Maybe gonna pull the trigger - 98 Z28 LS1. How much?
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Maybe gonna pull the trigger - 98 Z28 LS1. How much?
Hey folks, first time poster, long time reader.
I got rid of my 85 Z28 and am now jonesin' for a LS1. I'm close to pulling the trigger on one an hour away and would appreciate experts' advice on how much to pay.
Specs: 1998 Z28 LS1, manual tranny, t-tops, 172K on the clock, underneath 'skirt' package, chrome wheels. It appears to be in decent shape from the pictures. They're asking $5,200, but that seems a bit high for a car with fairly high mileage.
Would you pay $4,500? I'm considering a warranty as well, so how about $4,500 w/warranty included (it's around $800 for 7 yrs/100K). Your replies are greatly appreciated.
I got rid of my 85 Z28 and am now jonesin' for a LS1. I'm close to pulling the trigger on one an hour away and would appreciate experts' advice on how much to pay.
Specs: 1998 Z28 LS1, manual tranny, t-tops, 172K on the clock, underneath 'skirt' package, chrome wheels. It appears to be in decent shape from the pictures. They're asking $5,200, but that seems a bit high for a car with fairly high mileage.
Would you pay $4,500? I'm considering a warranty as well, so how about $4,500 w/warranty included (it's around $800 for 7 yrs/100K). Your replies are greatly appreciated.
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That is very high mileage, I have seen 95k miles go for 5000-5500.
I also believe the 98 was a problem year but I cant quiet remember off top of my head what was generally wrong with them. Need someone else in here to reinforce this statement.
I also believe the 98 was a problem year but I cant quiet remember off top of my head what was generally wrong with them. Need someone else in here to reinforce this statement.
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That is true about the 98's being problematic, I can't quite remember what about them is wrong.. think it was something in the bottom end! Ya with those miles i could see it goin for 3500-4000 so 4500 with the warranty would be a good deal! Let us know what happens and post up some pics!
Vince
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98's had a few differences....
They had more restrictive exhaust manifolds, harder to tune, only year for the F-Body to not have the little Black box that records the last moments of data in case of a crash, also had the perimeter mounted valve covers and the coils mounted to the valve covers. (99+ had center bolt valve covers and coils mounted to coil brackets), also the 98 blocks were known for having oiling issues. The block had a poor oil return system, Although you can fix that with a dremel. At the rear of the engine, behind the rear cover, was a couple small holes that needed to be dremeled out like the later 01/02 blocks. The differences go on and on though.
Also the 98 Wiring harness and PCM is completely different than the 99+ however you can buy a 99 pcm and then rewire every pinout on the harness to work with a 99 pcm. But it's a Mother Fu(ker. lol
Better off buying a 99+ harness and PCM if it's that big of a deal to someone!
BTW, I bought my 98 with a blown engine and 80k on it for $2500. With a good engine, I still would've only given him $5k tops! Thats if it was with the same mileage and if it was in good condition.
Well I hope the info above helps you.
And IMO I would rather have the 98, But thats just me. lol
I like to be different! You know, since everybody else passes them up.
I figure since I can't keep an F-Body STOCK, why not save a little cash, buy a 98, and build it up. I would always pull the engine out anyways for an upgraded 1. lol
Check out my build thread. I took my 98 from a POS to a Badda$$ respectable streetcar IMO!
James
They had more restrictive exhaust manifolds, harder to tune, only year for the F-Body to not have the little Black box that records the last moments of data in case of a crash, also had the perimeter mounted valve covers and the coils mounted to the valve covers. (99+ had center bolt valve covers and coils mounted to coil brackets), also the 98 blocks were known for having oiling issues. The block had a poor oil return system, Although you can fix that with a dremel. At the rear of the engine, behind the rear cover, was a couple small holes that needed to be dremeled out like the later 01/02 blocks. The differences go on and on though.
Also the 98 Wiring harness and PCM is completely different than the 99+ however you can buy a 99 pcm and then rewire every pinout on the harness to work with a 99 pcm. But it's a Mother Fu(ker. lol
Better off buying a 99+ harness and PCM if it's that big of a deal to someone!
BTW, I bought my 98 with a blown engine and 80k on it for $2500. With a good engine, I still would've only given him $5k tops! Thats if it was with the same mileage and if it was in good condition.
Well I hope the info above helps you.
And IMO I would rather have the 98, But thats just me. lol
I like to be different! You know, since everybody else passes them up.
I figure since I can't keep an F-Body STOCK, why not save a little cash, buy a 98, and build it up. I would always pull the engine out anyways for an upgraded 1. lol
Check out my build thread. I took my 98 from a POS to a Badda$$ respectable streetcar IMO!
James
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The 1998 was the only year to have an accurate temp gauge. The 99-02 cars just keep the needle straight up and down at 210, unless it overheats or its a cold startup.
Miles aren't as important as condition IMO. If its really clean, then I say go for it. BTW, I paid $7800 last month for my 1998 Z28 ragtop. It has 93k on it and is pretty damn immaculate IMO. Of course convertibles usually go for 1-3k more than a t-top.
Miles aren't as important as condition IMO. If its really clean, then I say go for it. BTW, I paid $7800 last month for my 1998 Z28 ragtop. It has 93k on it and is pretty damn immaculate IMO. Of course convertibles usually go for 1-3k more than a t-top.
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The 1998 was the only year to have an accurate temp gauge. The 99-02 cars just keep the needle straight up and down at 210, unless it overheats or its a cold startup.
Miles aren't as important as condition IMO. If its really clean, then I say go for it. BTW, I paid $7800 last month for my 1998 Z28 ragtop. It has 93k on it and is pretty damn immaculate IMO. Of course convertibles usually go for 1-3k more than a t-top.
Miles aren't as important as condition IMO. If its really clean, then I say go for it. BTW, I paid $7800 last month for my 1998 Z28 ragtop. It has 93k on it and is pretty damn immaculate IMO. Of course convertibles usually go for 1-3k more than a t-top.
I work at a shop, and see it all. I have been in some 300+k mile cars (hondas) that still look new and was shocked to see how many miles were on the car. And JUST TODAY, I was in a 93 ford escort wagon with 73,800 miles on it and was scared to even sit in it. Needless to say after fixing the brakes, outer tie rods, and calipers, I lowered it down from the lift and drove it through the parking lot, across the street and I turned back around and parked it. I advised the owner that the car was unsafe to drive and he gave me some deer in the headlights type of look and said theres nothing wrong with my car, I've been driving it like that for years now. Needless to say, The wheels were about to jump off the damn thing lol, and the axles, ball joints, tires, engine, clutch (OMFG thats a whole nother story hahaha) was all messed up. Some people have NO SENSE when it comes to maintaining a vehicle!
I say just check it over and if the owner will allow you to have an automotive shop check it over I'd Highly Suggest that. If he won't, Then he may be hiding something from you.
At my shop, I do routine checks for people all the time who are looking at buying new cars. I have saved people from making some BIG and COSTLY Mistakes over the years. And for the $25.00 check out fee we charge, I find that most people are grateful to pay that when it comes down to finding out Exactly what they are purchasing! Whether the car is in great shape or a POS.... It's nice to know beforehand!
Good Luck Man!
James
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Thanks for the well thought-out replies! I'm kinda spooked now with the issues the 98's apparently have. I guess when one buys a high-performance car, it's hard to say if the car's been dogged by a teenager or driven by an old lady.
The car's about an hour away, so I'm thinking about making the trip tomorrow, Saturday. It's at one of those smaller dealerships, not a private seller btw (if that matters?). At the current mileage, the car averaged 14.3K/year, which isn't too bad I suppose - it is 12 years old after all.
I'll give it a look and maybe throw a lowball offer at them, maybe get the warranty thrown in for cheap. Of course, "everyone's been asking about the car, so it's gonna go fast!" There's a similar one local (99 LT1) going for $3,600, but I'm really after the LS1, but there's no super hurry so I'll see what their best price is and report back.
The car's about an hour away, so I'm thinking about making the trip tomorrow, Saturday. It's at one of those smaller dealerships, not a private seller btw (if that matters?). At the current mileage, the car averaged 14.3K/year, which isn't too bad I suppose - it is 12 years old after all.
I'll give it a look and maybe throw a lowball offer at them, maybe get the warranty thrown in for cheap. Of course, "everyone's been asking about the car, so it's gonna go fast!" There's a similar one local (99 LT1) going for $3,600, but I'm really after the LS1, but there's no super hurry so I'll see what their best price is and report back.
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So I made the one hour trek around the beltway and checked out the car. The inside was very nice- leather seats, looked pretty clean. The outside was fair/ok. There were some minor dings and road remnants, about average for a daily driver.
I took the car for a drive and noticed it shifted very easy (6 speed, btw). However, there was some shudder when taking off from first gear. It almost felt like the motor was 'spooling' if you will. It didn't feel like a front-end alignment issue, so I'm not sure if that's normal or not.
The car is listed for $5,200. The salesman and I went back and forth for a bit and he came up with $5,400 + included $600 warranty (basically the warranty for $200).
I told him I'll sleep on it and give him a call tomorrow. Either I suck at haggling, which could very well be, or they didn't want to go down on the price. The KBB price is $5,205 retail in excellent condition. I'll probably end up passing on this one and look for a private sale locally...
I took the car for a drive and noticed it shifted very easy (6 speed, btw). However, there was some shudder when taking off from first gear. It almost felt like the motor was 'spooling' if you will. It didn't feel like a front-end alignment issue, so I'm not sure if that's normal or not.
The car is listed for $5,200. The salesman and I went back and forth for a bit and he came up with $5,400 + included $600 warranty (basically the warranty for $200).
I told him I'll sleep on it and give him a call tomorrow. Either I suck at haggling, which could very well be, or they didn't want to go down on the price. The KBB price is $5,205 retail in excellent condition. I'll probably end up passing on this one and look for a private sale locally...
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Just trying to help... And sounds to me the salesman is a DICK if he went from $5200 to $5400+
Pass on this car and find a BETTER deal on here.
Hell for that matter, I have an 02 Z28 (LS1/6 Speed Manual) with 105k on the clock. Was all stock til 1k miles ago. Put on PS Longtubes, and exhaust and the tranny was rebuilt with upgraded parts. It runs great and interior is almost perfect. Outside has been repainted and is so so IMO. But I'll take $7,000 FIRM! Not trying to sound like a Dick, But thats my Bottom Dollar on the car! If this interests you, PM me!
Good Luck OP
James