So the car is back up on jackstands, I think I’m just starting to get a direction of the car. The engine is torn down to the shortblock, exhaust is removed and I sold the 10 spokes last summer. I picked up a full set of Brembo brakes a few months ago and scored these 2 OEM Speedline 18x10.5’s for cheap. I’ll run 18x10.5’s front and rear for a squared setup, but also to run the Brembo’s up front without a spacer. I’ll drill my holes out tomorrow and mount up the caliper and then the wheel and check clearances and go from there.

I got the bolt holes opened up to accept the 14mm bolts for mounting, I have pictures but the uploading isn’t working I looked at a few threads and say people using a 9/16 drill instead of using a 14mm drill bit because a 9/16 drill bit can be found at the local hardware store. I opted to get the right drill bit and ordered a 14mm, but I started with a 31/64” drill bit to open the holes up, then used a 1/2” drill bit and finally finished it off with the 14mm. I used drill lube each time. The bolt holes are clean and it didn’t take long. I recommend stepping up the holes like this as it is the easiest on the drill bits and your tool. I got the caliper mounted, but I don’t have my rotors yet. When they come in I’ll take them down with a stock rotor to have the hubs opened up.

The calipers need to be powdercoater still, I was just wanting to mock it up since I drilled the holes out.

Picked up my 5th gen rotors from the machine shop. Can’t wait to get these on for the mock-up.

Mocked them up again, to check fitment after the rotor hubs were opened up to 4th gen specs. My biggest fear before I purchased the brakes, that I couldn’t run the c5 z06 wheels that I wanted to. Search after search brought no definitive answer. Regardless of wheel width, every answer to what wheels can you run was the same answer: the wheel need less than a 45mm offset or you have to run a spacer and longer studs if you don’t want to rub the caliper against the wheel. Well I can say with a definite answer, those posts from others are wrong. I’m running 18x10.5 c5 z06 wheels and I didn’t need to run a spacer, longer studs or any additional hardware.
Here’s the 2010 rotor

2010 rotor with 5th gen Brembo’s

And finally wheels mounted up with lug nuts tightened down.

The caliper clears the wheel well and it clears the spokes by a few millimeters, enough to be safe and no need to buy extra parts.

I’m now waiting for warmer weather so I can paint the calipers and finish the install of the front end. Next, I will be buying the backing plates and installing the rear Brembo’s. I’ve already done my research and spoke with the company who makes them. I asked the gentleman about the “pad knockback” claims by people. He went on to tell me they’ve been on his stock 10 bolt for over a year, he’s done normal driving and AutoX and hasn’t had any knockback whatsoever.

Its a novel lol thank you sir! Yours has come along way also!

I’ll snap some pics tomorrow of the fenders. I picked up a set of unpainted never used OEM front fenders for $20 today! I’ll pick up new OEM front turn signal housings for another $20 tomorrow. This weekend, I’ll get a set of A pillars for my Hardtop car to replace the ones that some shop fucked up when they mounted a gauge pillar pod. It was either Cunningham Motorsports or Camaro King of LA who did these things to the pillars and the dash . . . whoever did it is a ******* moron.


Thankfully a buddy of mine has a complete dash from an 01 car that’s in mint condition for $50.

Yeah, I might as well restore the whole car lol

It is, my speakers are jacked because someone else couldn’t figure out how to wire lol my BCM needs resolder because the head unit has power issues related to BCM.
Thank you bud! The four calipers were under $300 shipped so I had to jump on it! I can wait to paint them when it gets warmer!! In the meantime I need to start tearing the interior apart.