2002 Camaro SS #7146 build thread
06-30-2013, 05:39 PM
#82
Got the calipers painted with the G2 kit and added the bfranker caliper decals:
In hindsight, I should have taped off the back of the pad area that was showing. I thought I could avoid hitting them with the brush, but that was unsuccessful. So, I just painted all of it rather than have a mess. I suppose I could pull the pads out and clean it off with some brakleen, though...
In hindsight, I should have taped off the back of the pad area that was showing. I thought I could avoid hitting them with the brush, but that was unsuccessful. So, I just painted all of it rather than have a mess. I suppose I could pull the pads out and clean it off with some brakleen, though...
07-06-2013, 08:42 AM
#84
AIR is all gone:
The best thread with pictures that still works for AIR removal is: https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...air-tubes.html
Also have everything else out and am ready to do the motor mounts. I'm absolutely not looking forward to it, but once that's done I'll be on the home stretch!
All the AIR removal threads do not mention yanking these "protectors" for the AIR pump bolts. I figured I'd just mention them being tossable:
If you've not cleaned behind your ECM, this is what looks like down there:
The best thread with pictures that still works for AIR removal is: https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...air-tubes.html
Also have everything else out and am ready to do the motor mounts. I'm absolutely not looking forward to it, but once that's done I'll be on the home stretch!
All the AIR removal threads do not mention yanking these "protectors" for the AIR pump bolts. I figured I'd just mention them being tossable:
If you've not cleaned behind your ECM, this is what looks like down there:
Last edited by demonspeed; 07-24-2013 at 08:36 AM.
07-06-2013, 10:23 PM
#86
I went with basic painted PaceSetter's. I decided to go as budget friendly as possible for this round of exhaust. I'll upgrade to a good set of 1-7/8" when I do serious engine work.
With that said, I did attempt to try the eBay stainless headers. Take a look at this thread if you're interested to learn why I sent them back: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...primaries.html
07-07-2013, 01:04 AM
#87
I saw your thread. Your issue with them is the EXACT same reason why i skipped them and went to the painted pacesetters. They will literally flake off first start up id try and paint them with some high temp paint before installing. I think itll be worth it. I paid $220 shipped for mine brand new, shopped around and found some coupon codes for some site that had them instock and picked em up.
07-09-2013, 08:35 AM
#88
Anything horrible that one reads about doing motor mounts is true -- they suck. Definitely the worst thing I've had to do to a vehicle. Not that it's necessarily "difficult;" rather just a huge PITA. I hope to get most everything buttoned up tonight and will update with pics and whatnot (just waiting on ECM to get back from Frost).
07-09-2013, 04:16 PM
#89
Anything horrible that one reads about doing motor mounts is true -- they suck. Definitely the worst thing I've had to do to a vehicle. Not that it's necessarily "difficult;" rather just a huge PITA. I hope to get most everything buttoned up tonight and will update with pics and whatnot (just waiting on ECM to get back from Frost).
07-12-2013, 09:46 PM
#90
Here it is – the big update about the header install. After working on it for a few hours a night for nearly a week, I wrapped it up around 2:15am Thursday morning. Here’s the journey…
Using cyberkill’s awesome thread (https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...otsa-pics.html ) as my road map, I started on the motor mounts. As I mentioned previously, it was a complete PITA to do. Nonetheless, I got them in there:
Of course I had to bust something. Fortunately, it was something cheap and easy to get – the coolant temp sensor on the driver side head. A call to the local dealer and I had a new ACDelco replacement (everyone has picked up on my preference for GM/ACDelco parts, right?
)
I then added the new OE ACDelco iridium plugs which are what GM switched to several years ago for all LS motors. I also added the OE Corvette O2 sensors for the front which have the longer leads. This meant no extensions were needed, plus I figured it wouldn’t hurt to replace 11 year old O2’s. I went with ACDelco because there is no hit or miss with them like we see with the Bosch and the Denso’s.
I also added Alper Motorsport stainless header studs. Even though the headers came with new bolts, I wanted to use the studs because I could hang the gaskets in place and they’d also be less likely to need constant tightening. They’re found on eBay, so that’s probably why you’ve never heard of them.
Then came the headers. Unfortunately, they needed some work inside the flanges to clean up the welds.
They went in rather easily – both going in from the bottom. I also threw on the GM Performance Parts wires:
The TSP y-pipe fit really well. Unlike what is shown on all the vendors’ sites, the y-pipe came with stainless band clamps rather than the old-school guillotine style.
The only negative to this is it no longer comes with those nice TorcTite lap band clamps for the header flanges. Also, while they included 6 clamps, they were all 3”, which means I had to reuse the factory I-pipe 2.75” clamp. Lastly, the passenger side pipe leaks where it goes into the Y. I’m thinking it’s simply because the opening was made a bit too big. I ordered a lap band clamp from Summit that should be here Tuesday.
Removing the AIR system meant I had a hole to fill on the side of my SLP lid. I found a rubber body plug made by Metro Molded which fit perfectly. I simply put some black RTV around it and stuffed it in the side of the lid. Part number is SB 127-D and is actually for Mopar.
Here’s a pic of the nasty Flowmaster 80 series that one of the two previous owners had installed. It not pretty (and according to all experts on here, it is not a master of flow), but it sounds good with this setup. Nonetheless, I won’t be keeping the y-pipe/Flowmaster setup once I do a cam.
Here’s what the painted headers look like after about 30 miles:
Lastly, the tune seems great. No SES lights, idles great, doesn’t seem rich or lean (as much as I can tell via sight, smell, and hearing – haven’t tasted it yet, though
). For $150, I don’t think one can go wrong with a Frost tune.
Next up is saving for the clutch swap so I can get this thing back to the track!
I’ve also got a bunch of stuff for sale in the classifieds – actually I’m giving the stuff away. Stock suspension, exhaust, etc.
Using cyberkill’s awesome thread (https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...otsa-pics.html ) as my road map, I started on the motor mounts. As I mentioned previously, it was a complete PITA to do. Nonetheless, I got them in there:
Of course I had to bust something. Fortunately, it was something cheap and easy to get – the coolant temp sensor on the driver side head. A call to the local dealer and I had a new ACDelco replacement (everyone has picked up on my preference for GM/ACDelco parts, right?
)I then added the new OE ACDelco iridium plugs which are what GM switched to several years ago for all LS motors. I also added the OE Corvette O2 sensors for the front which have the longer leads. This meant no extensions were needed, plus I figured it wouldn’t hurt to replace 11 year old O2’s. I went with ACDelco because there is no hit or miss with them like we see with the Bosch and the Denso’s.
I also added Alper Motorsport stainless header studs. Even though the headers came with new bolts, I wanted to use the studs because I could hang the gaskets in place and they’d also be less likely to need constant tightening. They’re found on eBay, so that’s probably why you’ve never heard of them.
Then came the headers. Unfortunately, they needed some work inside the flanges to clean up the welds.
They went in rather easily – both going in from the bottom. I also threw on the GM Performance Parts wires:
The TSP y-pipe fit really well. Unlike what is shown on all the vendors’ sites, the y-pipe came with stainless band clamps rather than the old-school guillotine style.
The only negative to this is it no longer comes with those nice TorcTite lap band clamps for the header flanges. Also, while they included 6 clamps, they were all 3”, which means I had to reuse the factory I-pipe 2.75” clamp. Lastly, the passenger side pipe leaks where it goes into the Y. I’m thinking it’s simply because the opening was made a bit too big. I ordered a lap band clamp from Summit that should be here Tuesday.
Removing the AIR system meant I had a hole to fill on the side of my SLP lid. I found a rubber body plug made by Metro Molded which fit perfectly. I simply put some black RTV around it and stuffed it in the side of the lid. Part number is SB 127-D and is actually for Mopar.
Here’s a pic of the nasty Flowmaster 80 series that one of the two previous owners had installed. It not pretty (and according to all experts on here, it is not a master of flow), but it sounds good with this setup. Nonetheless, I won’t be keeping the y-pipe/Flowmaster setup once I do a cam.
Here’s what the painted headers look like after about 30 miles:
Lastly, the tune seems great. No SES lights, idles great, doesn’t seem rich or lean (as much as I can tell via sight, smell, and hearing – haven’t tasted it yet, though
). For $150, I don’t think one can go wrong with a Frost tune.Next up is saving for the clutch swap so I can get this thing back to the track!
I’ve also got a bunch of stuff for sale in the classifieds – actually I’m giving the stuff away. Stock suspension, exhaust, etc.
07-13-2013, 06:55 PM
#93
Another point to note about the motor mounts... There are some that whine about poly mounts causing more vibration or whatever, but I noticed no change whatsoever.
After I get a new clutch! That will hopefully happen over the fall, so it won't be until spring that it goes back.
After I get a new clutch! That will hopefully happen over the fall, so it won't be until spring that it goes back.
07-16-2013, 02:36 PM
#96
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everything's lookin good!
headers & Y-pipe are the best thing I've done to my car so far
I'm also in the middle of doing the drill mod right now, as you did...if that don't fix my sticky pedal, I may be in the same boat as you, saving for a Monster stage 2 package
headers & Y-pipe are the best thing I've done to my car so far
I'm also in the middle of doing the drill mod right now, as you did...if that don't fix my sticky pedal, I may be in the same boat as you, saving for a Monster stage 2 package
07-16-2013, 03:02 PM
#97
It helped my 2000 SS; however, it only had like 20k miles on it at the time. I also upgraded to a LS6 clutch kit. Nonetheless, I'm going to try the Tick adjustable master next before going all out for the clutch. I really want to get this thing to the track before the end of the year.
07-18-2013, 09:59 PM
#98
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It helped my 2000 SS; however, it only had like 20k miles on it at the time. I also upgraded to a LS6 clutch kit. Nonetheless, I'm going to try the Tick adjustable master next before going all out for the clutch. I really want to get this thing to the track before the end of the year.
08-04-2013, 01:08 AM
#100
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