Single Turbo LS1 Notch Build *videos*
06-26-2013, 08:47 PM
#502
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Well after a few years i belive mr stock crank decided to flex and take out a bearing. Started hearing a noise the other day so i started taking it apart. Got some metal in the oil. Fn blows because i just spent a bunch on the trans, and only had it running a few weeks. I guess over 30lbs was to much for it. Not exactly sure what im going to do at the moment. Depends how much hp wessico pistons and the callies rods can handle. Might leave them or up grade. The new turbo should be able to make 1500crank hp. So ill be looking to make about 1300 crank hp. Dragonslayer crank for sure. Just not sure on these rods and pistons
07-19-2013, 11:03 AM
#505
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found the problem last night. The number one cylinder wrist pin retaining clip fell out. So the wrist pin slid out and scored the cylinder wall. Taking it to the machine shop to see if it can get bored.
maybe the stock crank is fine, maybe its not. once i hear back from the machine shop on whats good and what needs to be replaced. Then ill decide what to do.
maybe the stock crank is fine, maybe its not. once i hear back from the machine shop on whats good and what needs to be replaced. Then ill decide what to do.
07-25-2013, 10:43 AM
#506
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damage report
the crank shaft is bent .004 the number 4 main bearing is done.
#1 rod just needs a new bushing on the small end
needs #1 piston as well.
the marks on the cylinder wall are about .010 deep.
so i need new pistons and a crank.
the callies h beam rods i have are proven. 1300 crank hp should be fine.
leaning more towards callies dragonslayer crank vs their c series.
but because i need piston and a crank i may go with the 3.825 crank vs the 3.625
the extra 20ci would feel nice on the street. what do you all think.
the crank shaft is bent .004 the number 4 main bearing is done.
#1 rod just needs a new bushing on the small end
needs #1 piston as well.
the marks on the cylinder wall are about .010 deep.
so i need new pistons and a crank.
the callies h beam rods i have are proven. 1300 crank hp should be fine.
leaning more towards callies dragonslayer crank vs their c series.
but because i need piston and a crank i may go with the 3.825 crank vs the 3.625
the extra 20ci would feel nice on the street. what do you all think.
10-26-2013, 09:19 PM
#514
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Did the coil brackets and throttle cable in gloss black and it put the intake back togeather tonight. Had my friend machine the top of the manfiold to break up the white. Im hoping to have the new motor by the end of the week.
10-31-2013, 05:28 AM
#515
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Well because I'm getting a gen IV block I have a few items for sale.
LS6 valley cover
timing cover with a -12 and a -10 bung welded on
double roller adjustable timing set
LS6 valley cover
timing cover with a -12 and a -10 bung welded on
double roller adjustable timing set
11-04-2013, 06:41 PM
#517
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Thanks man!
I made a like page for it the other day on Facebook too. Feel free to like and share it.
https://www.facebook.com/turbolsxnotch
I made a like page for it the other day on Facebook too. Feel free to like and share it.
https://www.facebook.com/turbolsxnotch
11-21-2013, 08:26 AM
#518
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will do a real update soon. but for now......
selling my manton 7.525 3/8th pushrods for $80 i need some shorter ones because of the head milling and new lifters.
selling my manton 7.525 3/8th pushrods for $80 i need some shorter ones because of the head milling and new lifters.
11-22-2013, 06:09 PM
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This is like exactly what I want to build bravo.
Now for some newbie questions. Do you drive it on the street a lot? What fuel? Surprised it's not intercooled in any way. Any reason why?
And I need to look at the first page, what turbo are you running?
Now for some newbie questions. Do you drive it on the street a lot? What fuel? Surprised it's not intercooled in any way. Any reason why?
And I need to look at the first page, what turbo are you running?