LS1 and 200-4r to L92 / T56 in 71 Chevelle convertible...now Gen V LT1 6L80e swapping
10-02-2011, 10:17 AM
#241
Do you have any thoughts on why you have such carbon buildup?
10-02-2011, 11:36 AM
#242
Yeah, it was burning oil, but all the guides were good and the shop didn't see anything in the heads that would explain it. He said other things to consider would be a ring issue, a bad tune and PCV routing. The pcv never changed and smoking was something that got worse over time so I ruled that out. It does need a new tune, but it too hasn't changed. Taking a good look at the cylinder walls I did find this -
Looks a lot like this guy's, but mine doesn't go all the way to the edge- https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ics-added.html
Needless to say I didn't put the heads on. I did get the engine ready to pull, which at this point I could probably do in my sleep, and I am going to try to get it to the shop tomorrow. Depending on the cost of repair I might just look for something else. What sucks is that I was going to order a hood, deck lid and some fender braces from Anvil tomorrow but now I might have to divert those funds to yet more engine work. Anything over $500 and I don't see much point in saving an LS1 block.
Looks a lot like this guy's, but mine doesn't go all the way to the edge- https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ics-added.html
Needless to say I didn't put the heads on. I did get the engine ready to pull, which at this point I could probably do in my sleep, and I am going to try to get it to the shop tomorrow. Depending on the cost of repair I might just look for something else. What sucks is that I was going to order a hood, deck lid and some fender braces from Anvil tomorrow but now I might have to divert those funds to yet more engine work. Anything over $500 and I don't see much point in saving an LS1 block.
10-02-2011, 12:22 PM
#243
Now is the time to go stroker. It will probably save you money in the long run. ( You will crave/get it in the future)
10-02-2011, 12:26 PM
#244
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Wow Chuck you have been having the worst luck on this swap. I know you must be very frustrated at not getting to play with all the new toys on the car. Hopefully this will be cheap to fix and let you get your car on the road.
With basically everything updated it should be fun when you work out all the kinks.
With basically everything updated it should be fun when you work out all the kinks.
10-02-2011, 12:28 PM
#245
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QFT. At this point in my swap (close to the same point yours is with just a few odds and ends to button up to be "finished") if this happened and I could swing it I would defiantly be looking for someone reliable to put together a 408.
10-02-2011, 12:59 PM
#246
Constantly dumping money into it without being able to drive it is getting frustrating, and now that it's getting cold even when it is finished it won't be worth driving for a while. Luck doesn't seem to be in my favor, and when I look back I can't see that I've done anything any differently than most other people; I've been careful with everything and have tried to do tons of research, follow directions and read books but it seems like it's one thing after another. I guess that's the downside to buying used. On the bright side though, if this is the worst thing happening in my life then things aren't too bad.
At this point the odds and ends are starting to add up. Right now in the foyer or whatever I have my air ride setup, the c6 swap stuff, the speedhut gauges and then there is at least as much crap sitting in the garage waiting to be used.
I think for now I'll sell the T56 I bought and focus on everything else since I have too many projects and not enough time as-is. If the engine repair is $500ish I'll just go that route and keep it until the rest of the car is done, at that point I'll start watching the classifieds and pick up a motor someone else has had built and needs to sell. Every now and then a fresh build pops up, and it's always cheaper to let someone else take the initial hit on these things. Maybe I'll sell the air ride stuff as well, I'm not as excited about it as I once was.
At this point the odds and ends are starting to add up. Right now in the foyer or whatever I have my air ride setup, the c6 swap stuff, the speedhut gauges and then there is at least as much crap sitting in the garage waiting to be used.
I think for now I'll sell the T56 I bought and focus on everything else since I have too many projects and not enough time as-is. If the engine repair is $500ish I'll just go that route and keep it until the rest of the car is done, at that point I'll start watching the classifieds and pick up a motor someone else has had built and needs to sell. Every now and then a fresh build pops up, and it's always cheaper to let someone else take the initial hit on these things. Maybe I'll sell the air ride stuff as well, I'm not as excited about it as I once was.
10-03-2011, 08:31 PM
#247
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Sorry to hear about your luck - again. If you need any help, let me know. I am up for a wrenching session to help you get that motor out again.
I have also been keeping an eye on the classifieds section here with the short/long blocks. My plan is to put this motor together and run it as it is (stock) for now. Then, just do like you said and buy some pre-assembled block to slide under my other stuff.
Anyway - like I said, let me know if you need a hand!
I have also been keeping an eye on the classifieds section here with the short/long blocks. My plan is to put this motor together and run it as it is (stock) for now. Then, just do like you said and buy some pre-assembled block to slide under my other stuff.
Anyway - like I said, let me know if you need a hand!
10-04-2011, 02:49 AM
#248
I might take you up on your offer when the brake swap comes around once I clean out the garage. When I left it over the weekend (I'm in green hills but car is in LaVergne) all that was left to do was unbolt one last bolt holding the engine to the trans and then I can yank it. Should be quick once I find some free time.
If you have an angle grinder and a welder we could use my car as a guinea pig for throwing the t56s in though. At this point what's the worst that could happen? I think I understand the basics - cut, test, cut, test, weld. Seems easy enough.
If you have an angle grinder and a welder we could use my car as a guinea pig for throwing the t56s in though. At this point what's the worst that could happen? I think I understand the basics - cut, test, cut, test, weld. Seems easy enough.
10-04-2011, 10:08 AM
#249
I know what you mean as far as one thing after another happening. Keep moving forward. What you are going through, I and countless others have also. As far as the used thing goes, it can also happen with all new stuff... well hope this thing turns around for you real fast and heads in a positive direction! Cause I'm living by these threads right now...
Until, I get some parts in and get moving along... Im a long way away from where I want to be...
Until, I get some parts in and get moving along... Im a long way away from where I want to be...
10-11-2011, 02:35 PM
#250
Been working a ton lately and weighing the engine replacement options so not much has happened. I was *this* close to buying a complete ls2 or l92 pullout, but that requires $$$ up front, me selling stuff and then playing the nickle and dime game all over again. I found an ls6 pretty locally that I will probably end up buying since not only is it over $3k cheaper it will also just slide right in. The ls2 or l92 would certainly be 'better', but that $3000 savings will be enough to finish the car. For cruising up and down the street I think this is the right choice.
Engine matters aside, I started trying to take the dash apart and get the gauges mounted. Getting the stuff in the pillar was easy but it looks like I have to pull or at least really loosen the entire dash to get at the console. Bad news - doing so is not fun and the mess that is the vintage air kit will only make it worse. Good news - the speedhut wiring is cool (if not a bit short) as everything kind of plugs together. A much cleaner setup than my old autometer gauges.
Sadly this is where we are up front. Bad news - kind of stuck here until I can get the garage cleaned and the hood off. Good news - the anvil carbon hood that will cover all this back up should be here next week.
Engine matters aside, I started trying to take the dash apart and get the gauges mounted. Getting the stuff in the pillar was easy but it looks like I have to pull or at least really loosen the entire dash to get at the console. Bad news - doing so is not fun and the mess that is the vintage air kit will only make it worse. Good news - the speedhut wiring is cool (if not a bit short) as everything kind of plugs together. A much cleaner setup than my old autometer gauges.
Sadly this is where we are up front. Bad news - kind of stuck here until I can get the garage cleaned and the hood off. Good news - the anvil carbon hood that will cover all this back up should be here next week.
10-15-2011, 02:49 PM
#251
Didn't feel like getting covered in grease today so I got back to work on the interior. Most of this post will hardly be ls-related, but it's a lot of stuff I was curious about and wish I had known before for planning purposes.
I started days ago by searching around to see how to get the gauge cluster out, and everything I read had said to drop the steering column, pull the kick panels, blah blah blah. That sounded like a massive waste of time so I didn't do any of it. What I decided to do was leave the steering column in place and use it to hold the dash up after I took it's bolts out. With the dash pad off I took out the dash bolts then just slid the dash toward me about 6 inches and let it sit on the steering column. From here (and below) I had access to all the 1/4 inch screws holding the cluster in place. Unplugging the headlight switch was easy as well, and other than the speedo cable the only thing holding the gauges in were some random grounds and an odd ground that tied into the wiper motor switch. A couple more bolts pulled and the cluster was free.
I missed them while I was working, but in addition to the 1/4 bolts visible from above there are two more on the bottom of the cluster. Easy to get to from below (or they would have been had I noticed them). Note the blue plastic where I broke my housing by leaving the screw in. Not too concerned about it, as this plastic pretty much shatters when you touch it anyway.
Dash still in place more or less, minus gauges. This was really a rather painless job, maybe an hour's work, less if you know where your tools are. It might take longer if you were replacing with stock gauges and stock wiring, but I'm not so I had little incentive to preserve random wires.
Having never messed with a cluster before I wasn't sure how the gauges mounted or how they sat in the housing, this was making me wonder how the speedhut stuff was going to fit. Turns out the stock gauge faces are wider than the dash holes and they just kind of sit back behind them. The speedhut gauges will fit completely inside the opening.
This is the basic piece you end up with that you need to keep. The guage carrier itself doesn't look to be needed.
Note the mm or so gap all the way around. This will be a non-issue in the end but just goes to show that they will fit no problem. I know someone else has already put these in their car but I wasn't quite sure how it all went together.
These next pictures show how I was afraid the 3 3/8" gauges would fit - stuck behind some plastic and half covered. First is what the clock itself looks like, second is how it looks behind the gauge opening. I The lenses and bezels are removable so I can try to line it up a bit better, but I'm not sold on this location or look so I might just leave the current (non-functional) gauges there and put the clock somewhere else. The obstructed clock would be useable but kind of half-assed.
Just a thought, but my factory gauges not working might have something to do with the fried pcb. I can appreciate their functionality but these circuit boards pretty much suck.
Going to finish up the gauges on Monday and then try and decide whether to buy a wiring harness and rewire the whole car or just leave what I have for another year.
To sum up what I learned today:
Pulling the dash is not required to get the gauges out.
Dropping the steering column is not necessary and in fact would have been counterproductive. Pulling the steering wheel wouldn't hurt.
Speedhut 3 3/8 gauges will fit in the big holes without being covered up; the small 2 1/16 (or whatever) gauges, not so much.
40 year old plastic is brittle as ****.
I need a bigger garage.
I started days ago by searching around to see how to get the gauge cluster out, and everything I read had said to drop the steering column, pull the kick panels, blah blah blah. That sounded like a massive waste of time so I didn't do any of it. What I decided to do was leave the steering column in place and use it to hold the dash up after I took it's bolts out. With the dash pad off I took out the dash bolts then just slid the dash toward me about 6 inches and let it sit on the steering column. From here (and below) I had access to all the 1/4 inch screws holding the cluster in place. Unplugging the headlight switch was easy as well, and other than the speedo cable the only thing holding the gauges in were some random grounds and an odd ground that tied into the wiper motor switch. A couple more bolts pulled and the cluster was free.
I missed them while I was working, but in addition to the 1/4 bolts visible from above there are two more on the bottom of the cluster. Easy to get to from below (or they would have been had I noticed them). Note the blue plastic where I broke my housing by leaving the screw in. Not too concerned about it, as this plastic pretty much shatters when you touch it anyway.
Dash still in place more or less, minus gauges. This was really a rather painless job, maybe an hour's work, less if you know where your tools are. It might take longer if you were replacing with stock gauges and stock wiring, but I'm not so I had little incentive to preserve random wires.
Having never messed with a cluster before I wasn't sure how the gauges mounted or how they sat in the housing, this was making me wonder how the speedhut stuff was going to fit. Turns out the stock gauge faces are wider than the dash holes and they just kind of sit back behind them. The speedhut gauges will fit completely inside the opening.
This is the basic piece you end up with that you need to keep. The guage carrier itself doesn't look to be needed.
Note the mm or so gap all the way around. This will be a non-issue in the end but just goes to show that they will fit no problem. I know someone else has already put these in their car but I wasn't quite sure how it all went together.
These next pictures show how I was afraid the 3 3/8" gauges would fit - stuck behind some plastic and half covered. First is what the clock itself looks like, second is how it looks behind the gauge opening. I The lenses and bezels are removable so I can try to line it up a bit better, but I'm not sold on this location or look so I might just leave the current (non-functional) gauges there and put the clock somewhere else. The obstructed clock would be useable but kind of half-assed.
Just a thought, but my factory gauges not working might have something to do with the fried pcb. I can appreciate their functionality but these circuit boards pretty much suck.
Going to finish up the gauges on Monday and then try and decide whether to buy a wiring harness and rewire the whole car or just leave what I have for another year.
To sum up what I learned today:
Pulling the dash is not required to get the gauges out.
Dropping the steering column is not necessary and in fact would have been counterproductive. Pulling the steering wheel wouldn't hurt.
Speedhut 3 3/8 gauges will fit in the big holes without being covered up; the small 2 1/16 (or whatever) gauges, not so much.
40 year old plastic is brittle as ****.
I need a bigger garage.
Last edited by chuckd71; 10-18-2011 at 02:49 AM.
10-20-2011, 05:08 PM
#252
After that last update work on the car was moved to the back burner while I dealt with sorting out a stolen check situation. Some dirtbags stole some checks from my apt in town and were having fun for a couple days, one even cashed a check at the bank WHILE I WAS THERE REPORTING THE FRAUD AND TRYING TO CLOSE MY ACCOUNT. Sorry for the all caps but that entire ordeal was the stupidest **** I've ever experienced. The guy even cashed it with the teller I had just told about my stolen checks. They of course let him get away and didn't tell me about it until he drove off. Yes, this was Bank of America. Moving on...
On a positive note I did get a couple big boxes today, delivered by a full-sized tractor trailer with nothing else in it. Seemed like a bit of overkill, but whatever works I guess.
I've always been a fan of unboxing pics of cool stuff so here we go. If you are considering picking some of these up and want a picture of any particular mounting point, corner, whatever just let me know. This is all from Anvil.
Opening.
Finally unwrapped.
Underside of the trunk lid, I think I saw someone ask for a shot of it over on pro-touring.
This is the back ridge where it meets the windshield. There is a lip, but nothing to stick the trim on I don't think (not that I was going to anyway).
And the fender braces. These are for a first gen camaro but I was thinking I would use them anyway. Will probably sell them to pay for some new gas springs for my hood hinges.
As soon as I ordered this stuff I started to second guess myself, but this stuff looks bad *** when the sun hits it. Eventually I'll paint everything but the stripes a metallic pearl but I think it will look cool enough that I won't have to hurry.
On a positive note I did get a couple big boxes today, delivered by a full-sized tractor trailer with nothing else in it. Seemed like a bit of overkill, but whatever works I guess.
I've always been a fan of unboxing pics of cool stuff so here we go. If you are considering picking some of these up and want a picture of any particular mounting point, corner, whatever just let me know. This is all from Anvil.
Opening.
Finally unwrapped.
Underside of the trunk lid, I think I saw someone ask for a shot of it over on pro-touring.
This is the back ridge where it meets the windshield. There is a lip, but nothing to stick the trim on I don't think (not that I was going to anyway).
And the fender braces. These are for a first gen camaro but I was thinking I would use them anyway. Will probably sell them to pay for some new gas springs for my hood hinges.
As soon as I ordered this stuff I started to second guess myself, but this stuff looks bad *** when the sun hits it. Eventually I'll paint everything but the stripes a metallic pearl but I think it will look cool enough that I won't have to hurry.
Last edited by chuckd71; 10-20-2011 at 08:17 PM.
10-24-2011, 03:24 AM
#254
I can imagine there isn't a whole lot of stuff for you guys. You could always get a fiberglass hood and throw some 3m Di-noc on it.
Messed around with the gauges today, mainly with wiring and senders. These senders are huge, and consequently the one for oil pressure was going to hit my headers. I picked up a downward-pointing plate/ cap/ whatever from the classifieds here and I think it will solve that problem.
In what I can only describe as a rare case of good luck it seems that everything will fit without any significant work on my part. The water temp sender will fit in my rad hose where the old one was, and the fuel pressure sender will work as well. Haven't tried the trans temp yet but I didn't feel like getting doused with that smelly **** today.
New on left, old on right. It's part no 12551595, not sure what it came on or if it comes drilled and tapped by default or if the previous owner did it.
Fuel pressure sender is a beast as well, but it swapped straight in where my autometer unit was.
If you pull the factory gauges you're going to have this plug left over that was connected to the PCB. Looks like a lot of crap, but fortunately the wires are numbered so I'm thinking it'll be pretty easy to work with. I need to use this to hook the turn signal/ high beam indicators into the speedo since I'm not sure if ditching the PCB would make it hard to keep them in the dash. In hindsight I'm glad I opted to get the gauge with the indicators built in. Rather than cutting anything I'm going to try just tapping into the wires and connecting them to the gauge.
Here is the plug I'm talking about and what the wires do-
That laminated wire diagram is paying off after all.
Perhaps as a way to speed up the car getting out of the garage my mom has been buying me tools and stuff whenever she goes to lowes. A couple weeks ago she picked up this headlight thing, and I cannot recommend it highly enough. It's pretty much the ideal brightness and it makes working under the car and in the dash a thousand times easier. I wish I would have had this from day one. I think it was $12 or so.
Other than that I'm still looking for a motor and trying to figure out the best way to remove all my old brake lines without making a huge mess. Considering an L92, putting on my 243 heads (since they fit the intake I have set up to run my trans) and deleting the vvt, but I'm not 100% on how that works.
Messed around with the gauges today, mainly with wiring and senders. These senders are huge, and consequently the one for oil pressure was going to hit my headers. I picked up a downward-pointing plate/ cap/ whatever from the classifieds here and I think it will solve that problem.
In what I can only describe as a rare case of good luck it seems that everything will fit without any significant work on my part. The water temp sender will fit in my rad hose where the old one was, and the fuel pressure sender will work as well. Haven't tried the trans temp yet but I didn't feel like getting doused with that smelly **** today.
New on left, old on right. It's part no 12551595, not sure what it came on or if it comes drilled and tapped by default or if the previous owner did it.
Fuel pressure sender is a beast as well, but it swapped straight in where my autometer unit was.
If you pull the factory gauges you're going to have this plug left over that was connected to the PCB. Looks like a lot of crap, but fortunately the wires are numbered so I'm thinking it'll be pretty easy to work with. I need to use this to hook the turn signal/ high beam indicators into the speedo since I'm not sure if ditching the PCB would make it hard to keep them in the dash. In hindsight I'm glad I opted to get the gauge with the indicators built in. Rather than cutting anything I'm going to try just tapping into the wires and connecting them to the gauge.
Here is the plug I'm talking about and what the wires do-
That laminated wire diagram is paying off after all.
Perhaps as a way to speed up the car getting out of the garage my mom has been buying me tools and stuff whenever she goes to lowes. A couple weeks ago she picked up this headlight thing, and I cannot recommend it highly enough. It's pretty much the ideal brightness and it makes working under the car and in the dash a thousand times easier. I wish I would have had this from day one. I think it was $12 or so.
Other than that I'm still looking for a motor and trying to figure out the best way to remove all my old brake lines without making a huge mess. Considering an L92, putting on my 243 heads (since they fit the intake I have set up to run my trans) and deleting the vvt, but I'm not 100% on how that works.
Last edited by chuckd71; 10-24-2011 at 04:12 AM.
11-06-2011, 06:55 PM
#255
It was once again super nice outside so I took this opportunity to pull and mostly disassemble the motor. Going to try and run it by the machine shop tomorrow to see what they say. I've seen more of this than I'd like to at this point.
By the time I had pulled the motor and thrown it into the back of my truck it had started to get dark, so rather than mess with anything too complicated I decided to put the new trunk lid on. It fits pretty well for the most part but took a little work with the file to get the lock in place. Terrible lighting for taking pictures but you get the idea.
Fit is good around the top and bottom, the sides kind of bow a little but I'm going to try and address that later. For now while it sits in the garage I'll just leave it open.
I put the rods in their least-tight positions, and while it isn't as tense as it was before it's still probably too much for the trunk lid from a long-term perspective. Maybe I can heat them up something, I don't know. I do know fighting with these things is a pain in the ***.
Hoping to start on the brakes tomorrow. Still looking for a motor in case this one is junk, have been considering an ls2 but people act like they are made of gold and spit diamonds out the tail pipe. L92 long blocks pop up here and there for $2200ish so that seems like the best option at this point, unless a decently built lq9 or 408 pops up. Edit- Just dropped the block off at the shop. If it checks out it'll be a 383 next time I see it. Since my current TR224 might be a bit small I guess I need to start looking for a cam. An MS3 or 4 looks like an decent choice. I'd go custom but the ms3s pop up all the time and I can use the extra $$ to get the dent in the car fixed.
By the time I had pulled the motor and thrown it into the back of my truck it had started to get dark, so rather than mess with anything too complicated I decided to put the new trunk lid on. It fits pretty well for the most part but took a little work with the file to get the lock in place. Terrible lighting for taking pictures but you get the idea.
Fit is good around the top and bottom, the sides kind of bow a little but I'm going to try and address that later. For now while it sits in the garage I'll just leave it open.
I put the rods in their least-tight positions, and while it isn't as tense as it was before it's still probably too much for the trunk lid from a long-term perspective. Maybe I can heat them up something, I don't know. I do know fighting with these things is a pain in the ***.
Hoping to start on the brakes tomorrow. Still looking for a motor in case this one is junk, have been considering an ls2 but people act like they are made of gold and spit diamonds out the tail pipe. L92 long blocks pop up here and there for $2200ish so that seems like the best option at this point, unless a decently built lq9 or 408 pops up. Edit- Just dropped the block off at the shop. If it checks out it'll be a 383 next time I see it. Since my current TR224 might be a bit small I guess I need to start looking for a cam. An MS3 or 4 looks like an decent choice. I'd go custom but the ms3s pop up all the time and I can use the extra $$ to get the dent in the car fixed.
Last edited by chuckd71; 11-07-2011 at 11:03 AM.
11-12-2011, 03:02 PM
#256
Not sure how to change the thread title ( I did the same edit - go advanced I did before but I'm not sure it worked this time) but it should now say " ̶L̶Q̶9̶ ̶L̶S̶1̶ L92 / 200-4r in 71 Chevelle convertible." The 383 price kept climbing so I said screw it and bought an L92 long block set up to run in a Gen III environment. While I'll probably get a new cam and an LS3 intake it should more or less be good to go. This means all my ls1-specific stuff is for sale. I'll post an ad here soon but for now it's all on craigslist. Any idea what an LS1 shortblock that needs machine work would go for?
11-18-2011, 02:19 PM
#257
Got a message a little while ago saying the motor should be here in 3 business days, I think I'll take off work and try to go ahead and drop it in. The L92 intake didn't look like it was going to play well with my tvmadeez stuff for the transmission so I bought an ls3 intake. For now I need to keep my ls1 throttle body so I might grab one of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=220894278310
Kind of pricey but it's cheaper than a new TB.
The intake with rails, injectors, map sensor, bolts, a set of new gaskets and an engine cover was $350 shipped from some shop that puts magnachargers on new camaros, and I don't think this stuff has more than a trip down the street and back on it. Looks completely new and no grease anywhere. They had a half-dozen or so more if anyone needs one. The plan is to paint the silver parts white epoxy and see how it looks.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/21527394@N06/6359414633/http://www.flickr.com/photos/21527394@N06/6359414633/[/ame]
Next update should have actual engine-in-car pics (I hope).
Kind of pricey but it's cheaper than a new TB.
The intake with rails, injectors, map sensor, bolts, a set of new gaskets and an engine cover was $350 shipped from some shop that puts magnachargers on new camaros, and I don't think this stuff has more than a trip down the street and back on it. Looks completely new and no grease anywhere. They had a half-dozen or so more if anyone needs one. The plan is to paint the silver parts white epoxy and see how it looks.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/21527394@N06/6359414633/http://www.flickr.com/photos/21527394@N06/6359414633/[/ame]
Next update should have actual engine-in-car pics (I hope).
11-18-2011, 11:59 PM
#259
I haven't weighed either of them but some guy on pro-touring said it was 30lbs or so lighter. It's still an awkward piece to have sitting around the garage because of it's size, but it's much much easier to get off and on.
If anyone needs any ls3 - sized intake bolts let me know, I have a giant box of 6mx1x120 bolts coming in that I ordered prematurely. I know people use them as an alternative to gm's $7 a piece bolts since they are about 1/10 the price.
If anyone needs any ls3 - sized intake bolts let me know, I have a giant box of 6mx1x120 bolts coming in that I ordered prematurely. I know people use them as an alternative to gm's $7 a piece bolts since they are about 1/10 the price.
11-23-2011, 10:14 PM
#260
New motor came today. Haven't swapped the oil pan yet but it looks good so far. Has arp head bolts and I think is supposed to have ARP rod bolts as well but maybe I'm thinking of something else. Anyway, here is what was recently done to it - line bore and deck checked, new cam bearings, cylinders finish honed to pistons, ls7 cam, new pistons, gaskets and lifters. The best part is that it has the reluctor swapped to a 24X, the knock sensors on the sides and the older LS2 front cover with the cam sensor already put on the front. I think I need to swap in a car oil pump but otherwise it should be ready to go. This page has lots of good info - http://ls2.com/forums/showthread.php?t=626014
And here are the conversion harnesses. You could probably make your own but I don't happen to have any heat-resistant wiring sitting around. Other places like lingenfelter sell these exact pieces but ordering direct seems to make the most sense - http://www.racetronix.biz/items.asp?...atus=1&Tp=&Bc=
Did run into one complication however. I bought ls1 to ev6 injector adapters but it turns out my truck motor harness has the multec injector plugs, so I had to order the right adapters from racetronix. They also sell the other ls1 to ls2/3 adapters so that's no big deal.
Hoping to at least get this physically into the car tomorrow and then tie up the loose ends with the gauges over the weekend. Best-case scenario the car moves under it's own power sometime next week, assuming I can get it trailered to the tuner.
Now that's it getting cold, dark and a bad time of year to work with the garage door open I think that rather than mess with the brakes and suspension myself I'll let a shop just north of town do it. Brakes are something I know nothing about and are the last things I want done incorrectly.
And here are the conversion harnesses. You could probably make your own but I don't happen to have any heat-resistant wiring sitting around. Other places like lingenfelter sell these exact pieces but ordering direct seems to make the most sense - http://www.racetronix.biz/items.asp?...atus=1&Tp=&Bc=
Did run into one complication however. I bought ls1 to ev6 injector adapters but it turns out my truck motor harness has the multec injector plugs, so I had to order the right adapters from racetronix. They also sell the other ls1 to ls2/3 adapters so that's no big deal.
Hoping to at least get this physically into the car tomorrow and then tie up the loose ends with the gauges over the weekend. Best-case scenario the car moves under it's own power sometime next week, assuming I can get it trailered to the tuner.
Now that's it getting cold, dark and a bad time of year to work with the garage door open I think that rather than mess with the brakes and suspension myself I'll let a shop just north of town do it. Brakes are something I know nothing about and are the last things I want done incorrectly.
Last edited by chuckd71; 11-24-2011 at 12:45 AM.