1971 Chevelle -> LS1 + T56
02-22-2013, 02:56 PM
#121
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Driving! Attached is a picture of the car at my work! It feels very good to get to drive it now.
Honestly, the best part so far has been picking my son (3.5 yrs old) up from daycare the first time.
When I go to pick him up, the kids are usually outside on the playground...which is right next to the parking lot.
As I drove in, the whole playground stopped, and about half of the kids came running over to the fence to see the car. My son was standing there jumping up and down very excited that he was going to get to ride in it. That was a very cool feeling. Not only did I feel like a Rockstar, but my son was also when everyone else realized he was getting to ride in it.
The whole way home, my son kept telling me over and over, "Daddy, make it go fast!"
That itself has made all of this work worth it!
Honestly, the best part so far has been picking my son (3.5 yrs old) up from daycare the first time.
When I go to pick him up, the kids are usually outside on the playground...which is right next to the parking lot.
As I drove in, the whole playground stopped, and about half of the kids came running over to the fence to see the car. My son was standing there jumping up and down very excited that he was going to get to ride in it. That was a very cool feeling. Not only did I feel like a Rockstar, but my son was also when everyone else realized he was getting to ride in it.
The whole way home, my son kept telling me over and over, "Daddy, make it go fast!"
That itself has made all of this work worth it!
02-22-2013, 04:17 PM
#122
"Seeing how the Crank -> Idler -> PS are so close together, it makes sense it is chirping since the belt is needing to move 2mm in such a short distance, across the idler. The chirp is coming from sideways movement on the idler.
Using this info, I pushed the PS pulley on past-flush with the end of the PS shaft (see pic #2) until the above measurements were the same on the crank and PS."
What I did and hope it works is I measured the original pulley from the power steering reservoir to the first rib on the pulley. Then when I put on the smaller replacement pulley I put it on to the same measurement.
Using this info, I pushed the PS pulley on past-flush with the end of the PS shaft (see pic #2) until the above measurements were the same on the crank and PS."
What I did and hope it works is I measured the original pulley from the power steering reservoir to the first rib on the pulley. Then when I put on the smaller replacement pulley I put it on to the same measurement.
02-22-2013, 04:17 PM
#123
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Awesome build man. I am doing something similar, but military service with the Air Force has more or less put the job on hold while I go off to hot and sandy places. I should be driving it in time for the Car Craft Street Machine Nationals this summer. Thread in sig block below...
TJR
TJR
03-25-2013, 05:22 PM
#124
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congratulations man! thats awesome. my ecm is in the mail on its way back and i should have it tomorrow. about 2 more hours messing with my brakes and a small adjustment in my clutch and i should be able to move mine out of the garage on its own power as well! so stoked!
how did you make out with the radiator hoses? i posted those part numbers up on my build for you. not sure if you saw that.
now i have a question. lol how did those pcv hoses work for you? i swapped to an ls1 intake and the fitting you have capped off by the throttle body broke off on mine so i been wondering what to do with it. seeing you just capped yours off shed light that i could just block mine off and not worry about it? any problems you have run into so far?
how did you make out with the radiator hoses? i posted those part numbers up on my build for you. not sure if you saw that.
now i have a question. lol how did those pcv hoses work for you? i swapped to an ls1 intake and the fitting you have capped off by the throttle body broke off on mine so i been wondering what to do with it. seeing you just capped yours off shed light that i could just block mine off and not worry about it? any problems you have run into so far?
03-26-2013, 07:13 PM
#125
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Chevyman,
So far, the pcv system has worked great. I capped off all connections from the TB and intake. The hoses are only connected to the valve covers. No problem at all!
Good luck with your build!
So far, the pcv system has worked great. I capped off all connections from the TB and intake. The hoses are only connected to the valve covers. No problem at all!
Good luck with your build!
07-06-2013, 01:38 PM
#127
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Honestly, not much to report. I have probably put around 500 miles on it since the last post. Mostly back and forth to work stuff.
I have been a little frustrated with the gas mileage. Most tanks have averaged in the 12-13mpg range. I was really expecting closer to 20, especially since a lot of that is interstate.
Things that still need done:
- install carpet
- get AC system
- fix fan programming so it is not always on
- massage tunnel slightly. Driveshaft hits the floor support when the suspension is compressed.
Otherwise there are a few small maintenance items that need handled.
Let me know if there are any questions or suggestions!
I have been a little frustrated with the gas mileage. Most tanks have averaged in the 12-13mpg range. I was really expecting closer to 20, especially since a lot of that is interstate.
Things that still need done:
- install carpet
- get AC system
- fix fan programming so it is not always on
- massage tunnel slightly. Driveshaft hits the floor support when the suspension is compressed.
Otherwise there are a few small maintenance items that need handled.
Let me know if there are any questions or suggestions!
07-17-2013, 10:06 PM
#128
Huh, only 12-13 mpg? I have heard of guys getting 23-25 on hwy. Also, what is your plan for the AC system? I am working on my LS swap now but I will need AC installed before next summer (Per wife's request)
11-20-2014, 09:28 PM
#129
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I just read your thread from start to finish while working (at GM Arlington Assembly 
) and must give you credit for a well written and we'll outlined write up. I made some very good notes from your threaf. I did notice at first you mentioned using upper hose #23184, I guess you didn't use that one after all? Secondly, would you do the Copart experience again or buy a running donor from an individual from Craigslist or autotrader? I live 20 mile between 2 different Copart yards but man, those fees!
My favorite part was you mentioning picking up the little one from day care, that was awesome!
) and must give you credit for a well written and we'll outlined write up. I made some very good notes from your threaf. I did notice at first you mentioned using upper hose #23184, I guess you didn't use that one after all? Secondly, would you do the Copart experience again or buy a running donor from an individual from Craigslist or autotrader? I live 20 mile between 2 different Copart yards but man, those fees!My favorite part was you mentioning picking up the little one from day care, that was awesome!
11-21-2014, 07:42 AM
#130
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Frawgdawg,
Thanks for the comments. I tried to be thorough so others could learn from my trials and tribulations. Glad it is being of use!
Upper radiator hose: No, I went with a different setup. I could not find a single hose that would get the job done. My radiator outlet is 1.5" and the water pump was 1.25". Also, I wanted a location to plumb in the steam vent line. I ended up with 2 hoses and an adapter.
From the radiator:
- hose 71713
- Be Cool hose adaptor 72102 (+hose barb for the steam vent line)
- random small 1.25" hose with a 90 degree bend
For your question on donor source: I would continue to use whatever the cheapest method was to get the engine/trans setup I wanted. If my memory serves me, I was able to get the wrecked car delivered to my house for a total of around $3500-$4000 (it probably says somewhere here in the thread). Any running, non-salvage vehicle is worth considerably more than that. If you live that close to some Copart locations, then all the better for you, as you could save some worry and $$$ by inspecting the car yourself. However, don't limit yourself to what is close-by. The best deal I found was in CA (long way from TN!), and it was still cheaper to purchase it there and get it shipped all the way across the country.
Good luck with your build!
Troy
Thanks for the comments. I tried to be thorough so others could learn from my trials and tribulations. Glad it is being of use!
Upper radiator hose: No, I went with a different setup. I could not find a single hose that would get the job done. My radiator outlet is 1.5" and the water pump was 1.25". Also, I wanted a location to plumb in the steam vent line. I ended up with 2 hoses and an adapter.
From the radiator:
- hose 71713
- Be Cool hose adaptor 72102 (+hose barb for the steam vent line)
- random small 1.25" hose with a 90 degree bend
For your question on donor source: I would continue to use whatever the cheapest method was to get the engine/trans setup I wanted. If my memory serves me, I was able to get the wrecked car delivered to my house for a total of around $3500-$4000 (it probably says somewhere here in the thread). Any running, non-salvage vehicle is worth considerably more than that. If you live that close to some Copart locations, then all the better for you, as you could save some worry and $$$ by inspecting the car yourself. However, don't limit yourself to what is close-by. The best deal I found was in CA (long way from TN!), and it was still cheaper to purchase it there and get it shipped all the way across the country.
Good luck with your build!
Troy
