1971 Chevelle -> LS1 + T56
1971 Chevelle -> LS1 + T56 Hello!
I am currently starting an LS conversion on my Chevelle.
This is a car that I purchased with lawn mowing money 6months before I turned 16. My Dad and I spent those 6 months getting it road-worthy. It then did duty as my daily driver all through highschool. Mostly just going to car shows at that time. This whole time, I kept working on it. Basically, I would get paycheck, then buy a part. Get my next paycheck, buy another part. It has been a long process. During this whole time, the car was a stock 350ci, 2bbl carb, TH350 trans, with a 2.73 rear gear...
After I graduted high school, my family and I transfered to Raleigh, NC. I started going to college, and swapped to a beater S10 to help preserve the Chevelle. I got caught up with some people drag racing and autocrossing, and I haven't been the same since.
The focus went from making the car look its best, to making it go faster. A complete suspension rebuild, 4 wheel disc brakes, and a Holley C950 EFI 383 SBC soon followed.
After college, I moved to Nashville, TN. At that time, the car received a 4L80E trans plus a Procharger. The car was a ton of fun, but in the end I hurt the motor when I turned it up to 13+psi boost.
Anyway - with the motor hurt, I was looking at what the next evolution of the car should be. After working with my buddies '99 SS Camaro, I realized an LS motor + 6 speed is where I should be.
I am currently starting an LS conversion on my Chevelle.
This is a car that I purchased with lawn mowing money 6months before I turned 16. My Dad and I spent those 6 months getting it road-worthy. It then did duty as my daily driver all through highschool. Mostly just going to car shows at that time. This whole time, I kept working on it. Basically, I would get paycheck, then buy a part. Get my next paycheck, buy another part. It has been a long process. During this whole time, the car was a stock 350ci, 2bbl carb, TH350 trans, with a 2.73 rear gear...
After I graduted high school, my family and I transfered to Raleigh, NC. I started going to college, and swapped to a beater S10 to help preserve the Chevelle. I got caught up with some people drag racing and autocrossing, and I haven't been the same since.
The focus went from making the car look its best, to making it go faster. A complete suspension rebuild, 4 wheel disc brakes, and a Holley C950 EFI 383 SBC soon followed. After college, I moved to Nashville, TN. At that time, the car received a 4L80E trans plus a Procharger. The car was a ton of fun, but in the end I hurt the motor when I turned it up to 13+psi boost.
Anyway - with the motor hurt, I was looking at what the next evolution of the car should be. After working with my buddies '99 SS Camaro, I realized an LS motor + 6 speed is where I should be.
Here is/was my basic plan:
My buddy was able to purchase his '99 Camaro for ~$3K (not running). Since pull-out packages on eBay were running in the $3K+ range, it seemed to make more sense to purchase a whole car, take the motor and trans, and part out the rest to get some money back.
After months of searching, I finally won a 1998 Camaro Z28 on salvageautosauctions.com. Here is the key information:
Final winning price: $1600
Fees: $600
Shipping (from CA): $1000
Total: $3200 delivered to my door
When the car arrived, it was in a little worse shape that I originally thought. The bumper and front fenders were barely held on, the rear-end was not the original, the body was dented up, the interior was 3 different colors - looks like it came from 3 different cars, seats were torn up, etc...
After a couple tries, the car started (needed a battery) and I was able to drive it for a couple times for a short distance. I didn't drive it farther, as it felt like the rear-end wasn't fully bolted in!
Anyway - the disassembly and eBay listings started!
Eventually I had the whole interior out of the car, most body panels removed, etc. Then, a father and son duo from Alabama drove up and bought the rest of the car off of me.
Final tally:
Money invested in the car: $3200
Total pieces + car sold: $1360
Ebay + Paypal fees: $90
Final value paid for motor, trans, + all related components, accessories, everything: $1900
My buddy was able to purchase his '99 Camaro for ~$3K (not running). Since pull-out packages on eBay were running in the $3K+ range, it seemed to make more sense to purchase a whole car, take the motor and trans, and part out the rest to get some money back.
After months of searching, I finally won a 1998 Camaro Z28 on salvageautosauctions.com. Here is the key information:
Final winning price: $1600
Fees: $600
Shipping (from CA): $1000
Total: $3200 delivered to my door
When the car arrived, it was in a little worse shape that I originally thought. The bumper and front fenders were barely held on, the rear-end was not the original, the body was dented up, the interior was 3 different colors - looks like it came from 3 different cars, seats were torn up, etc...
After a couple tries, the car started (needed a battery) and I was able to drive it for a couple times for a short distance. I didn't drive it farther, as it felt like the rear-end wasn't fully bolted in!
Anyway - the disassembly and eBay listings started!
Eventually I had the whole interior out of the car, most body panels removed, etc. Then, a father and son duo from Alabama drove up and bought the rest of the car off of me.
Final tally:
Money invested in the car: $3200
Total pieces + car sold: $1360
Ebay + Paypal fees: $90
Final value paid for motor, trans, + all related components, accessories, everything: $1900
Here is the motor + trans out of the car and sitting in the garage floor!
My understanding was these LS motors were designed were it was almost impossible for them to leak oil. WRONG - this thing left an oil slick in my driveway. Looks like someone put the oil plug in with an impact at some point in its life...cross threaded of course! But, it also looks like the oil pan gasket was leaking - A LOT.
With this knowledge in hand, plus really not knowing the background on the motor, I have decided it at minimum needs:
- oil pump
- water pump
- ARP rod bolts
- full gasket set - just to be safe
- plug wires & plugs
- timing chain
I figure while it is out, I might as well replace these parts so I don't have to worry about them in the future. I would really like to throw a heads & cam package at it while I am there, but it looks like I will quickly run out of funds. That will just have to wait for later.
My understanding was these LS motors were designed were it was almost impossible for them to leak oil. WRONG - this thing left an oil slick in my driveway. Looks like someone put the oil plug in with an impact at some point in its life...cross threaded of course! But, it also looks like the oil pan gasket was leaking - A LOT.
With this knowledge in hand, plus really not knowing the background on the motor, I have decided it at minimum needs:
- oil pump
- water pump
- ARP rod bolts
- full gasket set - just to be safe
- plug wires & plugs
- timing chain
I figure while it is out, I might as well replace these parts so I don't have to worry about them in the future. I would really like to throw a heads & cam package at it while I am there, but it looks like I will quickly run out of funds. That will just have to wait for later.
As many others have said in the past, this website has been an inspiration, and an invaluable tool for this process. If it wasn't for all of you who have done this swap in the past, I don't think I would have had the guts to attempt it myself.
Based on all of the experiences of others, I have gone ahead and started collecting parts. I am trying to keep a very detailed list, both for my understanding plus for those in the future:
- Kwik Performance AC relocation kit: from LS1tech member, $160
- Motor mount adaptors (standard location + 1" setback): from Dan Nickelson (nickelson2039), $125 for both sets
- Clutch master cylinder mounting plate: from Dan Nickelson, $30
- Aeromotive FPR + aftermarket fuel rails, from LS1tech member, $100
- Harness rework + ECU flash to remove EGR, etc: from Leonard Sparks (ChevyThunder_LS1), $350 for both
- GM SLP high volume oil pump: from ?, $84
- Upper radiator hose (Gates 23184), from CarQuest, $18
- MSD spark plug wires: from LS1tech member, $40
- Fidanza aluminum LS7 flywheel: from LS1tech member, $257
- Roller timing chain: from CarQuest, $47
- water pump: from CarQuest, $80
- AIR and EGR blockoff plates: from LS1tech member, $18
- ARP head bolts: from eBay, $151
Total so far is $1466 in parts.
I decided to go with an LS7 clutch package, those parts will be ordered soon.
Also, based on my first drive in the donor car, I thought the trans needed rebuilt. The rebuild kit will be ordered, probably today.
Based on all of this work and costs, I really wonder sometimes if I should have paid more for the donor car and got one in better shape. Obviously it is too late for me now, but if I did it again, I would look closer at that.
Based on all of the experiences of others, I have gone ahead and started collecting parts. I am trying to keep a very detailed list, both for my understanding plus for those in the future:
- Kwik Performance AC relocation kit: from LS1tech member, $160
- Motor mount adaptors (standard location + 1" setback): from Dan Nickelson (nickelson2039), $125 for both sets
- Clutch master cylinder mounting plate: from Dan Nickelson, $30
- Aeromotive FPR + aftermarket fuel rails, from LS1tech member, $100
- Harness rework + ECU flash to remove EGR, etc: from Leonard Sparks (ChevyThunder_LS1), $350 for both
- GM SLP high volume oil pump: from ?, $84
- Upper radiator hose (Gates 23184), from CarQuest, $18
- MSD spark plug wires: from LS1tech member, $40
- Fidanza aluminum LS7 flywheel: from LS1tech member, $257
- Roller timing chain: from CarQuest, $47
- water pump: from CarQuest, $80
- AIR and EGR blockoff plates: from LS1tech member, $18
- ARP head bolts: from eBay, $151
Total so far is $1466 in parts.
I decided to go with an LS7 clutch package, those parts will be ordered soon.
Also, based on my first drive in the donor car, I thought the trans needed rebuilt. The rebuild kit will be ordered, probably today.
Based on all of this work and costs, I really wonder sometimes if I should have paid more for the donor car and got one in better shape. Obviously it is too late for me now, but if I did it again, I would look closer at that.
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Verdad Gallardo I had the same guy do my harness, very fair prices I think. Or course in hindsight I think I should have just done it myself. Live and learn.
That auction site costs $25 to join. Might be worth it though.
That auction site costs $25 to join. Might be worth it though.
Salvageautosauctions is a an affiliate with CoPart. Perhaps you have seen the CoPart commericals? CoPart is basically a website that takes all the auto-auctions that occur around the country (or some portion thereof) and put them online! Genius idea!
Anyway - you have to be a dealer, etc to bid on CoPart. So, a couple 3rd party groups figured out how to proxy bid for us individuals.
How it works:
- login and create a user ID. For full acess, you have to pay a yearly fee.
- browse and search all cars. Most are salvage in some form, but not all. They have almost all cars you can think of.
- After you find a car you are interested in, you can place a bid. Now, you have to put the maximum you are willing to pay for it.
- The website then contacts their live person at the auction house and has that person proxy bid for you...up to your maximum $ amount. In my example, I put in a $2000 max bid, and it was proxy bid up to $1600.
- If you win, you win. If you are outbid, even by $1, you are outbid.
It worked pretty well for me. Having access to cars all across the country was very helpful. Also, after winning, they help coordinate the shipping.
My original goal was to get a CTS-V or GTO - 400hp. But, those cars went for more money than I had.
Anyway - you have to be a dealer, etc to bid on CoPart. So, a couple 3rd party groups figured out how to proxy bid for us individuals.
How it works:
- login and create a user ID. For full acess, you have to pay a yearly fee.
- browse and search all cars. Most are salvage in some form, but not all. They have almost all cars you can think of.
- After you find a car you are interested in, you can place a bid. Now, you have to put the maximum you are willing to pay for it.
- The website then contacts their live person at the auction house and has that person proxy bid for you...up to your maximum $ amount. In my example, I put in a $2000 max bid, and it was proxy bid up to $1600.
- If you win, you win. If you are outbid, even by $1, you are outbid.
It worked pretty well for me. Having access to cars all across the country was very helpful. Also, after winning, they help coordinate the shipping.
My original goal was to get a CTS-V or GTO - 400hp. But, those cars went for more money than I had.
I just received the harness this past Monday. It looks really good!
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 149
Likes: 35
From: Mt. Prospect, IL
Salvageautosauctions is a an affiliate with CoPart. Perhaps you have seen the CoPart commericals? CoPart is basically a website that takes all the auto-auctions that occur around the country (or some portion thereof) and put them online! Genius idea!
Anyway - you have to be a dealer, etc to bid on CoPart. So, a couple 3rd party groups figured out how to proxy bid for us individuals.
How it works:
- login and create a user ID. For full acess, you have to pay a yearly fee.
- browse and search all cars. Most are salvage in some form, but not all. They have almost all cars you can think of.
- After you find a car you are interested in, you can place a bid. Now, you have to put the maximum you are willing to pay for it.
- The website then contacts their live person at the auction house and has that person proxy bid for you...up to your maximum $ amount. In my example, I put in a $2000 max bid, and it was proxy bid up to $1600.
- If you win, you win. If you are outbid, even by $1, you are outbid.
It worked pretty well for me. Having access to cars all across the country was very helpful. Also, after winning, they help coordinate the shipping.
My original goal was to get a CTS-V or GTO - 400hp. But, those cars went for more money than I had.
Anyway - you have to be a dealer, etc to bid on CoPart. So, a couple 3rd party groups figured out how to proxy bid for us individuals.
How it works:
- login and create a user ID. For full acess, you have to pay a yearly fee.
- browse and search all cars. Most are salvage in some form, but not all. They have almost all cars you can think of.
- After you find a car you are interested in, you can place a bid. Now, you have to put the maximum you are willing to pay for it.
- The website then contacts their live person at the auction house and has that person proxy bid for you...up to your maximum $ amount. In my example, I put in a $2000 max bid, and it was proxy bid up to $1600.
- If you win, you win. If you are outbid, even by $1, you are outbid.
It worked pretty well for me. Having access to cars all across the country was very helpful. Also, after winning, they help coordinate the shipping.
My original goal was to get a CTS-V or GTO - 400hp. But, those cars went for more money than I had.
I'd be interested in seeing how the t56 stuff goes in; I'm close to putting one in myself but would like to see one done in person. Are you having any shop here in town do anything for you or are you doing it all yourself? My plan is to do as much as possible on my own but I really don't feel like screwing with swapping in my new rear control arms. Need to find a reasonable place to get that done.
Nice car and color.. 
. LOL... looks like you have done a great job on research (as compared to many newbies..) !.. You seem to be going in the right direction from what I have read on this thread.
I'll be watch you project.. !
BC
. LOL... looks like you have done a great job on research (as compared to many newbies..) !.. You seem to be going in the right direction from what I have read on this thread.I'll be watch you project.. !
BC
I'd be interested in seeing how the t56 stuff goes in; I'm close to putting one in myself but would like to see one done in person. Are you having any shop here in town do anything for you or are you doing it all yourself? My plan is to do as much as possible on my own but I really don't feel like screwing with swapping in my new rear control arms. Need to find a reasonable place to get that done.
If you want to see the process first-hand, PM me your phone number. I'll try to make sure to let you know when I get there. Also, I would love to see your car in person since you are local. I was thinking of going to the Chick-fil-A cruise-in in Providence Park this Sat. Do you ever go there?
Your build was one that I certainly learned from, thanks!
If you want to see the process first-hand, PM me your phone number. I'll try to make sure to let you know when I get there. Also, I would love to see your car in person since you are local. I was thinking of going to the Chick-fil-A cruise-in in Providence Park this Sat. Do you ever go there?
Never heard of the chikfila thing, but I'm pulling my heads in the morning so doubt I'll have much chance to go for the next couple weeks.
nice car. I love the stance w/ the staggered wheels. good luck with your swap. I have a 500 rwhp h/c/i ls2 with stage 3 t56 I am looking to swap in a 71-72 chevelle. I am looking for a car right now. I have my eye on 2 and hope to be making a purchase in the next few days. I def. will be watching this thread