When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Awesome, thanks. Nothing I found had that in the parts drawing and I couldn't figure out what they called these parts, so these numbers are a lot of help.
I see now there is a slit in the top of the one part that was cut and it had a plate blocking most of it, so I'm not so sure it has to be that blocked off. Maybe so for it work with car movement and the fans off. I'll be looking at making it better, I could see a lot of room left open by the stock setup. I'm wanting to add a seal to the fan shroud and between the radiator and condenser. I'm still not certain on it all, so right now I will still get some intake air from there because I'm not sure I can get all of my air through the blocked front port.
Finally got my exhaust replaced and quickly confirmed the highway speed harmonics wasn't the exhaust dumping under me, but damage to the rear end. Pinion bearing got hit in the wreck, but good news is this should be the last of it. Axle is out and I'm going to step up the bolt size on the Moser failed torque arm mount design. New gears are on the way and since the one BMR box control arm was such a fight to get out I"m going to replace with adjustable tube arms from UMI.
I still need to seal up the cooling around the radiator and I have a cooler for my power steering and engine oil. Good thing to since the stock PS cooler is now dripping just a little on the ground. I just zip tied it up out of the way when I did the radiator for the time being.
Still waiting on gears and UMI adjustable control arms, but I've been trying to fix the Moser design flaw. I stepped up the torque arm bolts to 5/8"-11 which included welding up the one hole which was screwed up. I'm going to drill the bolt heads for safety wire, but I'm also thinking about an increase in the bolt torque. The normal is what 80 ft/lb? I'm thinking about maybe 125 ft/lb or 150 ft/lb with loctite and safety wire.
Ordered the new bolts from UMI with the adjustable Roto-joint ends to find out later the joints are 1/2". So, I purchased more bolts and got it set up right. Just need to install drive shaft, bleed brakes, and fill axle with oil to be done with this end. Up front I still need to figure out how to mount my oil / power steering cooler and fix the front blinkers. Hope to have a regular running car only down at times for upgrades after next weekend.
Anyone want my old BMR control arms? The zerk fittings in the rear of both have been broke off and need replaced. Make a reasonable offer. I also have new UMI bolts I can sell with them.
Last edited by Crf450r420; 10-14-2018 at 03:42 PM.
Reason: add missing detail about arms.
Got my oil cooler mostly mounted. My nut-cert tool busted with one more needed for the front support bracket, so I'm waiting on a new one. Power steering is already ran to it and the larger part will get motor oil further down the road. i have to change my oil pan to get that part going.
Axle wasn't right, but couldn't work on it so I went for the tilt steering. Plastic for the horns are falling a part and not sure if I can make them work again. Got down to the pins and the left pin moves a lot while the right one seams solid. Pin puller is on it's way then I can try to fix it.
Those horn parts are exactly why a aftermarket steering wheel is being sold with my car. I'm not going to mess with making that stock crap work again. Aftermarket wheel has a working horn LOL.
I thought about it, but if I ever get this thing working well enough to drive like a real car. Then I'll be driving it for maybe a year or two before I get a cage, so I want to keep the air bag for now. I can't see spending $60 on parts, so I may end up with nitrous buttons for a horn.
Thanks for the help, but I'm just going to make them on my lathe. I was off on sizes and had to use the large reamer (.403") on the small hole last night. The same .403" cleaned up maybe 30% of the larger hole. I'm going to see what I can grab for free in the .410" or larger from my cousin to do the outer hole. My passenger side is still pretty close to perfect and I can just make the pin a thousand or two larger to tighten up. I'm just going to make the pin from a grade 5 bolt as it will still be stronger than the rest of the setup. This is the easy part of this for me. Putting the whole thing back together will likely be the toughest.
Went with stainless. Got one finished and then noticed I forgot to chop then end off to size. Not sure it will work like that or if I have to fix it. The other ones is almost done, but have to cut it off and finish the back to size and tap for removal tool. Soon I'll have to try and put this thing back together and noticed that all the directions online help take it a part, but not much help on back together. The main part I'm unsure about is getting the adjusters back in place. That will be a blast I'm sure.
I bought some custom pins from here, but they didn't remove all of my tilt slop. Any interest in earning some parts & labor money to custom fab me some pins and R&R them on my car?
Did you measure how bad your holes are? If you they are to out of round by to much even hammering in larger ones will only do so much. That is why I used reamers to get things round again. Not sure about trying to make them for others as these were a PITA. Trying to hold these to .0001" on a manual lathe it took me 6 hours to make 2. I did a slip fit on the inside ones and an interference fit on the outsides. The good side I went .0005" over and the bad side I wasn't 100% square so I went with .0015". I then used the freezer to help and the good one went right in, while the other side took some hammering to probably cut a little of that hole truer. I'd have to charge $100 based on the first round. And you would have to get perfect measurements or use reamers on all 4 holes and even then I can't be 100% sure I'll hit the fit.
I didn't measure the holes, I provided the larger pins to a GM tech well versed in column disassembly and he did the rest. I was going to buy a whole replacement steering column to 'fix' the tilt issue, everything else is fine.. well the multi-function lever has some play in it, but I have a new one to put in. The last quote I have says the rebuilt column would be $400, plus a $250 core fee. I'd be willing to pay you a portion of that to drive to your location and have you do all the fab & labor. I've never personally had the column apart, though. I don't know which solution will be more reliable in the long run... your type of repair or an entire rebuilt column.
Yeah, I can't answer that one yet. I'm hoping mine lasts longer or at least as long. The larger holes probably spread the loads out over the over the smaller pins, so maybe it will last longer. I'm also way more aware of how much work it was to fix it and I give my self crap anytime I grab it as I get out now.
I stand a better chance of getting it a part and back together in one day now, but I'm not sure I can do it as it would be only the second time tearing into one. Took me and my brother-in-law a good while to figure it out and get it together after I had everything modified and made. Most likely take a two day weekend to do a second one, so I'm more likely to try and make the pins for you to install.
I didn't know getting it rebuilt was an option. Since GM doesn't sell it anymore, I thought it was repair it on my own or risk getting a used one. Do you know if they replace the part the pivot pins wreck? Do they happen to use a stronger material than stock? Pretty sure they are both cast of aluminum or zinc as it was soft when using the reamers and it isn't magnetic. If they upgrade that then it's probably the better way to go.
05-13-2018, 01:21 PM
