71 Nogo slowly getting a boring lq4/4l80 build
#81
Just clearing up around the car to get started on the car again since I turned the heat on again in the attached garage. Still not 100% sure I like how the motor sits, but may live with it and if I get drivetrain vibration, I will pull the motor and notch the subframe.
Need to remove the washers and make up some spacers the correct thickness under the frame stands, trim the one motor mount, drill two holes on the passengers side, and then finally bolt the motor completely down. Once that is done, it should go pretty decent...... I hope
#82
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Nice shop Bill. I know the feeling about slow updates. I finally got out to shop last week for the first time since October. Hopefully in the spring I'll be putting on an addition on my shop. It will be a 'tool area'.
#83
Well, finally did something worth updating. I should have done this a long time ago instead of messing around trying to get everything to fit with the factory frame mounts. Decided to make up some that would require no drilling, cutting, modifying of the subframe. All I need to do is stick weld them next week in class, if I can't get it done then I need to find one to borrow. They are only tack welded right now, but was able to put the full weight of motor/tranny on them and I can fit a thin piece of cardboard under the oil pan!
Last edited by billsnogo; 08-13-2011 at 11:14 PM.
#85
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I don't mean to rain on the parade or anything, but consider that the engine is going to move around a bit even on poly mounts and you may need more clearance. Do you have the transmission mounted in that picture so the engine & tranny are tilted at the desired install angle? If you raise the tranny any, the front of the engine will come down a bit. You may be just fine - all I'm saying is to check and make sure you're comfortable with the clearances.
#86
I don't mean to rain on the parade or anything, but consider that the engine is going to move around a bit even on poly mounts and you may need more clearance. Do you have the transmission mounted in that picture so the engine & tranny are tilted at the desired install angle? If you raise the tranny any, the front of the engine will come down a bit. You may be just fine - all I'm saying is to check and make sure you're comfortable with the clearances.
edit:
Great, now you have me paranoid even though I know it is fine. I could slide a piece of 1/8" plate under the pan, no more than that. It has plenty of clearance on the sides where I would assume it would rock, but right in the center there is a high spot that has only 1/8" of space. REALLY hard to get a good pic of the gap. I have the tranny at the height I want it, which is JUST below 5* down. If I raise it any more, I will need to cut the tunnel as I don't want it right against it.
I promise updates will be a little more frequent
Last edited by billsnogo; 04-14-2011 at 07:05 PM.
#87
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Looking good! We have missed ya!
Just in case you have a clearance issue you could make another set of bases to act like a shim and use the current bases as a template instead of spacers. It would give you more contact are and would provide better stability. If you need my welder bring the stands on over. Of course I am in North Carolina, lol! Keep up the good work and glad to have you back.
Just in case you have a clearance issue you could make another set of bases to act like a shim and use the current bases as a template instead of spacers. It would give you more contact are and would provide better stability. If you need my welder bring the stands on over. Of course I am in North Carolina, lol! Keep up the good work and glad to have you back.
#90
Sadly, no. Decided to go back to school again, so that and home repairs have sucked up most of my cash and time. I have the mounts all welded up and ready to go in, then need to finish modifying the tranny crossmember, then will start the fuel system. Probably will not be much for updates until this fall
#91
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Sadly, no. Decided to go back to school again, so that and home repairs have sucked up most of my cash and time. I have the mounts all welded up and ready to go in, then need to finish modifying the tranny crossmember, then will start the fuel system. Probably will not be much for updates until this fall
#92
Well, got new motivation and back to work on the nogo after getting motivation from LS1nova and his turbo charged beast
Still waiting for the friggin headers from jegs. I am getting pretty ticked after I found out another person on here also had there on backorder from summit, but only had to wait a few days unlike me (looking at 2 months ) so not 100% sure which way to go. Ordered a new f-body pan, but might end up selling it anyways since things are going pretty well with the jzmotorworks pan. Not sure though.
Put an angle finder on the crank pulley and shows about 4-4.5 degrees with the tail downward, and from what I can find, that is acceptable, and will be even less when the car is lowered as it is WAY to high in the front with the big block springs
With three washers under each of the three bolts on the drivers side, and none on the passengers side, with the load plate behind the energy suspensions motor mounts, I get just enough oil pan clearance to not have contact, maybe just enough clearance for the coil to powerbooster, and have the alternator clear the subframe. But I will still need to drill two holes for the frame stand on the passengers side, only one existing hole can be used. Will use all three on the drivers side.
Not only that, it looks like I can use my th400 crossmember, one bolt hole lines up with existing hole, but will need to drill the second.
Unfortunately, the energy suspension tranny mount will not fit, I need a shorter one..... don't know if the factory rubber one is shorter, or will need to cut this one, but still pretty pleased
That, or I will cut out the plate where the mount meets the crossmember and lower it
Still waiting for the friggin headers from jegs. I am getting pretty ticked after I found out another person on here also had there on backorder from summit, but only had to wait a few days unlike me (looking at 2 months ) so not 100% sure which way to go. Ordered a new f-body pan, but might end up selling it anyways since things are going pretty well with the jzmotorworks pan. Not sure though.
Put an angle finder on the crank pulley and shows about 4-4.5 degrees with the tail downward, and from what I can find, that is acceptable, and will be even less when the car is lowered as it is WAY to high in the front with the big block springs
With three washers under each of the three bolts on the drivers side, and none on the passengers side, with the load plate behind the energy suspensions motor mounts, I get just enough oil pan clearance to not have contact, maybe just enough clearance for the coil to powerbooster, and have the alternator clear the subframe. But I will still need to drill two holes for the frame stand on the passengers side, only one existing hole can be used. Will use all three on the drivers side.
Not only that, it looks like I can use my th400 crossmember, one bolt hole lines up with existing hole, but will need to drill the second.
Unfortunately, the energy suspension tranny mount will not fit, I need a shorter one..... don't know if the factory rubber one is shorter, or will need to cut this one, but still pretty pleased
That, or I will cut out the plate where the mount meets the crossmember and lower it
#96
Well, took a break from home repairs and working on the new garage and had some short, but quality time with the nogo. I have had the frame mounts welded up since the middle of April, but never installed them, only painted them. Decided to install them and see if I measured things correctly.
Could not be any happier, plenty of clearance under the oil pan. Should have just made my own from the start
Engine angle just below 5*, and when I lower the front, should be even less. Next up is finishing the tranny crossmember, then the fuel system with those very stubborn plastic lines and fittings
Been throwing around the idea of doing something stupid and trying to use 98+ blazer gauges, just not sure how much of a headache it would be.
that is all for now.....
Could not be any happier, plenty of clearance under the oil pan. Should have just made my own from the start
Engine angle just below 5*, and when I lower the front, should be even less. Next up is finishing the tranny crossmember, then the fuel system with those very stubborn plastic lines and fittings
Been throwing around the idea of doing something stupid and trying to use 98+ blazer gauges, just not sure how much of a headache it would be.
that is all for now.....
#100
If my motor had been right at the firewall like many others with the setback plates, it would not have worked as the bolt on the tailhousing hits the crossmember. My motor has to be around the standard non-setback plates would put the motor so it JUST clears.