71 Nogo slowly getting a boring lq4/4l80 build
#61
Finally got the headers. There is tons of room around the steering box due to the #3 tubes routing
but in return, it looks like I can not use my column shifter I really wanted that
I also will need to trim the drivers side motor mount as it hits the #1 tube
Clearance under the car is okay, if I were to pro-tour the car, I would want headers that tucked up higher, but for my car it will be just fine. All and all, for a coated set of headers for $400, not a bad deal....... still wish I could do the steering column shifter though....... Now to find some header bolts as the stainless ones I bought were too big
So, as it stands, I will keep the retro lsx pan, and sell the f-body pan, but still need to bolt it up to make sure.
but in return, it looks like I can not use my column shifter I really wanted that
I also will need to trim the drivers side motor mount as it hits the #1 tube
Clearance under the car is okay, if I were to pro-tour the car, I would want headers that tucked up higher, but for my car it will be just fine. All and all, for a coated set of headers for $400, not a bad deal....... still wish I could do the steering column shifter though....... Now to find some header bolts as the stainless ones I bought were too big
So, as it stands, I will keep the retro lsx pan, and sell the f-body pan, but still need to bolt it up to make sure.
#67
They are the dynatech headers. Looking into what it would take to bend this to make it work. thanks guys
Edit: dang it, I forgot the column is a tilt/floor shifted model and there is no nub to put the arm on the column. Looks like I am going aftermarket shifter after all since I don't want to give up the tilt.
bill (does not care for aftermarket shifters)
Edit: dang it, I forgot the column is a tilt/floor shifted model and there is no nub to put the arm on the column. Looks like I am going aftermarket shifter after all since I don't want to give up the tilt.
bill (does not care for aftermarket shifters)
#69
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Gilmer, Texas
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Were the Dynatech's these http://www.summitracing.com/parts.as...C-11591140030C
#75
TECH Addict
iTrader: (3)
I have read through your thread and need to ask a question. Did you mount the engine in the 1" forward position? Would it not be better to move the engine back to say standard or even 1" rearward? That would give you the clearance at the motor mount without modification and would help out the trans mount bolt hole location. Just wondering because I am getting ready to do a similar swap into my 69 Camaro. I may have missed something reading I am sort of slow. Thanks! Great looking car by the way.
#76
Sorry for the lack of any updates, but there have been none. Started building a second garage and tried to beat the winter. Got it far enough to last through winter, but need to finish it in the spring, so no new updates.
I will turn the heat on in the garage and start working on the poor nogo again soon.
I am using the f-body accessory drive setup. If I did not raise the motor, the alternator might have been a problem. As it is, I have basically no real clearance with the tranny and tranny tunnel, as I needed to raise it as much as I could to get -5* on the tranny. It will improve a little as the front of the car is way too high since the big block went bye bye, and even with the big block it was a bit high.
I went with the non-setback plates, and the tranny crossmember will only need the mount plate cut out and welded in at a lower position, and two holes drilled (one per side) to fit, pretty good fit overall
I tried the boiling method to get these plastic lines soft enough to put the fittings in, but not even close. I might have to bite the bullet and buy the tool to expand the fuel line
I will turn the heat on in the garage and start working on the poor nogo again soon.
I am using the f-body accessory drive setup. If I did not raise the motor, the alternator might have been a problem. As it is, I have basically no real clearance with the tranny and tranny tunnel, as I needed to raise it as much as I could to get -5* on the tranny. It will improve a little as the front of the car is way too high since the big block went bye bye, and even with the big block it was a bit high.
I went with the non-setback plates, and the tranny crossmember will only need the mount plate cut out and welded in at a lower position, and two holes drilled (one per side) to fit, pretty good fit overall
I tried the boiling method to get these plastic lines soft enough to put the fittings in, but not even close. I might have to bite the bullet and buy the tool to expand the fuel line
Last edited by billsnogo; 01-08-2011 at 08:25 AM.