72 Olds 442 build
#103
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Rear suspension adjustable control arms mounted. Motor 2.5 degrees down, driveshaft 3.5 degrees down, differential 2.5 degrees up. It might have been overkill to get the angles within a half degree, but I didn't want to be chasing vibrations later on.
![](http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b135/rdoact/DSCN0336.jpg)
Front suspension, 72 Cultass 350 w/o air springs. About 1.5" shorter but the rate is supposed to be different too. Cutting the old ones would have lowered the car but given a very stiff ride.
![](http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b135/rdoact/DSCN0338.jpg)
Fuels system. Intank Ractronix pump, 02 corvette regulator/filter. I vented the tank to the Olds vapor tank, but without a charcoal canister, that's just vented to the air through a filter. If I have problems with fumes, I'll get a canister.
![](http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b135/rdoact/DSCN0336.jpg)
Front suspension, 72 Cultass 350 w/o air springs. About 1.5" shorter but the rate is supposed to be different too. Cutting the old ones would have lowered the car but given a very stiff ride.
![](http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b135/rdoact/DSCN0338.jpg)
Fuels system. Intank Ractronix pump, 02 corvette regulator/filter. I vented the tank to the Olds vapor tank, but without a charcoal canister, that's just vented to the air through a filter. If I have problems with fumes, I'll get a canister.
![](http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b135/rdoact/DSCN0335.jpg)
#104
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It's alive. Started on the first try. I just dont have downpipes with O2 sensors, so it threw a lean code when it warmed up. Off to the muffler shop.
The other issue is that my brand new brake master cylinder is leaking out the back.
Also looks like this aftermarket tach needs the pull up circuit.
Off to get a new master cyliner and to Radio Shack for a resistor............
Edit: The pull-up resistor worked!
The other issue is that my brand new brake master cylinder is leaking out the back.
Also looks like this aftermarket tach needs the pull up circuit.
Off to get a new master cyliner and to Radio Shack for a resistor............
Edit: The pull-up resistor worked!
Last edited by garys 68; 03-20-2011 at 03:20 PM.
#105
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It's alive. Started on the first try. I just dont have downpipes with O2 sensors, so it threw a lean code when it warmed up. Off to the muffler shop.
The other issue is that my brand new brake master cylinder is leaking out the back.
Also looks like this aftermarket tach needs the pull up circuit.
Off to get a new master cyliner and to Radio Shack for a resistor............
Edit: The pull-up resistor worked!
The other issue is that my brand new brake master cylinder is leaking out the back.
Also looks like this aftermarket tach needs the pull up circuit.
Off to get a new master cyliner and to Radio Shack for a resistor............
Edit: The pull-up resistor worked!
#106
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Everything's hooked up and running, just waiting on my historic plates.
So I've just been driving around the neighborhood. Problem is, the Olds steering box is slooooow. Feels like driving an old school bus.
So I picked up a 95 jeep grand cherokee steering box for $50. I still need the Dorman 31011 rag joint since the spline diameters are different. And I'm going to try a mid 80 G body power steering line.
So I've just been driving around the neighborhood. Problem is, the Olds steering box is slooooow. Feels like driving an old school bus.
So I picked up a 95 jeep grand cherokee steering box for $50. I still need the Dorman 31011 rag joint since the spline diameters are different. And I'm going to try a mid 80 G body power steering line.
![](http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b135/rdoact/DSCN0352.jpg)
#108
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I was checking the chevelle and Olds boards. The jeep box seemed to be the most common. It is a bolt on, has similar sweep angle (40 vs 41 degrees), and has a faster ratio. The only mod is using a mid 80s truck rag joint.
The only experimental part was the truck accessorie pump hose fit. With the original Olds box and modified LS PS hose (long one for hydroboost) the hose stuck up in a big loop.
The only experimental part was the truck accessorie pump hose fit. With the original Olds box and modified LS PS hose (long one for hydroboost) the hose stuck up in a big loop.
#109
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Since you're posting I'm assuming the tornado missed you (hopefully). I thought about you and another guy (can't remember his name on here) with a blue Camaro when I read about it.
#110
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
All clear here, so to speak. The hose is only $12, so I'll try that first.
I can always get AN adapters, hose ends and hose for about $50 too.
I can always get AN adapters, hose ends and hose for about $50 too.
I have a guy locally that cuts hoses to length (or makes them) for me when I run into those situations.
Since you're posting I'm assuming the tornado missed you (hopefully). I thought about you and another guy (can't remember his name on here) with a blue Camaro when I read about it.
Since you're posting I'm assuming the tornado missed you (hopefully). I thought about you and another guy (can't remember his name on here) with a blue Camaro when I read about it.
#111
#112
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Sorry, no pics during construction.
It's just 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood glued together. Cut out the center for the speakers, round the outter edge with a router and sander. Paint it flat black and staple grill cloth over it. The chrome trim piece is the self adhesive peel and stick stuff ftom any auto parts store.
I used threaded insert in the wood to screw it down from the bottom.
It's just 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood glued together. Cut out the center for the speakers, round the outter edge with a router and sander. Paint it flat black and staple grill cloth over it. The chrome trim piece is the self adhesive peel and stick stuff ftom any auto parts store.
I used threaded insert in the wood to screw it down from the bottom.
#115
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Updates, been putting some miles on the car. Nice ride, I'm drfinitely glad I put the small block springs in. My 68 vette is lowered with sidepipes and my other DD is a truck. With a soft suspension and all the soundproofing, this thing is as comfy as a Caddy.
Problems;
I put the PS return hose to the top port (hydroboost), and that resulted in airation of the fluid when cold. Easy fix, swapped to bottom port.
Speedo is reading low, just ordered a ratio adapter. Probably should have gone with an electric speedo. The mechanical speedo, cable, and adapter ended up costing more....doh.
I found a couple drops of trans fluid, but cant tell where it's coming from.
Also a few srops of rear end lube by the right rear tire. Good news, it's actually a chevelle axle, much easier to change seals/bearings than the Olds axle which has the bearing pressed on the shaft.
Off to the parts store....................
Problems;
I put the PS return hose to the top port (hydroboost), and that resulted in airation of the fluid when cold. Easy fix, swapped to bottom port.
Speedo is reading low, just ordered a ratio adapter. Probably should have gone with an electric speedo. The mechanical speedo, cable, and adapter ended up costing more....doh.
I found a couple drops of trans fluid, but cant tell where it's coming from.
Also a few srops of rear end lube by the right rear tire. Good news, it's actually a chevelle axle, much easier to change seals/bearings than the Olds axle which has the bearing pressed on the shaft.
Off to the parts store....................
#116
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Update, car is pretty much done. All the minor glitches worked out except the trans is still leaking a few drops and the cruise control is still an issue. But I've been driving it around on these 95 degree days, AC blasting, engine staying cool. I've put on 250 miles, city and hiway, and only burned 10-11 gallons, so 22-24mpg, not bad for a non OD trans.
![](http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b135/rdoact/DSCN0379.jpg)
![](http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b135/rdoact/DSCN0379.jpg)
![](http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b135/rdoact/DSCN0380.jpg)
#120
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Update, I've been driving the 442 as a DD all summer. That includes a lot of 100 degree days. AC blows cold and the car never got over 200 degrees.
My only complaints are:
1) the muncie 2.6 1st gear with a 2.73 rear is a little tall
2) the trans has a leak from the front countershaft case hole
3) the Dakota Digital VSS does not send enough pulses per mile for the DBW cruise control to operate smoothly
So I'm goimg to try to fix all 3 at once.
I picked up a Super T10 with a 3.42 1st gear for $100. The 3.42s were only made 81-83 for camaros and firebirds. They did produce an iron case aftermarket version with an iron case for drag racing, and you can still get a 3.42 gearbox from Richmond.
Anyway the 82 version I got has an odd tail for a center mounted shifter and torque arm. But the 2 lower Hurst shifter holes are there and the upper bosses are simply moved to the passenger side. I'll just drill the top one thru and add a spacer for my shifter. The 82-83s also had a 27 spline TH350 output shaft, which is as good thing since I dont need to buy a yoke.
The case and gears look good, so I ordered a rebuild kit.
I also chose a 10 spline 11" clutch that shared the same pressure plate with a 26 spline disk, so all I need to buy is a $30 disk.
I'm also going to look at adding a reluctor in the tail housing for a higher count VSS to get cruise control working better.
![](http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b135/rdoact/DSCN0391.jpg)
My only complaints are:
1) the muncie 2.6 1st gear with a 2.73 rear is a little tall
2) the trans has a leak from the front countershaft case hole
3) the Dakota Digital VSS does not send enough pulses per mile for the DBW cruise control to operate smoothly
So I'm goimg to try to fix all 3 at once.
I picked up a Super T10 with a 3.42 1st gear for $100. The 3.42s were only made 81-83 for camaros and firebirds. They did produce an iron case aftermarket version with an iron case for drag racing, and you can still get a 3.42 gearbox from Richmond.
Anyway the 82 version I got has an odd tail for a center mounted shifter and torque arm. But the 2 lower Hurst shifter holes are there and the upper bosses are simply moved to the passenger side. I'll just drill the top one thru and add a spacer for my shifter. The 82-83s also had a 27 spline TH350 output shaft, which is as good thing since I dont need to buy a yoke.
The case and gears look good, so I ordered a rebuild kit.
I also chose a 10 spline 11" clutch that shared the same pressure plate with a 26 spline disk, so all I need to buy is a $30 disk.
I'm also going to look at adding a reluctor in the tail housing for a higher count VSS to get cruise control working better.
![](http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b135/rdoact/DSCN0391.jpg)
![](http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b135/rdoact/DSCN0402.jpg)