Help me get my carb in the ballpark.
04-03-2016, 04:55 PM
#1
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Help me get my carb in the ballpark. Obviously, I know that the best way would be to tune with a wideband. Since I've owned the vehicle it's had a smoking issue at WOT that I've been trying to figure out. Pulled the carb apart to check it today, and its been into before. I'm wondering if maybe its carb smoke I've been seeing. Here's a video:
Setup is:
2000 GMC Jimmy
5.3/th350
torquer v2
vic jr
shorty headers
4k converter
3.42s
3420 w/o driver
runs 8.20's with a 1.8 60'
The carb is a 750 double pump mechanical secondaries. Jets: 73h/84 Squirters 28/31, pink pump cams, appears to be 30cc accelerator pumps (don't know for sure how to identify it.)
That seems a little on the rich side to me. Is that in the ball park, or could that be my smoking issue?
Setup is:
2000 GMC Jimmy
5.3/th350
torquer v2
vic jr
shorty headers
4k converter
3.42s
3420 w/o driver
runs 8.20's with a 1.8 60'
The carb is a 750 double pump mechanical secondaries. Jets: 73h/84 Squirters 28/31, pink pump cams, appears to be 30cc accelerator pumps (don't know for sure how to identify it.)
That seems a little on the rich side to me. Is that in the ball park, or could that be my smoking issue?
04-03-2016, 07:04 PM
#3
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Black = fuel
Blue/gray = oil
White = coolant
I think you're sucking oil into the intake.(or at least the combustion chamber)
Done a leak down test or compression test yet ?
Blue/gray = oil
White = coolant
I think you're sucking oil into the intake.(or at least the combustion chamber)
Done a leak down test or compression test yet ?
04-09-2016, 02:03 PM
#5
How do the plugs look?
I think you should just dyno the vehicle, get a real wideband report and go from there. Power valves blocked means no additional fuel from pressure drop- so your main/secondary jets have to be larger to compensate I guess, and you have no "economy mode", that is a strictly race engine. Especially with that non-lockup 3-speed behind it.
That said, once you find out how much power you are making, and determine the air fuel ratio the motor runs at, you can take a couple extra passes on the dyno to dial in the timing a bit, and then decide how much more power the motor can support (say you are at 380 now, but you know the motor will hold 450~) just add nitrous for seasoning to taste.
I think you should just dyno the vehicle, get a real wideband report and go from there. Power valves blocked means no additional fuel from pressure drop- so your main/secondary jets have to be larger to compensate I guess, and you have no "economy mode", that is a strictly race engine. Especially with that non-lockup 3-speed behind it.
That said, once you find out how much power you are making, and determine the air fuel ratio the motor runs at, you can take a couple extra passes on the dyno to dial in the timing a bit, and then decide how much more power the motor can support (say you are at 380 now, but you know the motor will hold 450~) just add nitrous for seasoning to taste.
04-14-2016, 03:01 AM
#6
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How do the plugs look?
I think you should just dyno the vehicle, get a real wideband report and go from there. Power valves blocked means no additional fuel from pressure drop- so your main/secondary jets have to be larger to compensate I guess, and you have no "economy mode", that is a strictly race engine. Especially with that non-lockup 3-speed behind it.
That said, once you find out how much power you are making, and determine the air fuel ratio the motor runs at, you can take a couple extra passes on the dyno to dial in the timing a bit, and then decide how much more power the motor can support (say you are at 380 now, but you know the motor will hold 450~) just add nitrous for seasoning to taste.
I think you should just dyno the vehicle, get a real wideband report and go from there. Power valves blocked means no additional fuel from pressure drop- so your main/secondary jets have to be larger to compensate I guess, and you have no "economy mode", that is a strictly race engine. Especially with that non-lockup 3-speed behind it.
That said, once you find out how much power you are making, and determine the air fuel ratio the motor runs at, you can take a couple extra passes on the dyno to dial in the timing a bit, and then decide how much more power the motor can support (say you are at 380 now, but you know the motor will hold 450~) just add nitrous for seasoning to taste.
Edit: Did compression test it, and all was fine. I'm stumped if this doesnt fix the problem. The evac system is just crankcase breathers currently.