testing the theory
testing the theory Well, many say that aluminum blocks have sealing issues (rings) due to flex, and if you use google, then the norm when swapping from aluminum to iron is 30-50 horse gain due to the iron block being more rigid. Hopefully, we will be testing the theory this weekend. After my big wheelstand and doing the stupid thing of lifting, (car felt and most said looked dang near straight up, so much that gas dumped from carb to windshield) and breaking my block in a couple places, oil pan, trans bell housing, bending caster camber plates and hopefully nothing else. I installed the new motor this past weekend. Iron block, gen 3, bored to a 6.2 and put all the 6.2 internals in it. Had trans fixed. On start up, all seemed good, , then a small leak started coming from the rear.I pulled it back apart, and bought a new rear cover and seal with gasket. Hoping the leak is fixed, and we can go out and see if iron is in fact better than aluminum.
Just like you with your fuel line, I have researched and researched more. And, talked to several machinist that say you'd be surprised at the inaccuracy of the factory aluminum blocks. They say they take so much machining to just get it square. And others say even from a mild wreck, they will bring a aluminum 5.3 in for freshening they tell him it was in a wreck, first thing he does is throws it on the line bore machine. He said one was so bad, he would have had to take .080 to get it true, then there was no bearing big enough. I am not looking to gain anything really but the weight. I honestly feel like it will run 6.0s. If it does, a aluminum block isn't worth the extra cost to me.
NHRA Pro Stock & NASCAR use iron but I'd assume iron is a rule in NASCAR.
Long time ago I was told by an old timer that build pro stock & boat racing motors, I remember him saying iron holds the btus in better generating more horsepower.
I guess if you're racing PS where everyone is 2350 it makes sense to use iron.
Most of my stuff is aluminum but if I was starting from scratch & going to use some kind of power adder I'd do an iron 6.0 for the cost & wall thickness.
Long time ago I bought a car off here with a broken 6.0 that was sprayed pretty heavy, rocker arms failed but when I pulled it apart it was .060 over.
Long time ago I was told by an old timer that build pro stock & boat racing motors, I remember him saying iron holds the btus in better generating more horsepower.
I guess if you're racing PS where everyone is 2350 it makes sense to use iron.
Most of my stuff is aluminum but if I was starting from scratch & going to use some kind of power adder I'd do an iron 6.0 for the cost & wall thickness.
Long time ago I bought a car off here with a broken 6.0 that was sprayed pretty heavy, rocker arms failed but when I pulled it apart it was .060 over.
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All of the fastest stock bottom end LS engines are aluminum.
Unless you're making 2000 HP or racing in a very very tight class, then you're just splitting hairs with the aluminum vs iron argument and wasting your own time.
You might gain 6 HP with improved ring stability on an iron block. Its not even worth mentioning most of the time, and it doesn't compensate for the weight difference.
Unless you're making 2000 HP or racing in a very very tight class, then you're just splitting hairs with the aluminum vs iron argument and wasting your own time.
You might gain 6 HP with improved ring stability on an iron block. Its not even worth mentioning most of the time, and it doesn't compensate for the weight difference.
It is nothing like my fuel line. Guys saying it won't work, but it should. We know damn good and well a iron block is going to work. But 30-50 HP NA is what I'm saying is false. No one would run aluminum blocks hardly and the aluminum heads would be skipped over in sure. I have always heard that aluminum can get hotter in some spots than others in the heads. Not a doubt in my mind that aluminum blocks distort massively compared to iron.
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No doubt in my mind it will be within .05 of the aluminum 6.2. it was on a 6.15 pass sat night and it was very hot and humid. In air equal to what my aluminum block went 5.97, I feel this one will be in the upper 5.9 range. 60ft 1.29,110 mph. Did very good for the awful air conditions. Someone said they bet the DA was 3500. idk.
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 4,465
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From: Harford Co. Maryland
Density Altitude:
2036 feet @ 7 @ Memphis
@ 8 Density Altitude: 2279 feet
@ 11 Density Altitude: 2872 feet
http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-...calculator.php
2036 feet @ 7 @ Memphis
@ 8 Density Altitude: 2279 feet
@ 11 Density Altitude: 2872 feet
http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-...calculator.php
But....my best with the older aluminum block was picked up in some cooler night air. So, I think since Ive got the 60 to where it is, once I get some good air and DA comparable to it, I think it will be highly possible to get deep 6.0s, possibly 5.9s. May not have hurt it too much after all. I don't know. Maybe the motor does make more power. May have to make our way back to the sponsors dyno and see what shows on the rollers. And Speedtigger, no thanks on all that extra weight. I'd have to build a 502, Id be back running 6.9s. LOL