6.0 liter oil pan
07-05-2009, 07:07 AM
#1
6.0 liter oil pan I have a 6.0L engine for my 68 Camaro. Why are people spending $280+ for a F-body oil pan to butcher, when you could just butcher the 6.0L truck pan you have?
Can you not just cut the bottom off the truck pan and weld a new piece of aluminum to the bottom?
Can you not just cut the bottom off the truck pan and weld a new piece of aluminum to the bottom?
07-05-2009, 09:09 PM
#3
Launching!
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i'm running an f body pan on my first gen camaro and didn't have to cut anything. I think the only other thing you would have to do if your going to mod the 6.0 is either buy a different windage tray/pick up tube or mod the one your have. I think if you chop the bottom of the 6.0 truck pan, the pick up will not work, depending on how much your chopping. probably still cheaper than buying a new pan/ windage tran/ and pick up.
07-05-2009, 11:16 PM
#4
I have done this twice.....If you look at the pickup tube, you can see how far you can cut and reweld it (shortening it) before you hit the first radius bend. I think its somewhere around 2-2.5 inches (cant remember right now). I cut the pickup and rewelded it as high as i could, then cut the pan and welded new bottom in, removing the same distance i cut from the pickup tube. I measured pickup - pan clearance before i cut anything, and again after modifying it, to make sure it remained the same. You basically end up with a pan that fits like the LH8 pan, but its almost a 1.25" shallower, giving better ground clearance. Worked good, and it was basically free, if you can TIG it yourself. Just make sure you clean the crap out of everything before installing on the motor, you dont want the oil pump sucking up a nice piece of welding slag on startup! 
ALSO.......you can try a late model full size van oilpan, it looks like the truck pan but saves about a 1 1/2" in ground clearance, still better clearance than the LH8.
ALSO.......you can try a late model full size van oilpan, it looks like the truck pan but saves about a 1 1/2" in ground clearance, still better clearance than the LH8.
07-05-2009, 11:24 PM
#5
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I have done this twice.....If you look at the pickup tube, you can see how far you can cut and reweld it (shortening it) before you hit the first radius bend. I think its somewhere around 2-2.5 inches (cant remember right now). I cut the pickup and rewelded it as high as i could, then cut the pan and welded new bottom in, removing the same distance i cut from the pickup tube. I measured pickup - pan clearance before i cut anything, and again after modifying it, to make sure it remained the same. You basically end up with a pan that fits like the LH8 pan, but its almost a 1.25" shallower, giving better ground clearance. Worked good, and it was basically free, if you can TIG it yourself. Just make sure you clean the crap out of everything before installing on the motor, you dont want the oil pump sucking up a nice piece of welding slag on startup! ALSO.......you can try a late model full size van oilpan, it looks like the truck pan but saves about a 1 1/2" in ground clearance, still better clearance than the LH8.
ALSO.......you can try a late model full size van oilpan, it looks like the truck pan but saves about a 1 1/2" in ground clearance, still better clearance than the LH8.
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07-06-2009, 02:17 PM
#8
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A truck pan holds 6.5 quarts.
An F-body pan holds 5.5 quarts.
Every inch you cut out of the bottom of a truck pan reduces the oil capacity by about a quart.
You can cut about an inch to inch and a quarter and be a the same capacity as the F-body pan.
You can cut it a little more and overfill the oil a half a quart and still be ok too.
It isn't difficult to weld but you need to get the bottom of the pan pretty square with minimun weld gaps. I used .250 6061 to modify mine
An F-body pan holds 5.5 quarts.
Every inch you cut out of the bottom of a truck pan reduces the oil capacity by about a quart.
You can cut about an inch to inch and a quarter and be a the same capacity as the F-body pan.
You can cut it a little more and overfill the oil a half a quart and still be ok too.
It isn't difficult to weld but you need to get the bottom of the pan pretty square with minimun weld gaps. I used .250 6061 to modify mine
07-06-2009, 04:36 PM
#9
Poconojoe,
I'm not aware of the H3 pan, I can't find anything on it, I'll keep looking...
Cool,
Thanks for the reply guys... I have a buddy that's a hell of a tig welder. I just hated to spend money on a pan that I was going to have to modify when I could just cut the pan I have.
Another couple hundred saved...
I'm not aware of the H3 pan, I can't find anything on it, I'll keep looking...
Cool,
Thanks for the reply guys... I have a buddy that's a hell of a tig welder. I just hated to spend money on a pan that I was going to have to modify when I could just cut the pan I have.
Another couple hundred saved...
07-06-2009, 05:20 PM
#10
I filled my pan to the same level inside before and after my 2 1/4" reduction, and it comes up at 5.3 quarts after the shortening.... so i lost a just a hair over a quart. A quart a inch isn't correct, especially because the first inch of the pan is tapered and your basically removing 1" in the front, to nothing at the rear, picture if you were cutting the bottom level and getting rid of the taper. I was concerned about this too, thats why i checked before and after. We used these pans on G body cars, where the LH8 hung too low and the CTSV wouldn't work. The Street and Performance pan holds just over 4 QUARTS! and its expensive as all hell, if you dont have a F body pan to give them as a core. On top of all that, it requires you to run NO windage tray. Didn't sound like the hot setup to me.....so we cut the truck pans and it worked great!
07-07-2009, 08:55 PM
#13
Free -VS- $$$$
Street & Performance pan - over $500 after core charge, 4 quarts! & no windage tray........
Milodon pan - $300 and its stamped steel, have to run remote oil filter kit
LH8 pan - poor ground clearance, Barely 1" better than stock truck pan
Cts V pan - Works good for A bodies, tight to crossmember though and wont work if you are pulling motor forward for A/C compressor - frame clearance if using stock A/C bracket and compressor
F-body pan - expensive when bought new, scarce and hard to find used, have to slam motor against firewall in chevelles to use it UNMODIFIED. If you cut it, your less than 5 quarts (Street and Performance style)
Autocraft pan - Heard these were nice, never used one, Still at least $250. Prob worth the money, unless it requires remote oil filter BS like the milidon steel swap pan
MODIFIED TRUCK PAN - $30 material, some elbow grease, holds 5.5 quarts, good ground clearance and retains factory gasket / oil filter location. & it fits good! Plenty of X member room
This is the way i see it, for chevelles & G body cars anyways.
$300 isn't a ton of money, but its a lot of money to pay for bad products that dont work all that well. I like the CTS-V pan and it works great for my stock motor location chevelle, but for alot of people it wont work with + 1 or 2" forward mounting locations.
Street & Performance pan - over $500 after core charge, 4 quarts! & no windage tray........
Milodon pan - $300 and its stamped steel, have to run remote oil filter kit
LH8 pan - poor ground clearance, Barely 1" better than stock truck pan
Cts V pan - Works good for A bodies, tight to crossmember though and wont work if you are pulling motor forward for A/C compressor - frame clearance if using stock A/C bracket and compressor
F-body pan - expensive when bought new, scarce and hard to find used, have to slam motor against firewall in chevelles to use it UNMODIFIED. If you cut it, your less than 5 quarts (Street and Performance style)
Autocraft pan - Heard these were nice, never used one, Still at least $250. Prob worth the money, unless it requires remote oil filter BS like the milidon steel swap pan
MODIFIED TRUCK PAN - $30 material, some elbow grease, holds 5.5 quarts, good ground clearance and retains factory gasket / oil filter location. & it fits good! Plenty of X member room
This is the way i see it, for chevelles & G body cars anyways.
$300 isn't a ton of money, but its a lot of money to pay for bad products that dont work all that well. I like the CTS-V pan and it works great for my stock motor location chevelle, but for alot of people it wont work with + 1 or 2" forward mounting locations.
07-12-2009, 10:06 AM
#15
If your A body isn't pulling the motor forward (Like BRP mounts do), the CTS-V pan hands flush with crossmember, and fits perfect. No ground clearance issues. My 72 has it with the edelbrock mounts, so does my friends '68. But if you pull the motor forward with different mounts, it wont work.
04-15-2010, 06:50 PM
#18
heres my mod'd lq4/truck pan 2" off the bottom will hold about 5 qts + i decided to do a dual remote filter to add a little capacity + i will run the oil cooler too
i chopped mine a little different i chopped the middle out and rewelded to keep it more factory looking
i chopped mine a little different i chopped the middle out and rewelded to keep it more factory looking
04-16-2010, 06:21 AM
#20