When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yeah, that price is sort of amazing. We use a lot of Northern radiators as they are also cost effective and tough, but they don't have a drop in for our cars. I talked to them about making one for us, but why worry now that there is this option. Hope they are tough and fit well.
Thursday, I installed CDT speakers in the sail panels which allowed me to also get all the panels back in except the passenger floor for access to the ECU. Tomorrow I'll wire up the 3 axis accelerometer. Need to get a better idea on how it works before I pick a mounting spot and build a case for it. I'm hoping it will be simple to zero it all in the calibration, which will make the mounting super simple. Guess I'll order a dual din trim piece after this post, to get ready for the head unit. 6literdesign have the best one or is there another one that is best to go with?
Drove around earlier today and got to try a couple things on the tune while trying to run it out of gas to finalize the gas gauge setup. I was off by more than I thought, so still working on that mission. If I can get up early I'll hit the Cars and Coffee. My guess is I'll run out of gas waiting at a read light of the largest intersection during that drive.
Also, the flyer says not to do burnouts or rev the motor or they will call the cops and give them your tag number. Wondering how much they will like mine at idle with open headers.
I got the fuel gauge final tuned, plus the 3-axis 3G accelerometer wired and tested yesterday. I need to make a case for it next and then pick a spot. This thing has me excited.
I need to put a vented catch can on this thing. What is a good one that fits either by the fuse box or in front of the radiator. I guess right behind the radiator could work also, was just thinking out of the way. Right now I just have two 3/8" hoses ran loose into the nose of the car so I need to do get a can on those lines.
I've thought about a vac pump, but besides the question of how many street miles they will last is the cost of them is not something I'm ready to do right now.
Wrong style. That is for a PCV setup and I'm venting to atmosphere. Has anyone mounted two of those in a row to see how much oil gets passed the one to still cause detonation?
I'm not running 93 octane to have less refined oil from the crank case to also get in the cylinder and reduce the octane to lower number and increase my chance unstable ignition because it breaks parts.
I just figured out my tach and speedometer, so those work now. I'm not sure why the speedometer isn't jumping around now so that might still go nuts, but right now it's working with the correct reading.
Should be mounting this tomorrow so I'll have my in car feedback for tuning ready once everything is broke in and ready for fun.
Let's see. Got the factory tach and speedometer working and reading correctly. Got the lean spike at clutch out fixed and improved the accel enrichment some. I changed out the inside lights to LED and can see at night. Reinforced the window switch, so it no longer comes loose when I open the passenger window. Also, made a dwell table that I'll try next chance I get. I got the 3 axis 3G accelerometer mounted and zero's out.
Trying to get one or a few small things done each day.
If it was summer I'd likely be working on the cooling system, but it's not and light is more of an issue right now. So, I ordered new bulbs for the cluster and it is way better, why these gauge faces suck. It also explains why I had to adjust the signal to the tach and speedo to get the reading right when driving. Now I need to know is this just a stick on like it looks? If so, I can fix it if I don't mind loosing the white, but is there someone still selling white gauge faces for these cars that actually fit well so I can keep them white?
So today for the first time the radiator low warning light came on. I checked and it's not plugged in and I can't even find the lead (it was this way when I bought the car). Thought about it and was wondering if that one 74 light I put into the back was for that warning. I'm thinking it was in about the right place, but I don't know for sure. The ride back home it wasn't on, but if removing that bulb makes sure it doesn't light up anymore. Then, I'll pull it next time I have this thing out so someone let me know. Thanks.
I find it odd that it started coming on right after I changed that bulb, but I took that one from the door panel so I know the one that came out of it was working. Maybe I messed up what the previous owner did to keep it off without knowing it. I'll try searching how to kill it. I'm going to pull the cluster again tomorrow to rip the white faces off so probably a good time to finish it off.
I also have to try and find what is letting the trunk area get soaked. First time I washed it and it rained that night, so I thought it was from spraying it when washing. Last night I didn't know it was going to rain and I left it outside. Now I know it leaks with just rain.
So, I got my LED 921 bulb and replaced the CHMSL bulbs. They were black and are melting the housing. Plastic polished it to make it look good and installed the bright, but colder bulbs.
Also, pulled the cluster again. Checked and the 74 bulb at the top does go to low coolant, so that is now empty. I also pulled the white gauge faces off. Also, used the plastix polish on the clear cover. Just have to calibrate the ECU tach and speed signals again to read correctly.
Made temp spacers from sheet aluminum to align the link bars on the watts link. Once I can get on a mill I'll make some single piece ones. The bars are good enough for now.
A also got another crack at my drive line angles since I had some noise noise on the highway. Had to barrow my friends Mititoyo angle finder. The craftsman one I have is to long and the cheap one I have was all over the place even after I figured out it has low battery and it has no indicator. It's probably why I was off enough to have an issue in the first place.
Tonight I tried to pull my balancer and install my ATI and Might Mouse pointer. The puller I purchased was the best looking one I could find that wasn't $250 or more. The main parts I'm impressed with, but the kit only has 2 bolts of some including the 5/16"-24 I need to get this things off. I stacked washers up for 2 inches to make the 2 long ones work and ripped through everything for and hour trying to find another one, but came up empty. I guess I'm swapping it tomorrow when a store is open if the wife lets me play.
I also got the rest of the parts to redo my rear hard brake lines out of stainless today. I want to have that done this weekend.
Oh, what panhard bar relocation bracket has the most room for exhaust. I want to make sure my next exhaust clears that also. If I have to put one on for a class I want to race in, because it has a rule against my watts link.
Performance Tools puller kit is actually pretty nice for what I expect of that brand. Just didn't have enough standard bolts in the kit.
Had to grind down the water pump to even get the cam sensor bolt out.
After grinding it far enough to get the stud for the Might Mouse pointer installed.
Had to stop here for a family Christmas dinner. I hope that pointer is right or really close as I don't think it will be hard to adjust in this slot, but moving it another one once the balancer is in place can't be any fun.
Got the balancer and new belts on and after random luck while torquing the ARP bolt to 235 lb/ft the pointer was right at the TDC mark. Probably see if that is really TDC tomorrow.
Made new rear brake lines on the axle almost 100% stainless. Couldn't find the one M12 x 1.0 fitting in it and I mistakenly ordered aluminum clamps, so I used them.
1) Be mindful of removing the torque arm with the rear coilovers still mounted. The axle can and will rotate forward at which point those SCHC you used to mount your brake line will dig into the threads of the shock body. If you need to do torque arm stuff, I would suggest unbolting the lower coil over bolts first. At least this issue happened on my 10-bolt.
2) Is that an axle breather????
3) What rear swaybar is that? I like those endlinks...and what size are those endlinks?? I'd like to get rid of my Hellwig links and go to rod ended versions but need 7/16" rod ends.
11-02-2017, 09:37 PM
