02_SS_SOM

Hey all,

So I've had a reoccurring starting issue that's driving me crazy. I've done the VATS bypass, replaced the alternator, and put in a new battery. Go out to car in the morning and it starts just fine. When I get to my destination and come back out a few minutes or hours later it won't start. Most of the time I give up and come back 5 or 10 minutes later and it will start but like every driver, I need the car to start on demand. Not when it wants.

When I put key in, the dash lights up, security light goes out but will not crank. I play with the key fob and lock and unlock the doors, move steering wheel around a little, put the shifter in neutral and back to park, try again and it still won't start. Then I just locked the doors with the remote and the horn beeped, put the key in and it started just fine. I don't know if that will work every time, but worked today.

I haven't read about this exact issue before, I did search. But I don't know where the issue could be if it's not VATS. The key lock cylinder feels a little loose but seems to work fine. I duno I'm stumped and I don't want to take it to a mechanic just for them to either charge me 1000$ to fix or fix the wrong thing. Anyone experienced this?

My theories are BCM, starter, or ignition cylinder (hope not). It always starts eventually and hasn't left me stranded but i'm afraid that it will. Car runs and drives great when it works.

LFSADRG

iTrader: (1)

Ignition switch on the column or possibly starter solenoid.

02_SS_SOM

I think I'll just replace the starter first, they aren't very expensive so might as well. It does not look new so no matter what it's going to fail sooner or later. My car instinct thinks that is the issue.

I'll get under there and check the wires beforehand with a volt meter first.

Thanks for the help.

01WS6/tamu

iTrader: (37)

Instead of throwing money at it blindly take it to a shop let a professional with the correct tools look at it then you know exactly what it is. You need a tech 2 or equivalent scanner to do correct diagnostics.

bad_408_vert

iTrader: (6)

Troubleshooting 101: try simple things first.

Starter Relay in the fuse box in the engine bay , closer to the headlight.
Its a square thing size of about half inch and right next to is the AC relay.

Next time you have this issue swap these relays and see if the car starts up.
Any parts store has this relay for few dollars and should be cheap fix.

If the problem continues, see if local Advance auto can run a diagnostic for free on your starter, battery, alternator.

02_SS_SOM

Indeed it was the starter, replaced it today. Car is much more willing to start and repeatedly starts with no trouble. Thanks for the help. I found something else though, if anyone is still reading this thread...

On the bottom of the 4L60E bellhousing there is a hole slightly angled towards the driver side, about 2 inches in diameter. I can see the flywheel through it. Is there supposed to be a plug or cover there? I searched because I thought it would be a flywheel inspection cover but I don't believe that is it looking at the replacement covers online.

Thanks for everyone's help btw.

02_SS_SOM

I thought that the PCM and BCM both had to agree that the right resistance has been read before allowing the car to run. So even if I took the feature out of the PCM the BCM would still not allow the car to run. The resistor mod has worked just fine, but I think the starter was the culprit all along. Only cost 150$ to fix everything anyways so I wasn't too upset. But now I have the dreaded No ABS, TCS Inop, Brake warning issue after I drive the car for 10 minutes sometimes, most of the time the car runs perfectly. I'll take it to a shop with a GM tech 2 to get diagnosed this time. I'm not going to fight the car this time. I'll save my strength for the next issue.