1969 GTO Judge Clone LQ4 turbo 4L60e
12-06-2010, 10:07 PM
#42
we haven't worked on the car in a few days but we are going to tomorrow night. the down pipe and waste gate have all been welded up, just need to pick it up tomorrow.
I should have move pics posted up tomorrow night.
I'm getting excited now because its all starting to LOOK like we are getting things done.
I should have move pics posted up tomorrow night.
I'm getting excited now because its all starting to LOOK like we are getting things done.
12-11-2010, 05:29 PM
#43
worked on it a little today.
got the IC pipe mocked up from the IC to the TB and figured out where the air temp sensor bung and the blow over valve need to go
****EDIT***
the exhaust changed.... you can see it on page 6 post number 106*****
I'm going to put a 4" electric cut out on the car and when its closed I'm going to have the exhaust run through the dual mufflers out the back of the car. So today we made the 4" to two 2.5" pipes by ovaling the 4" on one end. Then we took a few inches out of the middle of a 2.5" U bend. Then welded the two U bend pieces back together and marked where we needed to cut the "new" U bend so that we could weld it to the oval 4"
needs blown out but you get the point
got the IC pipe mocked up from the IC to the TB and figured out where the air temp sensor bung and the blow over valve need to go
****EDIT***
the exhaust changed.... you can see it on page 6 post number 106*****
I'm going to put a 4" electric cut out on the car and when its closed I'm going to have the exhaust run through the dual mufflers out the back of the car. So today we made the 4" to two 2.5" pipes by ovaling the 4" on one end. Then we took a few inches out of the middle of a 2.5" U bend. Then welded the two U bend pieces back together and marked where we needed to cut the "new" U bend so that we could weld it to the oval 4"
needs blown out but you get the point
Last edited by 2165 Turbo Rail; 02-05-2011 at 09:40 AM.
12-11-2010, 05:36 PM
#44
I am using an F body manifold on the drivers side and all of the house side is going to be ceramic coated so I cleaned it up a little bit by cutting off the heat shield mount points. we also welded up the O@ hole and the heat riser hole
*all of the hot side is at the ceramic coaters right now. I decided to go with a Pewter coating..
*all of the hot side is at the ceramic coaters right now. I decided to go with a Pewter coating..
Last edited by 2165 Turbo Rail; 12-11-2010 at 11:34 PM.
12-12-2010, 04:27 PM
#50
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Awesome car man! I am building a 71 Chevelle with an LS3 crate motor. Was curious why you had to modify the floor pans? Was wondering if a 4L60E would fit without having to cut the floor pans. My car is all original sheetmetal and has nice rust free pans and I'd rather not cut them. Where did/will you get your 4L60E built? Thanks
12-12-2010, 04:41 PM
#52
Awesome car man! I am building a 71 Chevelle with an LS3 crate motor. Was curious why you had to modify the floor pans? Was wondering if a 4L60E would fit without having to cut the floor pans. My car is all original sheetmetal and has nice rust free pans and I'd rather not cut them. Where did/will you get your 4L60E built? Thanks
all of the guys that I run around with use basically stock 4L60e with a corvette servo and have held up well. One of the guys has one that is bone stock with the servo and its fine so far. Then another guy has one with just the servo and a shift kit.
I decided to save the cash right now and go ahead with just the servo and transgo shift kit. when it goes kaboom I will go ahead and get it built.
same with my rear end... right now its a stock 7.5 with 2.73 gears.. I found a 8.2 with 3.32 and posi for $300 so I bought it to get me going and when if blows I'll upgrade.. but I knew that the 7.5 with 2.73 was going to either blow or hurt the tranny because of the high gears
***EDIT*** the 8.2 broke the first weekend.. we took the car to the track and the broke in the parking lot on the way to the staging lanes
SOOOO i ordered a built 9" don't have to worry about that anymore 
Last edited by 2165 Turbo Rail; 02-05-2011 at 09:45 AM.
12-12-2010, 11:26 PM
#53
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I used the tall solid motor mounts to make sure I had plenty of clearance between the oil pan and cross member. I probably could have gotten away with not cutting the floor but I didn't want to have an annoying tap tap tap on the floors
all of the guys that I run around with use basically stock 4L60e with a corvette servo and have held up well. One of the guys has one that is bone stock with the servo and its fine so far. Then another guy has one with just the servo and a shift kit.
I decided to save the cash right now and go ahead with just the servo and transgo shift kit. when it goes kaboom I will go ahead and get it built.
same with my rear end... right now its a stock 7.5 with 2.73 gears.. I found a 8.2 with 3.32 and posi for $300 so I bought it to get me going and when if blows I'll upgrade.. but I knew that the 7.5 with 2.73 was going to either blow or hurt the tranny because of the high gears
all of the guys that I run around with use basically stock 4L60e with a corvette servo and have held up well. One of the guys has one that is bone stock with the servo and its fine so far. Then another guy has one with just the servo and a shift kit.
I decided to save the cash right now and go ahead with just the servo and transgo shift kit. when it goes kaboom I will go ahead and get it built.
same with my rear end... right now its a stock 7.5 with 2.73 gears.. I found a 8.2 with 3.32 and posi for $300 so I bought it to get me going and when if blows I'll upgrade.. but I knew that the 7.5 with 2.73 was going to either blow or hurt the tranny because of the high gears
real well. And I was hoping that would give me some room to drop the engine a bit lower. I guess I will find out eventually :-)
Just an FYI I have also been doing some research on EFI fueling and ran across
a post on Lateral G forums about using a CTSV fuel pump module:
http://www.rmsautoparts.com/proddetail.php?prod=M10235
Seems to be shallow enough for our gas tanks and has a built in surge cup.
Thanks for the quick response.
12-13-2010, 10:40 AM
#54
***EDIT*** the spacer was perfect but the bolt was too long, i'm not sure if they just sent me the wrong bolt or what but either way it didn't work
I just saw this on a thread by -TheBandit- and decided I'd order the same for my conversion
From Misumi USA (www.misumiusa.com), the spacer is PN KNCLM10-30-20 and cost $5.70. It is nickel plated steel, 10mm ID, 30MM OD and 20MM length. The bolt is PN CB10-160 and cost $2.40. It is M10x160mm length. Total $8.10.
I just saw this on a thread by -TheBandit- and decided I'd order the same for my conversion
From Misumi USA (www.misumiusa.com), the spacer is PN KNCLM10-30-20 and cost $5.70. It is nickel plated steel, 10mm ID, 30MM OD and 20MM length. The bolt is PN CB10-160 and cost $2.40. It is M10x160mm length. Total $8.10.
Last edited by 2165 Turbo Rail; 02-05-2011 at 09:46 AM.
12-13-2010, 11:41 AM
#58
online.. you have to go to the left side of the page and register as an individual to be able to order.
you can get quotes online and well as place your order (not the most friendly ordering site but you'll be able to manage I'm sure.)
you can get quotes online and well as place your order (not the most friendly ordering site but you'll be able to manage I'm sure.)
12-13-2010, 03:37 PM
#60
Glad to see the spacer info helping others. I've been using misumi for a long time and really like their configurable spacers, shafts, plates, etc. It helps to have a printed catalog. If you get a catalog, get both inch and metric because they have a lot more metric stuff than inch.
I have always hated their site for ordering, but they have a great CAD generator. It's definitely a company catoring to engineers.
I have always hated their site for ordering, but they have a great CAD generator. It's definitely a company catoring to engineers.