edge04

iTrader: (9)

Want to see what others are seeing compared to me and see what you think about my temps.

First my car is a 71 Camaro with LS2, TVS2300, Trick Flow heads, Meiziere water pump, dual radiator, 3/4 long tube headers, dual spa fans but one is ECM controlled and the other a manual switch.

I had a 180 t-stat in and it was running 195-205 normal driving and got up 230 in traffic once. So I put in a 160 t-stat with 2 1/8 inch holes drilled in it and this is what I saw today.

Morning 50 degrees out: 180 stop and go driving 0-45 mph. drops to 170-175 around 55 mph and 165-170 at 70 mph for 10+ miles of driving.

Temps raise to 60-65: still highway driving but stop and go. Coolant temps range from 170-190

Temp 70: dead stop to barley rolling BS downtown Chicago traffice . Coolant goes as high as 210.

All of this was without any A/C on. I'm happy it didn't go past 210 but a little concerned with the cooler temps at 55-70 mph....should I be?

My next test will be Friday when outside temps should be the same as today but I will turn the A/C on.

Thanks

Edit: no idea why there is an angry face in front of the titel. lol

andrew69_04

iTrader: (148)

are you running a mechanical gauge and where is the probe located?

Also, these motors are designed to run 200-210 from the factory. There not like the old SBC's that people wanted running 160

edge04

iTrader: (9)

electric gauge located in the back of the passenger head.

That is why I'm a bit concerned with my low readings. I also heard that readings in my location are typically higher (so that would make my readings even lower) and with the blower one would expect higher readings.

maybe I go to a 160 with no holes or 180 with holes??? One thing I haven't tested yet is my old 180 t-stat

Jesus Freak

I've got a 190* t-stat, I run 190-195 at highway speeds in 80* weather and 210-215 in traffic. I pull these temps from the head, so they're a little warmer than from the lower hose.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I have a 180 stat and run in the 180-195 on the streets, a bit lower on the highway. Might go up to 215 with the AC on in traffic. Got my low speed fan coming on at 179 and High at 205 (maybe 210?? I forget).

What temp is the ECM controled fan coming on / off at. ? do you have a low/high speed setup and ECM controled with AC input ?

Yeah.. a factory setting on fan control is realy high, Low fan turn on is around the 223* range and the High is in the low to mid 230* IIRC (correct me guys). the engine are designed to run hot for emission reason 205-225 range would not be out of the norm....

BC

svaras

2007 LY6 with LS3 intake and 42# injectors.
Stock termostat, 19x22 cross flow double pass aluminum rad with Taurus Fan.
210 not matter what I´m doing.
Only time it goes up to 225-230 for a few minutes, is during long step dune climbing.

All what I have read says that 205-210 is a normal temp for this engines.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

I don't think your numbers are anything to worry about. The fact your temps are stable on the high way says you are getting sufficient coolant flow from the WP and sufficient air flow through the radiator.

Sitting in traffic your temps go up in part because my guess your fans aren't moving enough air. I would say because the WP is also idling, but I just noticed you are running an electric pump. From what I have read SPAL fans really don't move as much as as some junk yard pull out.

Make sure you are doing everything you can to get air flow through the radiator at idle. Hopefully you are using a shroud and it is sealed tight to the radiator so air has to go through the radiator and not around the shroud. I would honestly consider adapting a Taurus or set of F body fans to your radiator. If that doesn't work you can always get a bigger radiator.

Changing the thermostat is just going to change the temp it runs at on the highway. Once the T stat is open, it is open. A lower temp Tstat won't keep you from overheating.

Also know that GM sets the temp on stock motors high for emissions reasons. Within reason you will make more power with cooler temps.

FWIW I have an LS2 with aluminum radiator, Taurus fan with only the low speed hooked up and 160° T stat. I run under 175 at cruise. It occasionally creeps up to 190-195 when I come off the highway and drop to parking lot speeds or stop for a light. But it always comes right back down once I start moving again.

edge04

iTrader: (9)

I'm more concerned with the lower readings then the high readings I'm currently getting. I will do some more driving this afternoon with temps close to 80 and see what i get.

Then test with A/C. If I can be close to where I am with A/C on I'll be happy.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Understood about your not being concern on the high.. as They seem to be normal from what I and other have read from you post. And is really expected to be normal for these engines.

Question that was rasied before or should be looked at...is your ECM fan setting synced
up with your T-Stat temp ?.. is there a high/low speed on them ? and as Pop said, maybe you should look into the SPAL fans to see if they are doing the jo for you (FYI, I have duel spals also, but would I think a few more cfm would be better at times.).

There are different model based on size and type of blades.. some will pull more air others.


BC

edge04

iTrader: (9)

I doubt it is synched now because when it was tuned I had the 180 in it. No high low setting, just on or off. zmy dusls are 3100 cfm. I never turned the 2nd on today.

Drive home was about 10 degrees warmer out. Traffic was worse for a longer strecth of road. Highest temp was around 235. And then at 55-75mph it ran at 180.

I am going to see what it does with the a/c load. Again, was tuned without the a/c ever ran.

Then maybe I'll go bak to the 180 t-stat as with it my car never got past 230 but ran at 195 during highway speeds. IDK?!?!

Also, my shroud cover top to bottom but leaves about 3/4 of inch of rad showing on each side. But one fan only covers about 1/2 the rad surface, so maybe I should hook both up to the ecm???

rock-rod

1994 land cruiser
2006 l33 with tune
stock 195 t-stat
stock radiator
DC Control variable speed controller
lincoln continental dual electric fan

I see 197-198 temps cruising at any speed (ac on or off, doesn't matter)
I see 200-202 in traffic with or without a/c

brian at DC control set me straight about not matching the t-stat to the fan trigger settings.

edge04

iTrader: (9)

looks like my one fan is coming on around 195-205 (depends where I shott the temp light at and off around 190.

I think my biggest issue when sitting still in traffic is only running one fan as that only covers half the radiator. I need to run both for better heat transfer.

edge04

iTrader: (9)

didnt get a chance to test it with the a/c running. But, I did drive around in 95 outside temps. Around town driving 195 and 180 highway speeds. So, the 180 t-stat is going back in.

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

Not sure if it matters or not, but the GM dual fans have two settings: low speed and high speed. When the PCM requests low speed, both fans run, but they run wired in series, which cuts the voltage to each fan in half. This results in the fans turning at a lower speed. When the PCM requests high speed, both fans run, but this time they are wired in parallel which allows them to turn at full speed.

If you're going to run both fans, consider setting them up like that. It requires one additional relay, so I am sure GM did it for a reason! Perhaps when they're both running at the same time (on low or high) they pull more air through the radiator, resulting in better cooling during city driving.

oldgoat69

My LQ with Magnacherger runs 195-200 on the thermostat no matter the conditions. I have the primary fan switched to star at 100 to provide airflow for the aftercooler. The second fan shuold come on at 210, I have yet to get that warm even in beach traffic.
Where is your PCM set up to go to closed loop? That would be my biggest concern.
I also second the observation that a lower temp stat will not make the engine run cooler, in my experience it will do just the opposite by not providing a restriction to allow the water to transfer temp in the radiator. Have you looked at varying the water pump speed? As I recall one of the wiring/switch companies makes a variable speed (voltage regulator) to control water pump speed.

edge04

iTrader: (9)

I am using a MEFI pcm so there are not multiple fan settings (at least that I'm aware of). So what I may look into is using a seperate fan ecm like one fron DC control or Spal to control both fans. This would give me all kinds of control. As it is today, my fan connected to my ECM comes on around 180-195, depends where I am shooting the temp gun at. My 2nd fan is on a manual switch. All these temp readings I mention above are with just the ecm fan.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

I think that would allow the running fan to suck air in through the non running fan rather than through the radiator. Or are they completely separate fans/shrouds? At any rate you have an airflow through the radiator issue.

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

This is exactly what I was thinking.

What you can do is make the MEFI PCM fan request the "low" request, which runs both fans on low. Then make the manual coolant temp switch kick both fans onto high speed.

I can draw you a diagram for that - let me know if you're interested.

Or like you said, you could always get the separate fan controller if it has that functionality.

edge04

iTrader: (9)

this is what I am running. So I would think running both at sittiing still, hot conditions would be better??

http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30102130

Yes a diagram would be great, thank you!

bczee

iTrader: (12)

SPAL make a matching Duel Fan Controller, "FAN-PWM-V3, Programmable electric fan controller". I have had the older one fail and upgraded to their lastest one. It controls both low and high speed as needed and is able to set as you want to come on for both Low and High Speed.

BC