BlackandGold's project RECALLD Bought not Built
05-21-2015, 02:54 PM
#21
It seems I'm not the only one that had to deal with non-existent/overpriced M6 cars in SoCal, in addition to residential policies about working on cars. Sometimes I have to wonder why we bother living in San Diego.
In any case, I'm glad to see your car making such progress. Keep it going...
In any case, I'm glad to see your car making such progress. Keep it going...
05-21-2015, 04:13 PM
#23
It seems I'm not the only one that had to deal with non-existent/overpriced M6 cars in SoCal, in addition to residential policies about working on cars. Sometimes I have to wonder why we bother living in San Diego.
In any case, I'm glad to see your car making such progress. Keep it going...
In any case, I'm glad to see your car making such progress. Keep it going...
I was willing to travel (almost went to Texas, but then that would add ~1k for shipping and traveling), also I wasn't patient at all hence overpaying for a car with a grinding trans and whining rear.
05-21-2015, 06:07 PM
#26
TECH Resident
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Thanks! Hoping to have some other updates in the next few weeks. The residential policies are bad, but I just moved into PB and my lease makes no mention of automotive maintenance...Time to pull my motor in my car port?
I was willing to travel (almost went to Texas, but then that would add ~1k for shipping and traveling), also I wasn't patient at all hence overpaying for a car with a grinding trans and whining rear.
I was willing to travel (almost went to Texas, but then that would add ~1k for shipping and traveling), also I wasn't patient at all hence overpaying for a car with a grinding trans and whining rear.
05-22-2015, 06:51 PM
#27
Update on today, break-in for the rear and the clutch wrapped up so I goaded a friend into using his garage to do all of my fluids. You can also see the new headlights in this one:
11-21-2015, 07:06 PM
#40
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Welcome!
Make sure you search around before you start buying parts, there are a lot of parts that will really hurt your handling (and they won't say so).
Also auto-xing with 500rwhp is going to be a handful, you better be running 315's r-compound tires on all four corners and really go light on the throttle.
Look into Koni shocks or higher end (KW, race bilstien, Penski) and stay away from drag shocks like QA1, afco, strange and Viking - some vendors will try and get a quick sell with drag shocks like these by telling you they are good for handling which is false, they are non-gas charged shocks valved for weight transfer and the amount of "adjustment" they have is irrelevant when they are not valved right in the first place. (just because they can be made "stiff" doesn't mean they will actually handle well and be able to dampen properly.)
Balanced swaybars (35mm front, 22mm rear), and springs that are not too low (you NEED suspension travel for handling) and not too stiff (stiffer is not automatically better, you need balance).
Blank brake rotors (drilled rotors will crack) and a nice set of pads will do wonders as well for braking.
Everything else wont make near a difference for handling, get the major stuff done like above and don't worry about the little stuff until later (if at all) as it will have little effect on handling.
Im just trying to save you grief and money as Ive seen this many times where someone throws a bunch of parts at their fbody that all miss match(even when a vendor recommends the said parts) and are discouraged when their handling is sloppy, and Fbodies with Konis on otherwise stock suspension are running by them.
Make sure you search around before you start buying parts, there are a lot of parts that will really hurt your handling (and they won't say so).
Also auto-xing with 500rwhp is going to be a handful, you better be running 315's r-compound tires on all four corners and really go light on the throttle.
Look into Koni shocks or higher end (KW, race bilstien, Penski) and stay away from drag shocks like QA1, afco, strange and Viking - some vendors will try and get a quick sell with drag shocks like these by telling you they are good for handling which is false, they are non-gas charged shocks valved for weight transfer and the amount of "adjustment" they have is irrelevant when they are not valved right in the first place. (just because they can be made "stiff" doesn't mean they will actually handle well and be able to dampen properly.)
Balanced swaybars (35mm front, 22mm rear), and springs that are not too low (you NEED suspension travel for handling) and not too stiff (stiffer is not automatically better, you need balance).
Blank brake rotors (drilled rotors will crack) and a nice set of pads will do wonders as well for braking.
Everything else wont make near a difference for handling, get the major stuff done like above and don't worry about the little stuff until later (if at all) as it will have little effect on handling.
Im just trying to save you grief and money as Ive seen this many times where someone throws a bunch of parts at their fbody that all miss match(even when a vendor recommends the said parts) and are discouraged when their handling is sloppy, and Fbodies with Konis on otherwise stock suspension are running by them.