Power Steering Pump outputs - GTO, F-body, Corvette, CTS-V, Truck etc!
04-01-2010, 10:39 PM
#1
Power Steering Pump outputs - GTO, F-body, Corvette, CTS-V, Truck etc! Ok, for a long time, I've been trying to find out what the output of the various PS pumps that are compatible with my setup,(94 Mazda RX-7, or FD).
I had heard a few things, installed two of them - but was looking at some others, so I finally dug into ALLDATA - the repair software that has all the specs/etc..
Here it is for posterity/reference. The first number is the GPM output - if it had a range, I put the range. The second is the Regulated PSI,(spring relief). I originally posted this on the v8rx7forum board but felt this is something everyone here could use on their swaps.
I rounded a few numbers - but usually no more than 10 psi.
I've grouped them by accessory belt depth.
The first depth is the C5/C6 Corvettes, Caddy CTS-V, Pontiac G8
Corvette LS1, LS6, LS2, LS7,(and I think supercharged LS9):
2.4/2.8 GPM 1250/1350 psi
Pontiac G8
2.0 GPM 1200-1300 psi
(of note for FD swaps, V6 model is 1100-1200 psi, I'm checking to see if it can work with the G8 accessories, doubt it)
Cadillac CTS-V, all years with LS6 and LS2:
1.9-2.1 GPM 1640/1740 psi
I think this is the shallow depth?:
2009+ CTS-V from LSA motor:
2.7 GPM, 1625/1850
Next grouping is GTO/F-body depth accessories
GTO - ALL YEARS w/LS6 and LS2,(04-06):
1.95/2.35 GPM 1100/1200 psi
Camaro/F-body 98-2002:
2.7/3.1 GPM 1200-1300 psi
Last is the Trucks:
All varied a little. For pretty much every 2000-2009 1500 or 2500 type truck/SUV,(Caddy, Chevy, GMC, etc), they followed this general guidelines:
4.7/s 5.3's, 6.0's:
~ 3.0-3.5+ GPM(some 2500's and later high end models like the Escalade were 3.5-3.9)
All were mostly 1425-1525 psi. The older,(2000 era) 2500 series were 1350-1450psi and the 1500's were 1450-1550.
Bottom line, most all truck PS pumps had 3,0+ GPM and ~1500 psi output.
The exception to spec range was the Trailblazer SS with of course the LS2 6.0 motor, and it was spec'd at 2.7-3.1, 1400-1500 psi. Not that far to be honest.
If someone can classify the FWD V8's as to pulley depth - I can put those up as well. (talking V8 Impala, etc..).
So in summary - car Pumps vary PSI output pretty significantly, now you can match the pump to your accessory depth and PS rack requirements. If the PSI is too high - cut coils off the relief spring.
If someone can put pictures of the various pumps up,(ones that will be around), we can further dive into this subject.
Please let me know what else you would like to make this complete!
I had heard a few things, installed two of them - but was looking at some others, so I finally dug into ALLDATA - the repair software that has all the specs/etc..
Here it is for posterity/reference. The first number is the GPM output - if it had a range, I put the range. The second is the Regulated PSI,(spring relief). I originally posted this on the v8rx7forum board but felt this is something everyone here could use on their swaps.
I rounded a few numbers - but usually no more than 10 psi.
I've grouped them by accessory belt depth.
The first depth is the C5/C6 Corvettes, Caddy CTS-V, Pontiac G8
Corvette LS1, LS6, LS2, LS7,(and I think supercharged LS9):
2.4/2.8 GPM 1250/1350 psi
Pontiac G8
2.0 GPM 1200-1300 psi
(of note for FD swaps, V6 model is 1100-1200 psi, I'm checking to see if it can work with the G8 accessories, doubt it)
Cadillac CTS-V, all years with LS6 and LS2:
1.9-2.1 GPM 1640/1740 psi
I think this is the shallow depth?:
2009+ CTS-V from LSA motor:
2.7 GPM, 1625/1850
Next grouping is GTO/F-body depth accessories
GTO - ALL YEARS w/LS6 and LS2,(04-06):
1.95/2.35 GPM 1100/1200 psi
Camaro/F-body 98-2002:
2.7/3.1 GPM 1200-1300 psi
Last is the Trucks:
All varied a little. For pretty much every 2000-2009 1500 or 2500 type truck/SUV,(Caddy, Chevy, GMC, etc), they followed this general guidelines:
4.7/s 5.3's, 6.0's:
~ 3.0-3.5+ GPM(some 2500's and later high end models like the Escalade were 3.5-3.9)
All were mostly 1425-1525 psi. The older,(2000 era) 2500 series were 1350-1450psi and the 1500's were 1450-1550.
Bottom line, most all truck PS pumps had 3,0+ GPM and ~1500 psi output.
The exception to spec range was the Trailblazer SS with of course the LS2 6.0 motor, and it was spec'd at 2.7-3.1, 1400-1500 psi. Not that far to be honest.
If someone can classify the FWD V8's as to pulley depth - I can put those up as well. (talking V8 Impala, etc..).
So in summary - car Pumps vary PSI output pretty significantly, now you can match the pump to your accessory depth and PS rack requirements. If the PSI is too high - cut coils off the relief spring.
If someone can put pictures of the various pumps up,(ones that will be around), we can further dive into this subject.
Please let me know what else you would like to make this complete!
Last edited by Bob H; 04-01-2010 at 11:08 PM. Reason: Added bolding
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Grewe02 (09-13-2021)
04-01-2010, 11:20 PM
#3
TECH Enthusiast
Is the 05-06 GTO powersteering pressure line fittings:
What is the fitting size for the 06 GTO LS2 powersteering hose pressure line?
Is it 16 mm Male "O" Ring x 18 mm Male "O" Ring?
Like the standard GM from 1980-present?
What is the fitting size for the 06 GTO LS2 powersteering hose pressure line?
Is it 16 mm Male "O" Ring x 18 mm Male "O" Ring?
Like the standard GM from 1980-present?
04-02-2010, 10:06 AM
#6
Do a hi pressure hose search at www.rockauto.com and compare end sizes of various stock GM hoses. This is what I did.
04-03-2010, 02:15 AM
#7
Thanks a lot for posting all of this. I can't tell you how much bad information there is out there about this topic. It seems that mating up a pump with a steering gear is treated like a black art by most hot rodders, with all sorts of urban legends to go with it. It's been a constant battle trying to get the F-body PS pump and Ford rack to cooperate on our car, and when you throw a hydroboost into the mix, things get even more complex.
The setup that I'm in the process of trying out now is using a flow reducer fitting from Detroit Speed to reduce the flow of the pump from ~3 gpm as you quoted as the stock flow down to closer to 2 gpm. After seeing how this works in the pump, it's actually a simple procedure to change; less flow is just a matter of reducing the size of the hole in the output fitting. Of course, the problem is finding the fittings to do this. If I needed more flow it'd just be a matter of enlarging the hole a bit.
A quick word about these pumps, as well. The Corvette and F-body pumps look the similar, but the Corvette uses the superior TC pump, while the F-body pump is a CB pump. The Corvette pump has a smaller shaft than the F-body pump, so swapping pulleys between the two is not possible.
The early CTS-v pump is marked "TOYODA," and is unlike any of the others I've seen on these engines. It mounts on the drivers side head like an F-body pump.
The GTO pump is not a normal GM pump, either. It mounts in the same place as the F-body pump and with the same belt depth, and I'd venture a guess that the two could be mixed and matched if the pulleys, reservoirs and brackets were swapped, also.
The G8 pump looks to be the same as the GTO pump, but the calibration could be different. The mounting is also different, of course.
To my knowledge the truck pumps are all GM P (type I) pumps. These are very similar to the pumps that came on GM products dating back at least to the 60s.
The setup that I'm in the process of trying out now is using a flow reducer fitting from Detroit Speed to reduce the flow of the pump from ~3 gpm as you quoted as the stock flow down to closer to 2 gpm. After seeing how this works in the pump, it's actually a simple procedure to change; less flow is just a matter of reducing the size of the hole in the output fitting. Of course, the problem is finding the fittings to do this. If I needed more flow it'd just be a matter of enlarging the hole a bit.
A quick word about these pumps, as well. The Corvette and F-body pumps look the similar, but the Corvette uses the superior TC pump, while the F-body pump is a CB pump. The Corvette pump has a smaller shaft than the F-body pump, so swapping pulleys between the two is not possible.
The early CTS-v pump is marked "TOYODA," and is unlike any of the others I've seen on these engines. It mounts on the drivers side head like an F-body pump.
The GTO pump is not a normal GM pump, either. It mounts in the same place as the F-body pump and with the same belt depth, and I'd venture a guess that the two could be mixed and matched if the pulleys, reservoirs and brackets were swapped, also.
The G8 pump looks to be the same as the GTO pump, but the calibration could be different. The mounting is also different, of course.
To my knowledge the truck pumps are all GM P (type I) pumps. These are very similar to the pumps that came on GM products dating back at least to the 60s.
Last edited by Chris442; 04-03-2010 at 03:01 AM.
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04-03-2010, 03:04 PM
#8
If someone has pictures of each pump - front and back, that would really help.
I'm going to add the FWD ones, but first need to know the relative depth of the FWD vehicles
They are all pretty much the same, 2.4/2.8GPM, 1430-1500psi. That is for the 5.3's in the Malibu and Monte Carlo SS FWD cars. The other is the SSR, and it fits into the truck types - 3.1/3.5 and 1500-1600psi.
I'm going to add the FWD ones, but first need to know the relative depth of the FWD vehicles
They are all pretty much the same, 2.4/2.8GPM, 1430-1500psi. That is for the 5.3's in the Malibu and Monte Carlo SS FWD cars. The other is the SSR, and it fits into the truck types - 3.1/3.5 and 1500-1600psi.
04-03-2010, 08:57 PM
#12
To clarify for others. Fittings that reduce the size of the output change GPM/Flow rate. The spring mods change relief pressure. Depends on your goals.
For example - in the Mazda RX-7,(third gen), the stock PS rack is designed to run at 1100-1200psi. The stock Camaro/F-body pump runs at 1200-1300psi and a higher volume than the stock RX-7 PS pump. By cutting the spring an appropriate amount - the relive is closer to the 1100 psi of the Mazda rack. However, it also happens that the flow is still too high - so an outlet reducer would also be appropriate.
But with any swap - the big item is to best match what your rack requirements are with what's available. If you can't find a good match - companies like Turn 1 or KRC - they can custom spec pressure and output flow.
For example - in the Mazda RX-7,(third gen), the stock PS rack is designed to run at 1100-1200psi. The stock Camaro/F-body pump runs at 1200-1300psi and a higher volume than the stock RX-7 PS pump. By cutting the spring an appropriate amount - the relive is closer to the 1100 psi of the Mazda rack. However, it also happens that the flow is still too high - so an outlet reducer would also be appropriate.
But with any swap - the big item is to best match what your rack requirements are with what's available. If you can't find a good match - companies like Turn 1 or KRC - they can custom spec pressure and output flow.
04-05-2010, 10:49 AM
#13
To clarify for others. Fittings that reduce the size of the output change GPM/Flow rate. The spring mods change relief pressure. Depends on your goals.
For example - in the Mazda RX-7,(third gen), the stock PS rack is designed to run at 1100-1200psi. The stock Camaro/F-body pump runs at 1200-1300psi and a higher volume than the stock RX-7 PS pump. By cutting the spring an appropriate amount - the relive is closer to the 1100 psi of the Mazda rack. However, it also happens that the flow is still too high - so an outlet reducer would also be appropriate.
But with any swap - the big item is to best match what your rack requirements are with what's available. If you can't find a good match - companies like Turn 1 or KRC - they can custom spec pressure and output flow.
For example - in the Mazda RX-7,(third gen), the stock PS rack is designed to run at 1100-1200psi. The stock Camaro/F-body pump runs at 1200-1300psi and a higher volume than the stock RX-7 PS pump. By cutting the spring an appropriate amount - the relive is closer to the 1100 psi of the Mazda rack. However, it also happens that the flow is still too high - so an outlet reducer would also be appropriate.
But with any swap - the big item is to best match what your rack requirements are with what's available. If you can't find a good match - companies like Turn 1 or KRC - they can custom spec pressure and output flow.
in most swaps may get away with just using flow outlet fitting.
idk if i would go in and cut down the springs for my swap. im not sure i know what im doing if it comes to that.
most ppl should just be able to get away with just using a flow control valve. they are like 14$
06-17-2010, 01:29 PM
#14
I found this while searching for something different and wanted to put it here for reference for others who are researching different PS pumps to be used on older cars,(pre 1970):
Sorry, the original source I found this at stopped there - nothing more...
POWER STEERING PUMP – PRESSURES AND FLOWS
Where the Saginaw model 700 gear is known for its longevity, the Saginaw power steering P-pump has been around an equally long time. You most likely want to use your original pump with its reservoir and pulley. The good news is that your power steering pump can be quite easily upgraded for pressure and flow to work with your new fast ratio gear. The fitting on the back of the pump regulates the amount of oil flow from the pump. The flow control plunger, (which is inside the pump directly behind the fitting) controls the pressure relief. These parts are very interchangeable between various Saginaw P-pumps.
The Chevelle power steering pumps (before 1970) had relatively low pressure relief settings (950 psi). With modern wide tires and a fast steering ratio steering gear, you will probably want to increase the pressure relief setting of your pump. 1970 and later pumps had pressure relief settings of 1400 psi, so they should be very adequate.
Also, from 1964 through 1969 the Chevrolet power steering pump outlet incorporated a male fitting and therefore required a pressure hose with a female nut to connect to it. Starting in 1970 the fitting was converted to a 5/8-18 UNF female port with a 45 degree flare seat (the same as the rest of GM). Since your new fast ratio gear has metric ports you might even consider getting rid of either of the previous fittings that you have in your original pump and converting to a 16x1.5mm metric discharge fitting as well.
If you can obtain the pump that originally came with your fast ratio steering gear, this is the safest and best approach toward obtaining the discharge fitting and the flow control plunger that will give adequate flows and pressures for your steering system.
Another approach is find a P-pump used in Chevrolet and GMC C/K trucks that were built after 1979. Also the new lines of GM light duty pickups and SUV vehicles have P-pumps that can be used. These are the trucks with Chevrolet 4.3L V6, small block, or big block V8s. These pumps will all have 16x1.5mm metric discharge fittings.
However, if you have an early P-pump (1964 through 1969) and still want a 5/8-18 UNF female fitting with a 1400 psi pressure relief , you will need to find a P-pump from a 1976 through 1979 four wheel drive K-truck (not the two wheel drive C-truck).
Once you have the pump that you want, you will need to remove the discharge fitting that screws into the back of the pump. Then, you need to probe inside the discharge cavity and using a magnet or just tipping the pump you should be able to remove the flow control plunger (See Figure #3). This is the device that sets the pressure relief and it will interchange right into your original pump. First assemble the spring then the flow control plunger. Note, make sure that you orient the plunger so that the screen side of the plunger goes into the pump first (nest to the spring).
POWER STEERING HOSES
I don’t have any expertise with aftermarket power steering hoses. So I am not familiar with what types of end configurations, bends, etc that are available. If you are able to get the set of hoses from the vehicle that supplied your fast ratio gear, you might get lucky. They just might fit your car!!!
The most straightforward approach would be to use power steering hoses with metric fittings that screw directly into the ports of your fast ratio gear. Modify your pump as described earlier to also use a metric female discharge fitting.
However, there is another alternative. Lee Manufacturing sells small aluminum inserts that can be press fitted into steering gears with metric pressure and return ports. You use the original hoses with the 11/16-18 UNS and 5/8-18 UNF nuts and 45 degree flared ends. Since the metric and conventional threads are very close to each other you will find that the 5/8 nut screws very easily into the 16mm port, the 11/16 nut may need a little persuasion but it also will screw into the 18mm port. The face of the insert is cut at a 45 degree angle, so the old hoses will seal against it. There are two different inserts (#40620 - pressure) and #40630 - return) and he sells them at a reasonable price.
Lee Manufacturing
1661 Pendelton St.
Sun Valley, Ca. 91352
(818) 768-0371 (talk to Tom Lee or his wife)
As described in the pump section, you can also quite easily modify your pump for either a female 16x1.5mm o-ring port or to a female 5/8-18 UNF 45 degree flare port by finding
Where the Saginaw model 700 gear is known for its longevity, the Saginaw power steering P-pump has been around an equally long time. You most likely want to use your original pump with its reservoir and pulley. The good news is that your power steering pump can be quite easily upgraded for pressure and flow to work with your new fast ratio gear. The fitting on the back of the pump regulates the amount of oil flow from the pump. The flow control plunger, (which is inside the pump directly behind the fitting) controls the pressure relief. These parts are very interchangeable between various Saginaw P-pumps.
The Chevelle power steering pumps (before 1970) had relatively low pressure relief settings (950 psi). With modern wide tires and a fast steering ratio steering gear, you will probably want to increase the pressure relief setting of your pump. 1970 and later pumps had pressure relief settings of 1400 psi, so they should be very adequate.
Also, from 1964 through 1969 the Chevrolet power steering pump outlet incorporated a male fitting and therefore required a pressure hose with a female nut to connect to it. Starting in 1970 the fitting was converted to a 5/8-18 UNF female port with a 45 degree flare seat (the same as the rest of GM). Since your new fast ratio gear has metric ports you might even consider getting rid of either of the previous fittings that you have in your original pump and converting to a 16x1.5mm metric discharge fitting as well.
If you can obtain the pump that originally came with your fast ratio steering gear, this is the safest and best approach toward obtaining the discharge fitting and the flow control plunger that will give adequate flows and pressures for your steering system.
Another approach is find a P-pump used in Chevrolet and GMC C/K trucks that were built after 1979. Also the new lines of GM light duty pickups and SUV vehicles have P-pumps that can be used. These are the trucks with Chevrolet 4.3L V6, small block, or big block V8s. These pumps will all have 16x1.5mm metric discharge fittings.
However, if you have an early P-pump (1964 through 1969) and still want a 5/8-18 UNF female fitting with a 1400 psi pressure relief , you will need to find a P-pump from a 1976 through 1979 four wheel drive K-truck (not the two wheel drive C-truck).
Once you have the pump that you want, you will need to remove the discharge fitting that screws into the back of the pump. Then, you need to probe inside the discharge cavity and using a magnet or just tipping the pump you should be able to remove the flow control plunger (See Figure #3). This is the device that sets the pressure relief and it will interchange right into your original pump. First assemble the spring then the flow control plunger. Note, make sure that you orient the plunger so that the screen side of the plunger goes into the pump first (nest to the spring).
POWER STEERING HOSES
I don’t have any expertise with aftermarket power steering hoses. So I am not familiar with what types of end configurations, bends, etc that are available. If you are able to get the set of hoses from the vehicle that supplied your fast ratio gear, you might get lucky. They just might fit your car!!!
The most straightforward approach would be to use power steering hoses with metric fittings that screw directly into the ports of your fast ratio gear. Modify your pump as described earlier to also use a metric female discharge fitting.
However, there is another alternative. Lee Manufacturing sells small aluminum inserts that can be press fitted into steering gears with metric pressure and return ports. You use the original hoses with the 11/16-18 UNS and 5/8-18 UNF nuts and 45 degree flared ends. Since the metric and conventional threads are very close to each other you will find that the 5/8 nut screws very easily into the 16mm port, the 11/16 nut may need a little persuasion but it also will screw into the 18mm port. The face of the insert is cut at a 45 degree angle, so the old hoses will seal against it. There are two different inserts (#40620 - pressure) and #40630 - return) and he sells them at a reasonable price.
Lee Manufacturing
1661 Pendelton St.
Sun Valley, Ca. 91352
(818) 768-0371 (talk to Tom Lee or his wife)
As described in the pump section, you can also quite easily modify your pump for either a female 16x1.5mm o-ring port or to a female 5/8-18 UNF 45 degree flare port by finding
08-30-2010, 10:41 AM
#15
Launching!
1986 Elcamino with LS1 power steering upgrade issues I have been searching for some info. I just upgraded my power steering gear box to a new Delphi 12.7:1 from OPGI.com for my 1986 Elcamino. It was physically a different outside shape than my stock wore out one but it bolted up to the frame rail and to the steering wheel shaft. I connected the lines to the same position as the stock version.
My issue is the steering is very hard to turn as if it doesn't have power steering. I know it is working someway as I can turn it with the car stationary and the feel is the same. There is about a 2 inch dead spot at center then it hits the hard to turn section where it almost takes two hands to turn. The stock LS1 pump from the Camaro assessory package was working fine with my stock 1986 power steering gear box so I expected it to work with this new one. What is the problem?
My thoughts are as follows:
1.) The 12.7:1 is suppose to be this stiff which would make daily driving and long distance driving very tiring.
2.) The LS1 power steering pump needs to change in either volume or pressure or both to increase the force to make it easier to steer.
3.) Could the input/output lines be swapped? I connected them to the same position as my original gear box.
Any ideas as to the problem?
I expected the turn ratio to be better but get the same single finger turn feel. It is stiffer than my 2000 Corvette. It feels like it is manual steer.
(Also this new power steering gearbox is hitting the alternator which originally cleared my stock gearbox. I had about 1/8 inch clearance when I installed the gearbox but the engine running at idle I can feel the engine vibration through the frame. My only solution is to grind on the fin of the alternator to crate some space.)
See attached pictures
James
My issue is the steering is very hard to turn as if it doesn't have power steering. I know it is working someway as I can turn it with the car stationary and the feel is the same. There is about a 2 inch dead spot at center then it hits the hard to turn section where it almost takes two hands to turn. The stock LS1 pump from the Camaro assessory package was working fine with my stock 1986 power steering gear box so I expected it to work with this new one. What is the problem?
My thoughts are as follows:
1.) The 12.7:1 is suppose to be this stiff which would make daily driving and long distance driving very tiring.
2.) The LS1 power steering pump needs to change in either volume or pressure or both to increase the force to make it easier to steer.
3.) Could the input/output lines be swapped? I connected them to the same position as my original gear box.
Any ideas as to the problem?
I expected the turn ratio to be better but get the same single finger turn feel. It is stiffer than my 2000 Corvette. It feels like it is manual steer.
(Also this new power steering gearbox is hitting the alternator which originally cleared my stock gearbox. I had about 1/8 inch clearance when I installed the gearbox but the engine running at idle I can feel the engine vibration through the frame. My only solution is to grind on the fin of the alternator to crate some space.)
See attached pictures
James
08-30-2010, 08:20 PM
#16
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I have been searching for some info. I just upgraded my power steering gear box to a new Delphi 12.7:1 from OPGI.com for my 1986 Elcamino. It was physically a different outside shape than my stock wore out one but it bolted up to the frame rail and to the steering wheel shaft. I connected the lines to the same position as the stock version.
My issue is the steering is very hard to turn as if it doesn't have power steering. I know it is working someway as I can turn it with the car stationary and the feel is the same. There is about a 2 inch dead spot at center then it hits the hard to turn section where it almost takes two hands to turn. The stock LS1 pump from the Camaro assessory package was working fine with my stock 1986 power steering gear box so I expected it to work with this new one. What is the problem?
My thoughts are as follows:
1.) The 12.7:1 is suppose to be this stiff which would make daily driving and long distance driving very tiring.
2.) The LS1 power steering pump needs to change in either volume or pressure or both to increase the force to make it easier to steer.
3.) Could the input/output lines be swapped? I connected them to the same position as my original gear box.
Any ideas as to the problem?
I expected the turn ratio to be better but get the same single finger turn feel. It is stiffer than my 2000 Corvette. It feels like it is manual steer.
(Also this new power steering gearbox is hitting the alternator which originally cleared my stock gearbox. I had about 1/8 inch clearance when I installed the gearbox but the engine running at idle I can feel the engine vibration through the frame. My only solution is to grind on the fin of the alternator to crate some space.)
See attached pictures
James
My issue is the steering is very hard to turn as if it doesn't have power steering. I know it is working someway as I can turn it with the car stationary and the feel is the same. There is about a 2 inch dead spot at center then it hits the hard to turn section where it almost takes two hands to turn. The stock LS1 pump from the Camaro assessory package was working fine with my stock 1986 power steering gear box so I expected it to work with this new one. What is the problem?
My thoughts are as follows:
1.) The 12.7:1 is suppose to be this stiff which would make daily driving and long distance driving very tiring.
2.) The LS1 power steering pump needs to change in either volume or pressure or both to increase the force to make it easier to steer.
3.) Could the input/output lines be swapped? I connected them to the same position as my original gear box.
Any ideas as to the problem?
I expected the turn ratio to be better but get the same single finger turn feel. It is stiffer than my 2000 Corvette. It feels like it is manual steer.
(Also this new power steering gearbox is hitting the alternator which originally cleared my stock gearbox. I had about 1/8 inch clearance when I installed the gearbox but the engine running at idle I can feel the engine vibration through the frame. My only solution is to grind on the fin of the alternator to crate some space.)
See attached pictures
James
08-30-2010, 09:39 PM
#17
Launching!
I briefly started the car and the oil tank drained quickly so I stopped the engine refilled and started it again. I kept filling the tank with the engine running until it held the same level running or not running. I have driven the car a few blocks so I think I have the air out of it.
I am thinking of returning the gear box and getting my money back. I would send my original off and get it rebuilt. At least I know it will bolt up and should work as it worked well just had a lot of slop.
Question: Upgrading to the 12.7:1 quick ratio should it still turn effortlessly but just quickly or will it be hard to turn? I don't think so but maybe I am mistaken.
I am thinking of returning the gear box and getting my money back. I would send my original off and get it rebuilt. At least I know it will bolt up and should work as it worked well just had a lot of slop.
Question: Upgrading to the 12.7:1 quick ratio should it still turn effortlessly but just quickly or will it be hard to turn? I don't think so but maybe I am mistaken.
12-11-2010, 09:21 PM
#19
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The first depth is the C5/C6 Corvettes, Caddy CTS-V, Pontiac G8
Corvette LS1, LS6, LS2, LS7,(and I think supercharged LS9):
2.4/2.8 GPM 1250/1350 psi
Pontiac G8
2.0 GPM 1200-1300 psi
(of note for FD swaps, V6 model is 1100-1200 psi, I'm checking to see if it can work with the G8 accessories, doubt it)
Cadillac CTS-V, all years with LS6 and LS2:
1.9-2.1 GPM 1640/1740 psi
I think this is the shallow depth?:
2009+ CTS-V from LSA motor:
2.7 GPM, 1625/1850
Next grouping is GTO/F-body depth accessories
GTO - ALL YEARS w/LS6 and LS2,(04-06):
1.95/2.35 GPM 1100/1200 psi
Camaro/F-body 98-2002:
2.7/3.1 GPM 1200-1300 psi
Corvette LS1, LS6, LS2, LS7,(and I think supercharged LS9):
2.4/2.8 GPM 1250/1350 psi
Pontiac G8
2.0 GPM 1200-1300 psi
(of note for FD swaps, V6 model is 1100-1200 psi, I'm checking to see if it can work with the G8 accessories, doubt it)
Cadillac CTS-V, all years with LS6 and LS2:
1.9-2.1 GPM 1640/1740 psi
I think this is the shallow depth?:
2009+ CTS-V from LSA motor:
2.7 GPM, 1625/1850
Next grouping is GTO/F-body depth accessories
GTO - ALL YEARS w/LS6 and LS2,(04-06):
1.95/2.35 GPM 1100/1200 psi
Camaro/F-body 98-2002:
2.7/3.1 GPM 1200-1300 psi
Correct me if I'm wrong, pump GPM is a reult of pump design and speed. Pressure is a result of the relief spring. To get more "feel" it would seem to me a swap of the pressure relief spring with a GTO would give maybe a little more feel.
Thoughts???
06-17-2011, 10:29 AM
#20
Staging Lane
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: NC
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help Having the same issues. I blew out the stock rack because i didnt know the pump over flowed the rack. I got a new rack and added a restrictor in the line the outlet on the restrictor is 50% smaller then the original hole. After driving it around for a week the new rack is blown. I'm thinking about trimming this spring to relieve the pressure.