nitrodude

New problem...2000 camaro v6 manual.

So since I've purchased this car, every now and then It takes a long crank, or two cranks to get it to start. Other times it starts right up.
last couple months I have been turning the key on, leaving it on, and waiting for the fuel pump to stop then start it. Does okay, But even then sometimes it wont start up.
Couple weels ago I replaced the fuel filter, and it was starting up every time (Still Turning key and wait for pump)

I was out the other night and when I went to start it it took two cranks (waiting for the pump like I had been), And then today, I go to start it and it took the longest its ever taken to start, Turn key, wait, try and start, just cranks. Turn key off/on cycle twice, still just cranks. Tried starting it about 4-6 times before it finally started.

It seems to run great once its running, And it ONLY does this when the engine is "cold" aka first start of the day or after sitting for hours.

Im starting to think the fuel pump is going bad, But i havnt heard any weird noises from it and can still hear it kicking on and off. Looked for a fuel service port in the engine bay, Thought I found it but pushed the shrader in after priming the pump and nothing at all came out? assumed it was the wrong one, even though it was wrapped in a cover that said fuel.

Anything else this could be???
I still have a rattle under my car that is either trans related or heat shield from my exhaust related...dont have a lift available for use at the moment.

nitrodude

Anyone have any ideas?? Anything I can look into?
Anyone know where the fuel service port is to test fuel pressure? Anything??

Nathan C

It could be the fuel pump, battery, or timing chain. My previous dd 1994 Firebird had a hesitation that turned out to be the timing chain. I choose to sell it with 184,000 miles rather than pay 9 hours of labor to get it replaced.
Go to autozone and have them test your battery and alternator for free. That will give you a good start.

97camaroguy

iTrader: (5)

humor me and replace your spark plugs.

nitrodude

I've got about 400ah battery reserve and good voltage from alt (upgrading to a high output alt very soon, any sugestions for 270a+?)
I have a big audio system. So im pretty sure batts arent an issue lol.
Really hope its not the timing chain, anyway to check?

Could the plugs really cause an intermittent hard start? Not sure when the previous owner last changed them but ill buy a set and replace them if you think it'll help. I just don't want to start buying fuel pumps, regulators, optis, timing chains, etc for something bot needed.

Anyone know where the fuel service port is to test pressure?

nitrodude

So just went snooping under my hood and found the real fuel service port on the passenger side of the engine.
Car hasnt been started since yesterday and i pushed the shrader in and it shoot fuel out like a water gun lol.
I'll have to go to autozone to rent a gauge and see what my readouts are.

Before start it should be 41psi-ish? And running 38ish?
Or am i wrong?
I know some people said to pull a vacum hose off the fpr before testing but im not 100% sure where that is under the hood...

nitrodude

Well, New plug vs old plugs Went with ac delco 41-101 since i read those are the best for the v6...$50 later I had 6 of em


White=Lean right? Problem here? Black soot all over threads.

Then went to autozone and tested fuel pressure.

Ignition on, Engine not running, Shot straight up to 44ish psi and stayed.


Engine running idle dead at 40psi


Dipped down a little when revved.

Everyones thoughts??

nitrodude

Seems to start a little easier the last couple times I've started it since changing the plugs.

Is there anything else I can check to be sure the issue is solved?
Do those pressures sound right?

Just want to make sure it is 110% reliable.

nitrodude

Seems to be starting great now.
Only had one problem and pretty sure it was my fault.

But anyways this rattle has been driving me crazy! I was an idiot yesterday and burnt my clutch a little bit, But after that the rattles seemed to quiet down a lot/almost completely. Now today I drive it and its worse then before. I just dont have a life to look under it for rattling parts, Nor do I want to spend a ton at a shop for them to look at it.

WarShrike

iTrader: (5)

Bad rubber somewhere on a bushing probably or you could be like me and have $5 of change under the carpet from the previous owner. I was blown away when I pulled the carpet and found change everywhere.

nitrodude

LOL its definitely under the car, I've already had the carpet pulled up in mine to run a ton of wiring, No change, but a lot of cigarette butts lol. I'm really hoping its a lose heat shield on the exhaust, just worries me that it stopped after i burned my clutch a little lol. and now its worse today.

WarShrike

iTrader: (5)

Very well could be a loose heat shield. Is the rattle present at startup and doesn't change with RPM or vehicle speed? I actually had a bad cat that was doing all the buzzing/rattling.

anheuserbusch08

iTrader: (11)

change your fuel pressure regulator.

NortZ1989

If its the regulator leaking externaly it would run rough for a few seconds after starting by sucking fuel into the intake via the vacuum line. the othe possabilities is the check valve in the pump leaking the pressure off and the regulator could do this also. one way to check is if it has a return fuel line.block it off. iff it still starts hard its the fuel pump check valve.(fuel pump replacement) if it starts okay its the regulator. if no return line its a crap shoot. regulator is farily cheap and aesy to do if on the fuel rail. start there. takes about 10 min if on the rail. Hope this helps.

nitrodude

The rattle is most persistant at 1-3k rpm. Not much of a rattle at idle, Can still hear it a little bit though sometimes. More so when you rev the engine. Does it sitting in neutral, 1st, 2nd the most, cant hear it as much in 3rd-5th probably because of wind noise blocking it. Does it with clutch in or out, Thats why I dont think its a trans issue. It annoys the **** out of me, But I can justify being raped at a muffler shop to get it fixed

And how did you come to this conclusion?

Mine seems to run great after it starts, Although One time it did run a little funky when I first started it.
If you look a few posts up, I did a fuel pressure check and it seems to build pressure and keep pressure?
No idea if i have a return line or not. Or where the regulator is, Looked for it, but not 100% sure what it looks like or where it would be lol.

NortZ1989

If you have a return line you will have 2 lines to the feul rail not one. the regulator is a small round part on the fuel rail with a vacuum nipple on it. The system will build pressure normally but will bleed off over a couple hours or overnight causing your hard start in the morning. since the pressure has bled off it will need to build it again for the car to start. this is the extended crank time or cycling of the key you have been doing. if you block off the return line (if equipped) this will tell you if the regulator is bad or if it the fuel pump check valve. TEST: fuel line blocked, fuel pressure gauge installed,start and run the engine. Shut off engine,monitor fuel pressure. if it holds at least some pressure overnight the check valve in the pump is okay and you rule that out. only other way to bleed off pressure is passed the regulator wich the last step just told you it was bad. hope this helps