'69 camaro build
#81
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I know for me jobs like this are impossible to quote. I have a 70 mustang at my shop that I am restoring and it is just a flat per hour rate how ever many hours it takes is what it cost. But I bet looking at the quality of his work and how amazing this car is going to turn out this could be 40-50k in labor alone! People have no idea how many hours go into something like this! Especially of this caliber! Nice build!
#82
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I know for me jobs like this are impossible to quote. I have a 70 mustang at my shop that I am restoring and it is just a flat per hour rate how ever many hours it takes is what it cost. But I bet looking at the quality of his work and how amazing this car is going to turn out this could be 40-50k in labor alone! People have no idea how many hours go into something like this! Especially of this caliber! Nice build!
#83
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If you are having to pay to have it built you are almost always better off buying one already done. But there are a lot of variables that would come into play but on a general basis. I have tried to talk to the owner of this mustang many times but it is sentimental! She is going to end up spending 40k easy on a car that will only be worth 15k when done. But depends on th car you are building as well. Best of luck!!
#84
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If you are having to pay to have it built you are almost always better off buying one already done. But there are a lot of variables that would come into play but on a general basis. I have tried to talk to the owner of this mustang many times but it is sentimental! She is going to end up spending 40k easy on a car that will only be worth 15k when done. But depends on th car you are building as well. Best of luck!!
#85
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If you think about it like this it kinda makes you wonder how much "pro" builds cost.
5 working days a week 52 weeks in a year if you don't count holidays thats 260 days. if its a 8 hour work day thats 2,080 hours at a $55/hr labor rate = $114,400 just in labor for just one person. many shops charge you per person working on the car.
now I have been working on this car since april 2010 and a lot of that has been everyday even if it was only for an hour but there has been many days i've worked from 10 am to 2 am on it.
5 working days a week 52 weeks in a year if you don't count holidays thats 260 days. if its a 8 hour work day thats 2,080 hours at a $55/hr labor rate = $114,400 just in labor for just one person. many shops charge you per person working on the car.
now I have been working on this car since april 2010 and a lot of that has been everyday even if it was only for an hour but there has been many days i've worked from 10 am to 2 am on it.
#88
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If you think about it like this it kinda makes you wonder how much "pro" builds cost.
5 working days a week 52 weeks in a year if you don't count holidays thats 260 days. if its a 8 hour work day thats 2,080 hours at a $55/hr labor rate = $114,400 just in labor for just one person. many shops charge you per person working on the car.
now I have been working on this car since april 2010 and a lot of that has been everyday even if it was only for an hour but there has been many days i've worked from 10 am to 2 am on it.
5 working days a week 52 weeks in a year if you don't count holidays thats 260 days. if its a 8 hour work day thats 2,080 hours at a $55/hr labor rate = $114,400 just in labor for just one person. many shops charge you per person working on the car.
now I have been working on this car since april 2010 and a lot of that has been everyday even if it was only for an hour but there has been many days i've worked from 10 am to 2 am on it.
I will only do one car at a time because its so hard to make money at restorations because the time it takes to do the work its hard to charge for because people would have a heart attack and just cant afford it generally.
Beautiful job so far I cant wait to see this one when its done!!
#89
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I didn't like how the plumbing would run on the first cooler duct I made so I started over.
both of the ready for sand blasting then paint.
passenger side transmission cooler
then we got both of the wheel well lips cut and welded.
to match the rear frame rail pucks I have I laid out the same pattern in the sub frame so much to the pleasure of my painter I won't chip the paint when I put the car on a lift or jack it up.
rough cut the slits
then finished by grinding the rest and finishing the edges
then to finish this update, the rear suspension links and front steering arms back from paint.
both of the ready for sand blasting then paint.
passenger side transmission cooler
then we got both of the wheel well lips cut and welded.
to match the rear frame rail pucks I have I laid out the same pattern in the sub frame so much to the pleasure of my painter I won't chip the paint when I put the car on a lift or jack it up.
rough cut the slits
then finished by grinding the rest and finishing the edges
then to finish this update, the rear suspension links and front steering arms back from paint.
#90
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Just a quick update today. Before body work got too far on the firewall I decided to remove the factory stamped X in the driver tulip and mount the wiper motor there. Since I don't currently own any dimple dies I had to settle for a wood hole and my handy router.
I dimpled the 3 spots where the wiper motor bolts would hit the firewall with a socket and two hammers.
Wiper motor mounted
Then I decided to update the 43 year old wiper transmission with the left over parts from the donor car. With the piece I cut out to shorten one arm I needed to use to make the other one longer.
I also used the larger socket ***** for a low friction squeak free wiper transmission. A quick trip to the sand blaster and they'll be ready for paint.
The bottom of the car is almost ready for paint. One more coat of slick sand and a quick sand and its ready for sealer, primer, seam sealer and paint.
I dimpled the 3 spots where the wiper motor bolts would hit the firewall with a socket and two hammers.
Wiper motor mounted
Then I decided to update the 43 year old wiper transmission with the left over parts from the donor car. With the piece I cut out to shorten one arm I needed to use to make the other one longer.
I also used the larger socket ***** for a low friction squeak free wiper transmission. A quick trip to the sand blaster and they'll be ready for paint.
The bottom of the car is almost ready for paint. One more coat of slick sand and a quick sand and its ready for sealer, primer, seam sealer and paint.
#92
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Thanks!
Car is 90% seam sealed. I was waiting on doing the rear section until after two last things were finished up in the rear. This is one of the two things needed done. Sadly there is a few projects going on with the car that it has been strongly recommended to me that I not post online at this point. Now that they are both done the bare metal will be epoxied and seam sealed then its ready for paint.
Rear tow hook
Car is 90% seam sealed. I was waiting on doing the rear section until after two last things were finished up in the rear. This is one of the two things needed done. Sadly there is a few projects going on with the car that it has been strongly recommended to me that I not post online at this point. Now that they are both done the bare metal will be epoxied and seam sealed then its ready for paint.
Rear tow hook
#94
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This is the most fab work I've ever done. Working at a dealer you never get to do cool stuff. I'm all self taught just looking at pictures of other peoples stuff or seeing it done somewhere.
#96
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Got lots of stuff done over the past few weeks with the little bit of time I've had to work on the car. First we got the watts link bracket and fuel cell cage masked off and painted.
Then after about a week we masked off the freshly painted parts to seal the bottom of the car.
My buddy Jon then got the base coat shot.
Then he got it cleared coated
And today I started finial assembly of the small parts that go on the bottom.
Then after about a week we masked off the freshly painted parts to seal the bottom of the car.
My buddy Jon then got the base coat shot.
Then he got it cleared coated
And today I started finial assembly of the small parts that go on the bottom.
#98
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I don't own any dimple dies. I metal worked out the dimple on a wood buck with a ball peen hammer. The 3 small dimples were done with a socket and two hammers. Cut the hole with a hole saw.
#99
Alright one more question what gauge metal are you using? Hope you don't mind I'm going to copy your way of making the holes and shaping them. Thanks looking forward to your updates.
#100
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since its part of the firewall thats holding the wiper it is 16g. if your doing them for something other than structural then 18g is plenty and a lot easier to work.