No spark! Help!
No spark! Help! OK, so the time has finally come. The engine is back in, everything's hooked up, fluids full.....ready to start!! But it won't start!!!
I checked to make sure I was getting voltage to the coils, The battery has 12.32V, the ignition wire to the box(pink wire) is getting 12.04V. and each coil is getting 12.02V, so they're getting a full 12V, but they aren't firing!! What can be going on?
Where do I go from here?
02 LS1 with MSD 6010 controller.
I checked to make sure I was getting voltage to the coils, The battery has 12.32V, the ignition wire to the box(pink wire) is getting 12.04V. and each coil is getting 12.02V, so they're getting a full 12V, but they aren't firing!! What can be going on?
Where do I go from here?
02 LS1 with MSD 6010 controller.
I did some research, and noticed grounds can be issues. I'm going to go back over everything, and even reground a couple wires.
However, everything is hooked up exactly how it has been for the past few years and it never gave me any issues.
Another issue is that my battery is several years old. It's got voltage, and the engine is turning over somewhat quickly(at least normal to what it always did before). But that doesn't necessarily mean it's got the cranking amps it needs. If redoing grounds doesn't work, I may pull the YT Optima battery from the wife's Mustang momentarily and see if it makes a difference.
However, everything is hooked up exactly how it has been for the past few years and it never gave me any issues.
Another issue is that my battery is several years old. It's got voltage, and the engine is turning over somewhat quickly(at least normal to what it always did before). But that doesn't necessarily mean it's got the cranking amps it needs. If redoing grounds doesn't work, I may pull the YT Optima battery from the wife's Mustang momentarily and see if it makes a difference.
OK, I checked and even redid a couple grounds.......Nothing again.
I hooked up the laptop and opened the GraphView.....I'm not getting any tach signal and the voltage is dropping to 9.7V during cranking.
Is the lack of tach signal a result of bad crank sensor or bad connection?
I hooked up the laptop and opened the GraphView.....I'm not getting any tach signal and the voltage is dropping to 9.7V during cranking.
Is the lack of tach signal a result of bad crank sensor or bad connection?
OK, I grabbed a YT Optima from the wife's Stang. My buddy brought over his Optima charger to analyze the battery and make sure it had a full charge.
One issue is the crank sensor feedback is only showing 2.9V. I just changed the sensor to no avail. It's till showing low voltage. I'm going make, yet again, another trip to the parts store to get a harness pigtail connector. The only other possible conclusion is the plug or the wiring in between is bad.
This is so aggravating, and I'm getting very agitated because I'm on a deadline to get it running to make it to a big event.
One issue is the crank sensor feedback is only showing 2.9V. I just changed the sensor to no avail. It's till showing low voltage. I'm going make, yet again, another trip to the parts store to get a harness pigtail connector. The only other possible conclusion is the plug or the wiring in between is bad.
This is so aggravating, and I'm getting very agitated because I'm on a deadline to get it running to make it to a big event.
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New crank sensor, new crank sensor harness pigtail and connector and still reading low voltage with the switch on. What else could be the problem?
New crank sensor, new crank sensor harness pigtail and connector and still reading low voltage with the switch on. What else could be the problem?
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The problem seems to be that I'm losing signal around the crank sensor area. I ran a jumper wire from the 12V source(pink) wire to the feedback(orange with yellow stripe) wire. With the jumper wire installed, I was getting a full 12.34V at the end of the harness connector(box end). When I reinstall the starter is when I lose voltage and it drops back to 2.8V at the feedback signal(orange with yellow stripe) wire.
Why would the starter have anything to do with interrupting the crank sensor signal?
Looking at the 6010 wiring diagram, all the pinks (12v) are apparently spliced together so you should get the same voltage at all of them. So, key on, check the pinks on the CPS, KPS, and both coil connectors and see if they all read the same. I'd also pull the main connector off the MSD and ohm-check all the pinks. If that all checks out, you might have a bad wire or connector pin...
All pink wires are getting 12+V. I've not thought about ohm checking them. I plan to call MSD in the morning. Hopefully they can tell me something I haven't already tried.
My buddy keeps thinking I have a bad box, but the low feedback voltage is happening before it even reaches the box.
My buddy keeps thinking I have a bad box, but the low feedback voltage is happening before it even reaches the box.
Well, here's where I'm at with this. I've tried every possible combination and used every diagnostic method to find out what's wrong. I even installed a Powermaster High torque starter. Nothing has worked. I've got correct voltage to everywhere that should have voltage. I even hooked up one of the professional chargers with the "engine start" mode on where it boosts an extra 200 Amps.
The only thing left to change is the box itself, so I've ordered a 6014 box. It should be here today, so I'll get it hooked up this evening and let you guys know what happens.
The only thing left to change is the box itself, so I've ordered a 6014 box. It should be here today, so I'll get it hooked up this evening and let you guys know what happens.
CS and CAS Tech Hi Slick, the sensors are HALL with a VERY EASY test method.
The voltmeter probes connect to the sensor ground/signal.
The sensor in hand allows a metal object (ferrous) to be placed at the sensor noise, the pole piece.
The third sensor wire should read the Vss.
You will witness the voltage change on the meter.
Lance
The voltmeter probes connect to the sensor ground/signal.
The sensor in hand allows a metal object (ferrous) to be placed at the sensor noise, the pole piece.
The third sensor wire should read the Vss.
You will witness the voltage change on the meter.
Lance
Got the new 6014 box yesterday, hooked it all up per instructions. Hit the key, still no fire!! The pop-up window tells me cam sensor fault. I go first thing this morning to get a new cam sensor, install it....still nothing, and it still say cam sensor fault.
I'm at a complete loss on this. I've never had a vehicle with an issue like this that I couldn't figure out. I'm at wits end with it!
Anybody ever seen an $80,000 truck bon fire?
I'm at a complete loss on this. I've never had a vehicle with an issue like this that I couldn't figure out. I'm at wits end with it!
Anybody ever seen an $80,000 truck bon fire?