rlgood

Ive read alot of the builds on here and dont recall this drill mod? I must have missed it. Can you tell me what you did and what it accomplishes? Thanks Rod

71Fakes

iTrader: (2)

Rod,
If you do a search on LS1tech, you will find a better explanation than I can give you.
The short answer is that there is a small restriction in the clutch hydraulic line. GM supposedly pit it there to help control pedal feel....or something like that. Anyway, it is aparently common for this restriction to cause problems during quick shifting, and this is the free way to eliminate it.

Rucumn

Hey Troy, thanks for sharing the updates on the trans tunnel. You suggested I consider the method that you used on the trans tunnel, so I went for it. I made the center cut so far and I jacked the trans up to the proper angle. I am in the process of checking clearance all around. Looks like I don't need a whole lot so far.

Get that shed done and get back on the car!!!!

LS2GS

Nice Build! I too will be mocking up my engine and trans with in a week or so, and I am looking to do the least amount of cutting of the tunnel as well. I am a bit confused on how you had just the rear of the tunnel cut out and the drive shaft would not slip in? Then with the t cut everything seemed to work??? It seems that t cut would only bring the trans up further which would create more driveshaft issues. Any further info or advice would be great!

iroczracer07

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the oil pan comparison pics. I was debating about the musclecar pan, but after seeing the f-body pan next to it the f-body pan is definitely the way for me to go

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

Yeah, I had to replace everything under the car anyway so just decided to use stuff from a 70 to see if it helped. The car is finally in rolls-when-pushed mode but I haven't been able to do a full lock to lock test to see if the clearance is improved any. If not I think I'll put a plate under my motor mounts to lift it up just a tad, drive line angels permitting of course.

The fuel rails look way better silver, that was a good move. How close are you to being finished? I'd be interested in checking this thing out some time.

71Fakes

iTrader: (2)

OK - so I have officially been back on this project for a month or so. The first order of business was to get the floor finished.

The main portion of the tunnel had been patched for the trans, but now I needed to make something to fit tight around the shifter area. I really wanted to keep my floor as close to the factory shape as possible to help carpet fitmet later on.

In the first pic, you can see the size of the hole that needed patching. In the second pic the box is starting to take shape. In the last photo, you can see the finished product. Overall, I am fairly happy as I feel the trans tunnel was modified from its original shape in the least amount necessary for my setup.

As I get closer to wrapping up this project, I will need to find some form of shift boot that will fit here. I based the flat area around the shifter off of a Spectre shift boot kit, but the rubber boot they provide is not tall enough to cover the shifter in this configuration. I might end up using the original leather boot from the F-body donor car, but it has a rip that will need to be sewed up first.

Troy

71Fakes

iTrader: (2)

If you have been reading this, you know that there has been a lot of work around re-working the headers so they would fit. Since the welder and grinder were out, it seemed like a good time to get this done.

From all the work I had done before, the headers fit fairly well now. Still, as many are familiar with, the F-body headers point outward - not towards the old exhaust points. I tried to get some pictures of this, but nothing came out that really showed it.

Anyway, I have seen many different approaches to solving this. Everything from attempting to bend the collectors to cutting and welding the collectors back on at a different angle. For my build, I decided to cut my exhaust back closer to the H-pipe and put a simple angle on the end of the collectors (yes, H-pipe, this Flowmaster exhaust was originally put on back in 2000 when the H-pipe was the leading technology!).

Some cheap flanges from Summit Racing, a cut at the measured angle to get the pipes to meet up, and we were started (first pic).
I then made an intermediate pipe with a slight 45 degree angle on the end to mate the headers to the rest of the exhaust (second pic). This came out really well, was simple, and should work great.

I love the "cast iron" color also. Looks clean and somewhat factory.

Note to self: I still need to get gaskets for those flanges.

71Fakes

iTrader: (2)

With the normal Chevelle interference problems with low-mounted accessories, I decided to go with the KWiK performance alternator and power steering bracket setup. I decided to go with them due to the price and layout.

The kit came with everything needed, plus a few extra bolts just in case. The design of the brackets is very similar to that of the Procharger brackets - simple cut plates spaced with stand-offs. Seems logical that this would really be the cheapest way to make brackets, but it looks good and clean also. (see first two pics)

The last picture shows the brackets on the car. I didn't get any farther than this point because I need to clarify some things on the power steering pump, lines, and getting a new alternator first.

So far I am happy with this kit. I know many people have had alignment issues, but I am optimistic that they can be solved with the addition of some washers in key locations. Only time will tell as of now.

Troy

71Fakes

iTrader: (2)

I got the FEAD finished. This KWiK system really looks nice.

The PS pump needed a return fitting. There is a GM part out there that would work, but it was roughly the same cost as the item from KWiK, so I ended up going with that. Simple fitting.

In order to make life simpler, I decided to go with a different PS pulley. Attached are two pictures, 1 showing the new pulley and the part number on the box, plus a comparison of the original F-body pulley and the new one. The new pulley not only has the "windows" to access the PS pump mounting bolts, but is also slightly smaller diameter to help with the PS gear box clearance.

71Fakes

iTrader: (2)

While doing this work, I decided I wanted to swap my steering gear box for the Jeep Grand Cherokee unit also. I picked up a used unit from a 1998 off of eBay for a pretty good price.

Attached you can see pictures comparing it to the factory PS unit and comparing the pitman arms. The pitman arms sure were difficult to get off, but I eventually got there with a borrowed puller from O'Reilly's.

In order to do the swap, you also need a different rag joint. I got the Lares 200 - cheaper than other options. Also pictured.

71Fakes

iTrader: (2)

I had picked this unit up off of eBay and it looks really nice. I think I already posted a picture and information earlier in this thread.

Now, I have finally gotten around to bolting on my hydroboost unit. As it turns out, the hole in this plate is ever so slightly too low. I tried to just file it out slightly, but that was not going to work. Since this unit was plenty strong, I decided to just go the simple route and cut the top out.

After this, everything bolted up fine.

1964SS

iTrader: (1)

Great looking build! Your going to love it when it's done. I just did the Jeep GC steering box in my chevelle and it makes it an entirely different car to drive.

Good luck! I hope to hear it fire up soon.

71Fakes

iTrader: (2)

When looking at the on-engine wiring, I noticed the O2 sensor wiring for the driver's side wouldn't reach all the way back to the O2 sensor location in the headers.

After some quick searches here on LS1Tech, I found that many people swap over to the Corvette O2 sensors which have a longer wiring tail on them, plus a supposedly better heating element.

Since I wanted to get new O2 sensors anyway (really don't know the life of the donor car ones), I went with the Corvette spec ones. Picture is attached for the Bosch part number in case anyone needs it.

71Fakes

iTrader: (2)

I had heard a throttle cable out of a Chevy van would work. But, every time I went to find one (like on RockAuto.com), I would just come up with a DBW setup. Finally, I gave up and just ordered a Lokar throttle cable kit.

Overall, these are nice, they are just really pricey $$$. Since I was a little unsure on the exact length I needed, I opted for the 48" long kit instead of the 36" long one. However, I ended up cutting 16" off the length, and I still have plenty of length leftover.

You only need the 36" long Lokar kit for a Chevelle.

71Fakes

iTrader: (2)

I already had this system installed in my previous setup. Going to this new style PS pump however, made me change the input line. I simply used one for a 1996 Astro Van. It required straightening many of the bends that are in the hose, but it worked.

Also, I always had trouble from the low-pressure return line leaking on the unit. It was a 5/16-24 brass fitting with an elbow. It seemed to be never tight enough...right up to the point I stripped the threads on it.

As it turns out, it is almost impossible to find a 5/16-24 fitting at an ACE hardware, Tractor Supply Company, or your local auto parts store. After wasting a TON of time attempting to find something that would work, I found a seller on eBay selling a steel 5/16-24 to -6AN fitting. Hopefully this is the answer to my problems!

Anyway - hydroboost is now fully installed. Hopefully I won't have any leaks.

71Fakes

iTrader: (2)

I now have almost all of the wiring done on the car (at least what is necessary to get it to run - stuff like backup lights and gauges will come later).

Just in case anyone needed a reference earlier, attached are some pictures of where I put some things.
(1) The relays and fuses are mounted on the fender liner, under the battery. Almost unnoticable once the radiator and everything is in, but handy enough in case I need to troubleshoot.

(2) All of the wiring that needs to go inside the car goes through a hole below the heater core. This was a location I used years ago for my Holley C950 EFI setup, so was just reused.

(3) The ECU is above the glove box. Again, this is where my old Holley setup was. Seemed to work good. A little tighter fit with the GM computer - it really is fairly large!

(4) I made a bracket for under the dash to mount the fuse block and a power distribution. This power distribution is a switched hot for all of the things that need it.

71Fakes

iTrader: (2)

When I took the motor out of the donor car, all of the vacuum lines and PCV lines fell apart in my hands. Looking back at the pictures I took, I was very fuzzy as to how the factory system was run.

Doing some research on PCV routing here on LS1tech, it turns out this is a hot topic. I decided to go with the simple route and eliminate the PCV system - just running an open system. Many people seem to get by with this.

Attached are pictures of how I routed everything, and where I blocked some vacuum ports off. I hope this works. Some of the diagrams I saw were a little confusing.

If anyone has any opinions, feel free to share.
(1) The first picture is of the front passenger's side of the motor. I capped off the vacuum port from the intake itself. I then ran a line from the throttle body to the front of the passenger's side valve cover.

(2) The second picture is where I tied both rear ports on the valve covers together. This seems fairly common to do. These two are then T'd into one line that runs to just below the driveline. This picture is with the hoses raised up for easy access.

(3 & 4) After final assembly, the hoses slide down the back of the engine block and out of sight. I think this will look pretty good overall.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

#1 - The port you are connecting to on the TB is the Fresh air port for the PCV System. You are connecting it to one of the ports on the Valve Cover.. that would be ok for a closed system, but since it is not.. I don't think it would be a good Idea to do this.. since the crank case pressure is pushing (most of the time), you most likely will be getting vapors(and oil) pushing back into the fresh air port.. might not be critical, but would think it might get to be an oil mess in the TB.

#2 - where are you running these tube to ?.. are you just running it down ?.. this could act like the old venturi Vent of the old days.. drawing air from the tubes as the road air passes the tube and draws a vacumn to evacuate vapors out of the crank case. Again.. could be an oily mess...? These tubes on the OEM PCV system would connect to that capped port on the Intake to create a closed PCV System (along with the Fresh air port/tube).

Generally a open system is just that. Open to the air with an oil baffled filter or cap.

just a few thoughts..

BC

71Fakes

iTrader: (2)

bczee,
Thanks for the input. I will do some more digging.