plugs are you running? And when was the last time you checked them.
The reason I asked is because I had a problem similar to this while I was dialing in my carbed, and ended up I lean fouled a set of plugs. Changed out the plugs and the car quit falling all over its self. Hope this helps, Eric L
The reason I asked is because I had a problem similar to this while I was dialing in my carbed, and ended up I lean fouled a set of plugs. Changed out the plugs and the car quit falling all over its self. Hope this helps, Eric L
I just put a set of plugs in and there tr5's i think i migjt have got it but still have some carb tuning to do just havent had the time to get out there and do it im new to carbs so i go some learning to do
10-07-2014, 03:50 PM
#64
You might consider moving your lower range setting of your timing curve to start at 200 to 300 RPM instead of 600 RPM . It may be less likely to stall if the idle drops to 600 RPM or below.
Having the timing curve flat throughout the idle range will help promote a more consistent idle.
Also, when you are ready to delve into getting your MAP settings correct, you can check out this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/carburete...dtigger-p.html
In regards to the stumble when you aggressively open the throttle, this is almost always related the the accelerator pump system if this car is equipped with a Holley. Most guys end up with accelerator pump discharge nozzles in the .037" - .040" range.
As for the idle mixture screws, I generally like to run them as far closed (clockwise/lean) as possible and still maintain good idle and off idle behavior. The leaner you can run the idle the better as it will keep the plugs cleaner, not burn your eyes with fumes and not waste fuel.
Last edited by speedtigger; 10-07-2014 at 03:58 PM.
10-07-2014, 07:37 PM
#65
Sorry Speed , We have the Holley 950 Ultra HP on ours and we were having trouble getting our motor to run right. We do have quite a bit of compression though. 260-265lbs at cranking. Was supposed to be 13.5:1 but with that kind of cylinder pressure I think its more. I called Holley and the tech guy told me that it has a direct relationship with getting enough fuel at idle. You are not supposed to touch the primary or secondary screws. They are supposed to be at 20 thousandths open so you don't expose to much of the transfer slots. And the mixture screws are not supposed to be any more than 3/4 turn and a 1/2 turn being optimal. All the tuning is done with the jets. They also said, in no way should you ever touch the bleeds. So when you get it right, you will be between 1/2 and 3/4 turn out according to the vacuum gauge. We are at 100 jets with a 3.5 power valve in the front. And 110 jets and power valve blocked in the back. Oh by the way they don't come with jet extensions. If we dropped the timing less than 6 at 0 it would labor to start. Brother this bad boy thumps. We are at 3/4 turn out and getting ready to go higher on the jets. It doesn't even make 1 revolution and it fires. Even when Hot. And when you shut it down it just goes quite. The throttle response is unreal. When we went higher with the timing than 6 at 0 it would diesel when you shut it down. Ours idles at 1200rpm as long as you want it to idle, too.
Last edited by TTur1996; 10-07-2014 at 08:26 PM.
10-07-2014, 07:42 PM
#66
Oh ya, and you adjust the idle with a new set up under where you would screw in the stud for the air cleaner called the idle ease. It replaces the need to drill holes in your throttle plates. A simple call to Holley will confirm.
10-07-2014, 07:50 PM
#67
Haven't got ours to the track yet due to we both got our hours cut. We have a turbo 350 in it which will never handle the power. We are getting a 400 with a Yank but it might take a little while yet. Last two pieces of the puzzle. Sucks but I'm pretty sure we won't be able to hit the track till next season. We are pretty bummed about it but it is what it is. You know.
10-07-2014, 08:03 PM
#68
Haven't even touched the squirters yet. And no eye burning either.
10-07-2014, 08:30 PM
#69
That new Ultra you have is an interesting piece. Some of those new features are pretty cool. I have not played with one yet on a car, so I can't speak to its new features. However, the tech guy saying that you never have touch the bleeds and such sounds pretty optimistic.
10-07-2014, 09:44 PM
#72
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We just got done messing with mine and idel wise it sounds awesome only when low rpm driving between 1800 and 3k rpms or trying to launch the car do i start to get problems. So whenever its under a load it starts missing and breaking up also had a few little carb fires just trying to stab it off idel
10-07-2014, 09:48 PM
#74
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Another weird thing when messing around under the hood with the car while its running driverside burns the **** out of your eyes and reaks but if your on the passenger side of the motor your fine and header bolts are all tight no sign of a exhaust leak either
10-07-2014, 09:54 PM
#76
They have bowl drains that are a real nice feature. It is doing and acting just exactly like the guy said it would as the jets were increased. So I guess it works for us for now. But we got a E85 1050 quickfuel going on there once we finally get it broke in. So at least we will get to take it to get it dynoed this winter.
10-07-2014, 09:56 PM
#77
Should be four
10-07-2014, 09:58 PM
#78
How high are your float bowls? And what is your fuel pressure?
10-07-2014, 09:59 PM
#79
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[QUOTE=speedtigger;18465162]Is it fussy when you are cruising at a sustained speed or just when you are accelerating under a load?
Say if i go to stab it from a 20 roll it will break up and act all retarted for a second or two the same as trying to launch the car and when your just cruising u can hear it kinda like miss from time to time before. When i thought i had an ignition problem on the way home from a 50mile cruise it started acting retarted out of nowhere it started missing, sputtering, poping like crazy barely limped the car back home im linking that to a loose power on the batt till it does that again hopefully thats fixed but it still has the same cruising light miss and btw the squirters are set at 31p and 35s and idel screws are out 1 1/2 turns
Say if i go to stab it from a 20 roll it will break up and act all retarted for a second or two the same as trying to launch the car and when your just cruising u can hear it kinda like miss from time to time before. When i thought i had an ignition problem on the way home from a 50mile cruise it started acting retarted out of nowhere it started missing, sputtering, poping like crazy barely limped the car back home im linking that to a loose power on the batt till it does that again hopefully thats fixed but it still has the same cruising light miss and btw the squirters are set at 31p and 35s and idel screws are out 1 1/2 turns