I went to get breakfast this morning and I shut the car off so I can hear in the drive through. I go to start and nothing I bought the car a month ago and have not had ANY problems intil mow. I'm going to check fuse first BUT I dont thing there will be a problem. I've read that the security will cause this ???? .. I know no one can fix this from behind their computers but just some pointers would be helpfull. I have ALL tools to do any job I just need a starting point. ELEC confuse the *** out of me so.......I'm in for a ride.

 

No one????? Yeah I'm fukin beat,driving all over the fuking world. I went and got a new GM key,didnt change a thing. Tried to by pass the key with resisters,didnt do anything. Checked fuse all good. It has oil. When I turn the key no sounds nada!!!! It sucks because its in a chick flia parking lot,*** it I have to have it towed to the house.

 

I call a friend with a wrecker and I got it home last night. Havent even left the house,Its out side getting wet. Maybe my S-10 put the vodoo on it. My truck has been my DD since 98 and this is the first car ive had since then so....Vodoo ************* vodoo

Any body with a thought?

 

you have nothing? no headlights nothing?

 

Here is what ive come up with this morning. The security light go's out before the key is turned. The car has ALL light and function as it should. I don't hear the fuel pump but I cant remember if i did before. It just doesn't turn over or start. Its like the hot lead is off the starter. With that said I'm going to get it off the ground and see. I'm "thinking" it ISN'T the VAST system at all but I don't know for sure,I'm open to everybodys thought.

 

If you have all electrical power, and the battery has a full charge, and you've already ruled out the VATS system by doing a resistor bypass, then I would guess it's the starter or starter relay which has failed. HOWEVER, if the fuel pump isn't priming (you could also check this with a mechanical gauge), then the issue isn't your starter/starter relay.

Are you sure you got the right resistance on the VATS bypass?

How many miles on the car? VATS issues are usually the result of high miles (or, more accurately, lots of ignition cylinder use.)

 

near the right fender close to the upper shock mount is a single wire barrel style wiring connector, this is the wire that feeds the starter solenoid terminal to tell the starter to crank, check for voltage on fender side terminal when you turn key to crank, you can also open up the connection and jump 12 volts to engine side terminal to force starter to crank, if it doesn't crank the starter **** the bed and needs to b replaced.

 

I've been out side jacking the car up ,man what a pain in the ***!!!!! I pulled the starter and checked the wires,all good. I started to look around and saw where the started wires came down from the fender well. WOW I noticed they had the wires wrapped in some heat shield-ish rubber cover. I pushed it away from the headers. I went and tried to start the car, it fired right up!
I guess it melted enough to ground the wire and stop the car from starting.

I finished the wiring yesterday. They had the wires running from beside the computers down the side of the fender and wormed it around the headers to the starter/sensors. I lengthened the wires about two feet. I soldered/shrink wrapped them and then wrapped it all in black tape. I ran them a long side the harness on the passanger side fender down behind the batters to follow the red power cable to the starter. I wrapped the wires with heat tape the closer I got to the headers/starter. I finished off the wires with convalescent tubing just like the factory uses,that way it blends with the other wires in the car.

I thought it would be a PITA to drop the starter with the headers but it wasn't. I started it a few times to make sure everything was a go. It just go's to show that people really don't do a good job when its not their stuff

 

Glad you got it figured out and are back on the road.